im not mechanic, but i thought i would have people helping me with this swap, but i started doing things for it, but im having trouble removing the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. there are 3 screws i cant get to on the intake, and i think i have them all for the exhaust, but cant tell. im trying to get people to help me out, but until then, it's just me. any hints for the swap? or if anyone has any pics? (ive seen all of the pics from the "how to's") thanks

(by the way, im putting a z6 head on an 89 crx si)

 

the header is easy to get off. the intake mani has like a litle suport thing on the bottom of it that goes to the block. it will not budge unless you take that thing off,
you're gonna have to jack up the car and get under it, look at the back of the engine you'll see everything you need to do, to get those two off,

 

ya what he said /\

 

i cant get the exhaust off because there's something against the oil pan that restricts it from being pulled forward. any suggestions?

 

the manifold is bolted to a bracket on the back of the engine, its two bolts.
get under the car and you'll see them
take them off and it'll move more freely

 

there should be another suport bracket holding the exhaust mani. to the block

 

yea, ive got those, but there's something against the oil pan restricting it from coming forward

 

bump

 

wtf. there shouldnt be anythin on the oilpan. just look on the manifold and see whats holding it

 

its something on outside of the oilpan. ill try to take a picture of it......

 

http://img431.imageshack.us/my...g.jpg

check that out and let me know if you can tell. if not, ill try to take another picture

 

You need to unbolt the head pipe from the down pipe in front of the oil pan. There should be 3 14mm nuts holding the head pipe to the down pipe plus the afore mentioned block connection infront of the oil pan

unless of course you are trying to remove an aftermarket header?

 

those 3 nuts are pretty rusted. my dad was trying to get them off and he said that either a) they wont come off or b) it'll get snapped off. would i have better luck just trying to drop the whole exhaust to move it out?

 

ok, so here's the update... the exhaust manifold is off of the head, and the head is off of the block. one problem.... the connectors for the different distributors are different. one is square and the other is circular. any ideas?

 

Rewire it homey!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hurleyint1386 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cylinder Position Sensor...
The CPS detects when cylinder #1 is at top dead center to help with proper fuel injector timing.

...For DOHC engines such as the ZC

-Connect the C1 wire to the blue/green wire on the Cylinder Position Sensor (a sensor on the exhaust cam of the ZC).
-Connect the C2 wire to the blue/yellow wire on the CPS.

...For SOHC engines such as the Si

-Connect the C1 wire to the blue/green wire on the CPS (the sensor is inside the Distributor on a SOHC engine). For doing this I suggest swapping out to the proper Si distributor plug so it is all plug and play and looks clean.
-Connect the C2 wire to the blue/yellow wire on the CPS.

Notes
When you do this take my word about doing it right the first time. Try and get all the OEM connectors you can get and solder at all connections and heatshrink. When I had my Integra Injector Resistor box with crimped on butt connectors I noticed my car was more sluggish when it was cold than after I installed my Si resistor box with soldered connections and OEM connectors. Also when you do the wiring for the injector plugs make sure you get a pin with a decent length of wiring coming off, then solder on to that, that will ensure you good connection. I originally tried crimping some wire into a pin but you can't solder it because the space in the plug is too small. I ended up having my car running really shitty on 3 cylinders for a long time until I went back and redid it. Another thing is try and use OEM plugs where possible. Get them off of junkyard cars if needed.

Also remember, wire looms are man's best friend. Here is my wiring without looms... MESSY!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

all taken from here: http://crf50.no-ip.com/fourthgenhatch/mpfi.html

Good luck!

 

use penetraring oil on those exhaust nuts

 

i had some guy come over and take a look at the swap, and he said that the A6 timing belt will work fine. my dad tightened it back up and the guy said that if it wouldnt work, then it wouldnt fit, but it does.

 

anyone? my a6 timing belt fits perfectly around my z6 head. is that ok? ive seen a lot of things about the b7 and z6 not being the same, but are the a6 and z6 the same?

 

I have heard to use the y8 belt and head gasket
Just my 2 cents