Ok, with all the interest in turbos and ITRs lately (get em Black R) I wanted to start a thread for us ITR guys wanting to know more about the darkside. This should probably be in FI, but i would like to hear some firsthand experience from other ITR folks. I talked to a couple of guys who were extremely helpful, but theres still more i want to know. ok here goes. For guys with direct experience (hopefully not "my dawgs bro's boyz shiiznit is runnin 24psi yo!) with turbos and ITRS

-what kind of output can be expected with a bolt on kit, with stock compression?

-how durable is the C5 under pressure? can NA reliability be had with a turbo?

- HANDLING! this is my only reservation about FI, how is the handling affected? I would only do a turbo if i could still maintain some of the ITRs track prowess, anyone manage to do this? Or does a turbo make the ITR a straightline **** and thats it.

i know these a pretty open ended, but i'm tryin to soak up as much info as possible before i decide what direction to go with my car, hopefully others are interested as well

for the ITR-NC/FL (Ross actually) : boost oWnZ j00!

 

"Or does a turbo make the ITR a straightline **** and thats it."

RatedR-"who likes the term straightline **** just for purposes of beating the C5, Rustang, and Z28 455holes on the highways."

I have no direct experience so I cant comment. But tuning is key...so I hear

 

haha Rob...thanks for thinkin of me.

I'm really no expert on turbos or anything at all for that matter. But what I do know is that any ITR I have ever seen at the lapping days is NA. Come to think of it, the only turbo'd cars there are factory boosted cars, like Supras, WRX and Porsches. There is one turbo'd miata but that's the exception. And anyone who has built their R into a turbo monster on this board is pretty much a drag-only racer (TurboITR and TurboR come to mind). This is only my experience and observation which is probably equal to 1 millionth of the US car nut environment.

 

With a bolt on kit, on a stock motor you can expect on average betweeen 250-275whp
at around 5-6psi. As far as durability, that really depends on what condition the
motor was in to begin with. I have seen some last years, and some last days.
Handling... hahahaha. WELL, you will have tremendous traction problems in a
straight line, what do you think that says about trying to exit a corner?

 

I had a turbo gsr I would take to the track... now that I have a c5 I was planning on going n/a, but it is just too expensive for the power you get... here is my story...

I am by no means a bad *** track guy, I just liked to get out there and have fun..

I loved it (turbo), I liked the way it cornered much better than na, I think the power band is broader and better for track (at least for a novice, you are alway in the power band)...

you will learn to ease into the gas around the apex of a turn and the boost will come on big time during the exit, allowing you to fly out of turns, even if you are in a gear that is a little high... with na the car felt too slow when exiting turns...

in my experiance with equal driver I could blow the doors off nsx's, s2k's, M3's, etc... the nsx or m3 on good tires could definately enter turns much faster, but with the power I had after the turn, and in the straights I had much more of an advantage than they did..

I say turbo I am just curious as you are as to how the C5 will hold up to boost in that atmosphere!

p.s. on the downside, with the crappy fuel management that comes with the drag kit I ended up melting a piston on the track... I was going down the big back straight at tws doing about 140 in 5th gear and I melted a piston... there is just too much load in 5th (at least with overdrive in a gsr tranny) to boost for extended periods, so it kinda depends on how open your track is...

when I tore the motor apart there was not 1 sign of detonation, it had just gotten so hot I melted 1 piston (stock motor) but, this was at 10 psi on a stock motor, with a 50/50 mix of 93 and 103 octane fuel.

I was running 10 psi which was too much boost.

It was hard for me to watch guages (egt, boost) while I was driving at the track.. I think the broken motor could have been avoided if I had seen how hot the egt's were gettng...

I think with a good engine management like hondata or aem, sustained high load boost would be possible



[Modified by Phoenix GSR, 11:38 PM 4/3/2002]

 

great info guys! the tickle of the darkside is getting worse!!!!

