I am planning on adding a sunroof to my HF. I have an extra CRX Si Shell that has been sitting around. I was planning to cut the sunroof from the Si and add it onto the HF. What would be the best tool to cut through the metal of the car.

 

Have you though about swapping the entire roof? That seems the best way to do it..

 

that is exactly what i am doing. so i need to know what is the best tool to cut through metal

 

you'll need a drill to drill out the spot welds,,and you have to remove the front winshield and rear hatch..I know that ,but thats all I know about that..

There was a thread a while back about that,,let me see if I can find it,,

Edit-- here it is https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=951331

 

Plasma cutter, it's fun too.

 

A sawzall should do the job.

 

don't cut anything. take out the whole panel by drilling out the spot welds as was mentioned before.

take out the glass and any trim/ headliner. get the car inside on on hard level ground and on jackstands. you don't want anything to move when you start taking things apart. weld braces to the pillars so the car doesn't tweak. drill out the spot welds. place new roof on, and rosette weld the holes. body work n paint, reinstall glass.

the thread with the white hatch that switched to a non- sunroof top was really good, but i can't find it either.

i still think it is a mistake- especially to ADD a sunroof- by that's just me and my messed up priorities.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxrocks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A sawzall should do the job.</TD></TR></TABLE>


<FONT SIZE="3">Did someone say SawZall!!!!!! </FONT>


^Insert Sunroof....voila! All done!

 

your gonna need a drill with a good 1/4" drill bit or spot weld bit, remove glass and grind away all paint/seam sealer from rain tracts and drill out all your welds, use a putty knife and hammer or air chissel if your feeling dangerous and separate the skin from the roof skeloton, be careful to to cut or expletive anything up doing this. don't work about welding braces, nothing is going to move unless you were taking the braces out with the skin but your not, we do tons of roof skins in the shop and have never used braces, everyone has fit like a glove and never leaks. just make sure you prep your metal good before you put the everything together, etch prime before you lay your skin on, lay skin on, weld, etch prime welds, seam seal it real nice, high build prime it and paint it, put your glass in and your ready to go. a roof skin is the easiest skin to replace on a car i think. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by godruler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your gonna need a drill with a good 1/4" drill bit or spot weld bit...[snip]</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've drilled out spot welds before, but i've never used a spot weld bit. i'm getting ready to do some more (and rather important) welds, and i'd like to hear some feedback on

1. where the hell do you buy one? i've looked.
2. differences in design/use? better?
3. any other tips, and perhaps a way to do it without having to go right through the second skin?

 

I bought my spot weld cutter from the local snap-on dealer. It wasn't that expensive i think about $40.00 for the 1/4.
I found it did a much better job. You have to get your centre punch exact centre but it did a nicer job less work on clean up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super79Dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bought my spot weld cutter from the local snap-on dealer. It wasn't that expensive i think about $40.00 for the 1/4.
I found it did a much better job. You have to get your centre punch exact centre but it did a nicer job less work on clean up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you still end up going all the way through both layers of metal? (do i get a hole in the back piece, that i want to keep still?)

 

If used properly,you only cut through one panel which is
preferably the panel being disposed of.

The center point is spring loaded and keeps the outer bit centered:

 

thanks!- that's what i was looking for. it's a lot different than the stuff i was finding from other companies, including snap-on, which were like this one.

 

heres wes v's writweup for it....
http://www.performanceforum.co....html