Gsr motor, with JDM ITR ecu comparrison
Hey guys i have a obd2 USDM gsr Motor, and my tuner sugested i barrow this JDM ITR ecu he has to see if it helps any, well i did and the pull of the car feels totally different..
Now i know the stock Gsr Intake Manifold has a secondary butterflies, which on the stock Gsr ecu opens up at 4400, and than vtech hits at 5700ish. its like i have 2 stages of vtec, the car pulls consistantly, pulls a tad harder at 4400, and even a bit more of a pull at 5700ish.... With the Gsr ecu controlling the butterflies, it felt like a constiant pull...
SOOOO with the JDM ITR ecu in the car, the car feels ok from low rpm, but dosent seem to have the exact same pull like the gsr ecu had (partly because i dont think my butterflies are being opened). But once i hit around 5800/6000 rpm's vtec hits like ive never felt before with this ITR ecu....
Ok so im ending with that, the GSR ecu has more low end (butterflies) pull and less of a top end pull, and the ITR ecu has less low end but a much strong top end..
Do you guys think im getting any avantages with this JDM ITR ECU, becides that it dosent have a secondary o2 sensor. is there anyhting i can do about the ITR ecu not controlling the butterflies, like somehow open them up all the time?
or should i ditch it and stick with m stock and save for a P28chipped
Oh and i know a dyno will only give me a true answer but im broke haha
PLEASE HELP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE THANKS H-T!!!!!
Modified by touchmyHONDA at 10:46 AM 3/29/2006
Now i know the stock Gsr Intake Manifold has a secondary butterflies, which on the stock Gsr ecu opens up at 4400, and than vtech hits at 5700ish. its like i have 2 stages of vtec, the car pulls consistantly, pulls a tad harder at 4400, and even a bit more of a pull at 5700ish.... With the Gsr ecu controlling the butterflies, it felt like a constiant pull...
SOOOO with the JDM ITR ecu in the car, the car feels ok from low rpm, but dosent seem to have the exact same pull like the gsr ecu had (partly because i dont think my butterflies are being opened). But once i hit around 5800/6000 rpm's vtec hits like ive never felt before with this ITR ecu....
Ok so im ending with that, the GSR ecu has more low end (butterflies) pull and less of a top end pull, and the ITR ecu has less low end but a much strong top end..
Do you guys think im getting any avantages with this JDM ITR ECU, becides that it dosent have a secondary o2 sensor. is there anyhting i can do about the ITR ecu not controlling the butterflies, like somehow open them up all the time?
or should i ditch it and stick with m stock and save for a P28chipped
Oh and i know a dyno will only give me a true answer but im broke haha
PLEASE HELP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE THANKS H-T!!!!!
Modified by touchmyHONDA at 10:46 AM 3/29/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by touchmyHONDA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and i know a dyno will only give me a true answer but im broke haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well there goes my answer
Do not rely on the butt dyno.
Well there goes my answer
Do not rely on the butt dyno.
It will run rich at WOT.
Also, it does not have IAB control like the P72.
VTEC on a GSR engages at 4400 RPM, not the secondaries.
The secondaries are around 6000 RPM.
Also, it does not have IAB control like the P72.
VTEC on a GSR engages at 4400 RPM, not the secondaries.
The secondaries are around 6000 RPM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will run rich at WOT.
Also, it does not have IAB control like the P72.
VTEC on a GSR engages at 4400 RPM, not the secondaries.
The secondaries are around 6000 RPM.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow thanks man, that helps alot, so with the ITR ecu is the IAB's not oppening at all, or are they always open?
Also, it does not have IAB control like the P72.
VTEC on a GSR engages at 4400 RPM, not the secondaries.
The secondaries are around 6000 RPM.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow thanks man, that helps alot, so with the ITR ecu is the IAB's not oppening at all, or are they always open?
That, I am not sure of, unfortuneately.
Common sense leads me to believe from what you're saying that the IAB's are always staying open.
Common sense leads me to believe from what you're saying that the IAB's are always staying open.
yea im not sure of that either haha, is there a way i can check. is the IAB system closed with the motor is turned off, or open.
either way i can pop the hood and see if its open or closed than turn the car on and see what happends again.... something ghetto like that lol
either way i can pop the hood and see if its open or closed than turn the car on and see what happends again.... something ghetto like that lol
you lose low end AND midrange really...
so yeah, by the time your car hits vtec it feels like it pulls harder.
give it a week, drive around, and pop the gsr ecu back in..
and you'll notice it'll drive better with the gsr ecu.
if you don't have higher lift cams (atleast itr or greater) and a skunk2/blox b intake manifold and what not, don't switch out the ecu.
also, if your "tuner" suggested this mod, i would look for "tuning" elsewhere if possible. and the p28 shipped won't help either because it won't operate the butterflies.
save your money, buy cams/valvetrain, buy an intake manifold, a header with a 2.5 collector, maybe an fpr, and then you can think about tuning. and just get hondata s100 atleast and tune on a dyno.
before tuning just stick to bolt ons.
Modified by EVOL at 8:48 AM 3/29/2006
so yeah, by the time your car hits vtec it feels like it pulls harder.
give it a week, drive around, and pop the gsr ecu back in..
and you'll notice it'll drive better with the gsr ecu.
if you don't have higher lift cams (atleast itr or greater) and a skunk2/blox b intake manifold and what not, don't switch out the ecu.
also, if your "tuner" suggested this mod, i would look for "tuning" elsewhere if possible. and the p28 shipped won't help either because it won't operate the butterflies.
save your money, buy cams/valvetrain, buy an intake manifold, a header with a 2.5 collector, maybe an fpr, and then you can think about tuning. and just get hondata s100 atleast and tune on a dyno.
before tuning just stick to bolt ons.
