Quality & reliability of Profab headers
I've got JDM ITR headers on my GS-R right now. I trust them since they are an OEM part.
I'm looking at getting Profab's headers to make some extra power (fuel tuning will be coming soon). I am concerned about quality though. $500 for these headers seems like they have cheaper welds and might be prone to break.
A few people have said "they're good" but I'm looking for more of a long-term outlook. Are these things going to last? I don't want to be replacing headers every other year.
I'm looking at getting Profab's headers to make some extra power (fuel tuning will be coming soon). I am concerned about quality though. $500 for these headers seems like they have cheaper welds and might be prone to break.
A few people have said "they're good" but I'm looking for more of a long-term outlook. Are these things going to last? I don't want to be replacing headers every other year.
we installed 2 pro-fabs and both of them needed alot of work to go in.
basically for you to make these fit with ease, you'll have to take out your rad and install 2 slim fans. Some people say you can get away with one slim fan which is true. but I would do 2 slims fans cause its less of a headache if you do.
also, you'll have to remove some bolts from the flywheel cover plate and and smash in a part of the oil pan so the header doesn't rub.
basically for you to make these fit with ease, you'll have to take out your rad and install 2 slim fans. Some people say you can get away with one slim fan which is true. but I would do 2 slims fans cause its less of a headache if you do.
also, you'll have to remove some bolts from the flywheel cover plate and and smash in a part of the oil pan so the header doesn't rub.
the ceramic coating is iffy. my header is rusting out pretty bad now im going to have to take it out soon and repaint it or something to stop it from rusting.
i had mines for over a year and it held up. even in the crappy winters here.
i had mines for over a year and it held up. even in the crappy winters here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itralex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we installed 2 pro-fabs and both of them needed alot of work to go in.
basically for you to make these fit with ease, you'll have to take out your rad and install 2 slim fans. Some people say you can get away with one slim fan which is true. but I would do 2 slims fans cause its less of a headache if you do.
also, you'll have to remove some bolts from the flywheel cover plate and and smash in a part of the oil pan so the header doesn't rub.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you saying that slim fans is a must? This is for a GS-R, BTW....not sure if fitment is different on other chassis.
basically for you to make these fit with ease, you'll have to take out your rad and install 2 slim fans. Some people say you can get away with one slim fan which is true. but I would do 2 slims fans cause its less of a headache if you do.
also, you'll have to remove some bolts from the flywheel cover plate and and smash in a part of the oil pan so the header doesn't rub.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you saying that slim fans is a must? This is for a GS-R, BTW....not sure if fitment is different on other chassis.
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the same. our newest version of the profab header has ULTIMATE ground clearance. a small ding on the corner of the pan is needed about a 1/8 inch. its difficult to put in but for the money and the quality this header puts out GREAT power. you can retain the stock fans. just as long as you remove them during installation and reinstall afterwards. the radiator fan will need to be trimmed on the shell of the fan shroud. this is also needed with RMF headers etcc.
if you want a header that goes in and performs like stock. go with a DC.
if you want a header thats cost effective and makes great power. by all means. profab is definatley THE WAY to go.
if you want a header that goes in and performs like stock. go with a DC.
if you want a header thats cost effective and makes great power. by all means. profab is definatley THE WAY to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the same. our newest version of the profab header has ULTIMATE ground clearance. a small ding on the corner of the pan is needed about a 1/8 inch. its difficult to put in but for the money and the quality this header puts out GREAT power. you can retain the stock fans. just as long as you remove them during installation and reinstall afterwards. the radiator fan will need to be trimmed on the shell of the fan shroud. this is also needed with RMF headers etcc.
if you want a header that goes in and performs like stock. go with a DC.
if you want a header thats cost effective and makes great power. by all means. profab is definatley THE WAY to go. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a sales pitch if I ever heard one.
I think you should try to make yours last as long as possible and save up for an RMF. They are just all around great quality and designed to make big numbers.
if you want a header that goes in and performs like stock. go with a DC.
if you want a header thats cost effective and makes great power. by all means. profab is definatley THE WAY to go. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a sales pitch if I ever heard one.
I think you should try to make yours last as long as possible and save up for an RMF. They are just all around great quality and designed to make big numbers.


i used a dremel and trimed it. eventually the header melted whatever was needed lmfao.
it will also melt a small part of the splash guard under the car. like a 1 square inch area. nothing big. if you plan to keep ac make sure the lines do not touch the header. mines did and it burned a hole in it. but i dont have ac no more i took it all out.
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