New cams in the R, car will not idle.
Assuming these cams are pretty "big", I would think it just needs to be tuned. Im sure your idle a/f is totally off now. Dont go screwing around with TB screws and distributor **** just yet, your only going to complicate things. Sounds like you may just need to add some fuel in the idle area.
Cams with big non VTEC lobes are fun to tune. Bigger cams = less intake manifold vacuum at idle-so instead of the car idling in column 1 or 2, it's now in column 3 or 4. Probably too rich. Crome is not the best software for idle problems, I have seen a few cars with idle issues on Crome. If all else is o.k., you can adjust your throttle stop screw to get more air into the engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crome is not the best software for idle problems</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't matter what fuel management you use, if you put big cams in a motor tuned on small cams, it wont properly. Unless you have a magical EMS that automatically tunes AFR's without a wideband...
Brandon, M24X are not a drop-in cam where you can get it to idle nicely. When I put in these BC5's I'm testing, the motor would barely idle, and when it did, it would bounce all over the place. You really need a wideband and someone with real-time-programming and a laptop on Crome. We got the BC5's to idle perfectly after 2 minutes of tuning.
It doesn't matter what fuel management you use, if you put big cams in a motor tuned on small cams, it wont properly. Unless you have a magical EMS that automatically tunes AFR's without a wideband...
Brandon, M24X are not a drop-in cam where you can get it to idle nicely. When I put in these BC5's I'm testing, the motor would barely idle, and when it did, it would bounce all over the place. You really need a wideband and someone with real-time-programming and a laptop on Crome. We got the BC5's to idle perfectly after 2 minutes of tuning.
damn. you're building a monster setup of my motor.
i got m22xx and ctr pistons and 310cc blah blah
let me know how it goes..
i'd love to see some dyno papers
i got m22xx and ctr pistons and 310cc blah blah
let me know how it goes..
i'd love to see some dyno papers
Try propping the throttle open just a hair, and timing the idle to 21-22 degrees.
This made my Skunk2 Pro2+'d LSVTEC idle like a champ.
This made my Skunk2 Pro2+'d LSVTEC idle like a champ.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try propping the throttle open just a hair, and timing the idle to 21-22 degrees.
This made my Skunk2 Pro2+'d LSVTEC idle like a champ.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i highly doubt that's the most efficient setup though. w/o tuning, it's just a guess-n-check game that can have its consequences. brandon, good luck with your motor issues. any good tuners on the islands?
This made my Skunk2 Pro2+'d LSVTEC idle like a champ.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i highly doubt that's the most efficient setup though. w/o tuning, it's just a guess-n-check game that can have its consequences. brandon, good luck with your motor issues. any good tuners on the islands?
I thought that Rocket includes a burned chip with his valvetrain/cam package for the cams? You obviously already have the chipped ecu, I would contact him.
Big cams are a pain to tune for idle. It took me a little bit of time to get my Skunk pro 1's to idle decently. I leaned it out a lot a idle, but like someone else mentioned, big cams don't make as much vacuum at idle as ITR cams, so your fuel tables will shift. Try taking a lot of fuel out in the first 3 columns and increasing timing at idle. If it helps, I can email a Crome map for my car, and that should get you up and running.
Big cams are a pain to tune for idle. It took me a little bit of time to get my Skunk pro 1's to idle decently. I leaned it out a lot a idle, but like someone else mentioned, big cams don't make as much vacuum at idle as ITR cams, so your fuel tables will shift. Try taking a lot of fuel out in the first 3 columns and increasing timing at idle. If it helps, I can email a Crome map for my car, and that should get you up and running.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cams with big non VTEC lobes are fun to tune. Bigger cams = less intake manifold vacuum at idle-so instead of the car idling in column 1 or 2, it's now in column 3 or 4. .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, your gonna have to retune it to get it to idle properly
Exactly, your gonna have to retune it to get it to idle properly
ask rocket what the valves should be set to.
i was just dealing with a valve adjustment on my toda C's and the car ran like **** till i got them in spec. now it runs better than ever.
then set the dizzy back to 16 degrees
after your sure the valves are set correctly, and timing is back to stock, then tune.
Add some timing and mess with the idle/ECT enrich in Crome, to the people that say crome isnt good for idling, I've always heard it idles better than Uberdata (which is another cheap alternative)
Larger camshafts typically pull less vac. at idle and put you in a different part of the fuel/ignition map as compared to stock cams... Those parts of the map need to be altered in the idle range. Base timing in the map should be 16 degrees and the mechanical timing should be set to 16 as well. You can turn the IACV duty cycle up in Crome which may help.
The cams probably do not degree in at 0,0 and if that is where your gears are set you may be far enough off on cam timing to affect the idle as well. Often times after a dyno session when we mess with cam gear timing the idle part of the map needs to be touched up.
The cams probably do not degree in at 0,0 and if that is where your gears are set you may be far enough off on cam timing to affect the idle as well. Often times after a dyno session when we mess with cam gear timing the idle part of the map needs to be touched up.
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