Modified by EVOL at 8:48 AM 3/29/2006
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you lose low end AND midrange really...
so yeah, by the time your car hits vtec it feels like it pulls harder.
give it a week, drive around, and pop the gsr ecu back in..
and you'll notice it'll drive better with the gsr ecu.
if you don't have higher lift cams (atleast itr or greater) and a skunk2/blox b intake manifold and what not, don't switch out the ecu.
also, if your "tuner" suggested this mod, i would look for "tuning" elsewhere if possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
listen to this guy.
He hits it right on point.
so yeah, by the time your car hits vtec it feels like it pulls harder.
give it a week, drive around, and pop the gsr ecu back in..
and you'll notice it'll drive better with the gsr ecu.
if you don't have higher lift cams (atleast itr or greater) and a skunk2/blox b intake manifold and what not, don't switch out the ecu.
also, if your "tuner" suggested this mod, i would look for "tuning" elsewhere if possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
listen to this guy.
He hits it right on point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you lose low end AND midrange really...
so yeah, by the time your car hits vtec it feels like it pulls harder.
give it a week, drive around, and pop the gsr ecu back in..
and you'll notice it'll drive better with the gsr ecu.
if you don't have higher lift cams (atleast itr or greater) and a skunk2/blox b intake manifold and what not, don't switch out the ecu.
also, if your "tuner" suggested this mod, i would look for "tuning" elsewhere if possible. and the p28 shipped won't help either because it won't operate the butterflies.
save your money, buy cams/valvetrain, buy an intake manifold, a header with a 2.5 collector, maybe an fpr, and then you can think about tuning. and just get hondata s100 atleast and tune on a dyno.
before tuning just stick to bolt ons.
Modified by EVOL at 8:48 AM 3/29/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info and im leaning towards your theory, about because of the loss of low and mid range power, that vtec feels better, but in reality its not...
My tuner knows his stuff we were just trying it out to see if it infact didn't help, plus he needed to barrow my ecu for emission purposes....
im going to the track this weekend, mabye i can do a few runs with the ITR and a few runs with the stock GSR ecu, i should just man up and get some dyno time see exactly where there is loss and where there is gain...
BTW my mods are vibran 4-1 header (2.5 collecter), test pipe, RSR ex mag.... (i know its weaksauce)
so yeah, by the time your car hits vtec it feels like it pulls harder.
give it a week, drive around, and pop the gsr ecu back in..
and you'll notice it'll drive better with the gsr ecu.
if you don't have higher lift cams (atleast itr or greater) and a skunk2/blox b intake manifold and what not, don't switch out the ecu.
also, if your "tuner" suggested this mod, i would look for "tuning" elsewhere if possible. and the p28 shipped won't help either because it won't operate the butterflies.
save your money, buy cams/valvetrain, buy an intake manifold, a header with a 2.5 collector, maybe an fpr, and then you can think about tuning. and just get hondata s100 atleast and tune on a dyno.
before tuning just stick to bolt ons.
Modified by EVOL at 8:48 AM 3/29/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info and im leaning towards your theory, about because of the loss of low and mid range power, that vtec feels better, but in reality its not...
My tuner knows his stuff we were just trying it out to see if it infact didn't help, plus he needed to barrow my ecu for emission purposes....
im going to the track this weekend, mabye i can do a few runs with the ITR and a few runs with the stock GSR ecu, i should just man up and get some dyno time see exactly where there is loss and where there is gain...
BTW my mods are vibran 4-1 header (2.5 collecter), test pipe, RSR ex mag.... (i know its weaksauce)
take off the vacuum hose in the side of the butterflies spacer to open them all time. I test both ecus in my gsr and the p73 give me better results but not before setting the timing etc...
im pretty sure they are open when the car is off.
look at the side of the manifold (drivers side). there is a little "saucer" looking thing. it has a vacuum hose on the top of it. on the bottom of this "saucer" there is a arm. this arm opens and closes the secondaries. im pretty sure when the arm is down they are open and when its up, they are closed. now you can check for yourself.
look at the side of the manifold (drivers side). there is a little "saucer" looking thing. it has a vacuum hose on the top of it. on the bottom of this "saucer" there is a arm. this arm opens and closes the secondaries. im pretty sure when the arm is down they are open and when its up, they are closed. now you can check for yourself.
forget the whole idea....get a obd2 to obd1 conversion harness get a p28 ecu and have it socketed...then you can either tune it or throw the jdm itr program on there but with the p28 you can add IAB controll...so in theory i could use the stock gsr program till the iab's open then from that rpm point on the fuel timing maps make it the type r program...best of both worlds...best idea would just be to have it properly tuned...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtakvtrak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save up for a p28 chipped ecu, at 5500 rpm vtak kicks in for me and it pulls hella hard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
mAd VtAk yo mang sheet... yeah i know p28 chipped is the way for me to go, but this itr ecu is free .99 right now
mAd VtAk yo mang sheet... yeah i know p28 chipped is the way for me to go, but this itr ecu is free .99 right now
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touchmyHONDA
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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