 

tr and turbo ... don't do it man, it just wont be the same. The car is very balanced, which you may be compromise if you go turbo. Although I will admit a few lbs of boost would be very fun, if your willing to give up the ballence of the car.

 

thats one issue i'm debating. i'm not 100% sure yet. but i do know for the $$$, turbo has everything else by the *****, number wise that is. like i said, i'm just trying to learn at this point.

 

do it do it do it do it do it do it do it do it do it do it do it do it!

Get yack to tune it and you're all set. Hondata please!

 

I want you to spend your money first ken , then if it goes well, i'll look into it.

 

What about A supercharger? Would a supercharger be better than a turbo? or is it the same thing? My friend wants to supercharge his 1998 ITR.

 

well supercharger causes plenty of spinning as well. At least thru 1st and 2nd gear on a gs-r with 10psi upgrade. But after that its fine...and no problems in turns...i can attest to that. That car is making 216 to the wheels.

There was also a JRSC Civic SI at the Talladega track event last month that ran all day long with no traction or over heating problems.

 

You saying I haven't spent enough$?

Ok, I'll drop a few more G's for your benefit.....

b00st = coming sooner than you think (april fools!)

 

but the potential of the SC is not as great as that of the turbo, according to my records at least

 

The JRSC is great for track days. If you do go turbo, don't get a big a$$ turbo. Go with something fairly small (e.g. T28, less lag) and you should be happy. If you want to go bigger (e.g. T3/T4 Hybrid) and can afford it, get something with a ball bering center section. This will help reduce the turbo lag of the larger turbo. The T3/T4 would be OVERKILL for only 5-7 PSI though.

Like everyone else is saying "Tuning" "Tuning" "Tuning". You'll need to upgrade your whole fuel delivery system (fuel pump, injectors, & FPR) You should also get a Hondata or other ECU system, and have it Dyno tuned by a professional.

That should at least get you started in the right direction. Hope this helps.

Ian

 

just turbo that **** ....hehehe

 

thats what i'm talking about ken


yeah i was definately gonna look into a small *** turbo.

 

for anyone who says you can't turn well in a turbo integra....who says you have to be at full boost in a turn? At PIR whenever I exit the rear straights, I just use about 45% throttle which gives me around 3psi, easily enough to fly through the corner safely, and leaves me right where I want to be...about a 1/4 of a second from full boost. Now although I don't have an R, i have done enough to the suspension that I can out handle the R's during time trials. With that in mind, if you get a turbo, just be careful for the first month or two, it's reaaaly easy to go from 130whp to 200whp/torque in under a second. just gotta modulate the throttle and you will own the road courses.

 

well I would not get too small a turbo or it will be topping out before 8500, but a stright T3 should work well for 5-7 at the track.....

 

i'd assume though a ITR+psssht would need some cooling mods, at the very least m00gen rad cap and thermo, if not a radiator of some sort.

 

trubo is much better than super charger...........turbo would be good if you kept it at low boost and had a boots controler so you could turn the boost to almost nothing when you didnt need it..... and when you do turn it the hell up ...if you keep it in modateration it would be bad as hell,

 

ok, i can dig that. the original idea was to do a low boost setup for reliability's sake. i figured (maybe incorrectly) that a small turbo would be better in low boost situations, ie used more efficiently than a bigger turbo in the same psi range.
someone please correct me.....


rob- who just proved he doesn't know **** about turbos

 

smaller turbo's are good for small boost, but don't forget B series motors flow very well, and a small turbo like a t25 or most t3's will run out of steam around 6k. If you seriously want to be a low boost threat, I'd get something like a T3 super 60, or a small t3/t04b. btw for cooling, what you mentioned above and an oil cooler should be sufficient for low boost at the track.

 

ken,
are you not turbo'd yet?

 

On Stock Internals my Type R put down
322hp and 209lb tq



Of course this was done with a STANDALONE (HONDATA) on STOCK internals.

This pretty much allows me to break off most cars (example : my freinds 2002 Ford Lightning, 2000 C5 Vette etc etc. )