right now i have i/e/dc header/p/no egr and balance shaft belt.

i dynoed 178/151 in 3rd gear and 167/147 in 4th gear, both with 2 step colder plugs, but now i have ngk iridiums.

so heres my question. i wanna get to about 190whp or more. will i get there easier by
1 - tuning with a chipped p28 by crome or uberdata and a good header (rmf or prospeed or something liek that)
or
2 - tuning with a chipped p28 by crome or uberdata, modding the collector on the dc header to 2.5", and crower stage 1 cams.

i dont want to do cams and a nice header because it will cost me a lot. both options are around the same price, so im looking for which is more likely me to get me there, if any.

 

Option #2 FTW

 

option 1) buy a quality part
option 2) invest more in a shitty part

its simple from there, that said, option 1 will make more power anyway

 

anyone else?

 

you'll hit 190 whp with both of those.

i'd personally go option 1 and add the cams later (and go bigger and get some real cams and a new VT).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">option 1) buy a quality part
option 2) invest more in a shitty part

its simple from there, that said, option 1 will make more power anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt really say crower is shitty.

but a nice header would really make more power than stage 1 cams and a shitty header?

dont forget on im stock compression, if that matters at all.

 

i never said crower is shitty, but for 190 whp putting cams in is a waste of time, just bolt an rmf on and tune it

then you have the potential for more power later, and with bigger cams than stage 1 crowers.....

 

so if i go with option one...

heres my next question. is rmf really worth the extra money over the kteller rage header?

 

http://sms-products.com/Headers.html

The good stuff

 

Whether or not it is worth the extra money comes down to personal opinion. If you're going NA (which you are) then it is worth the extra money. Gotta squeeze out the power where you can.

 

cant limit your budget when trying to make power all motor.

 

i think u can if ur setting a limit to what u want. ha

smsp header is too much money, id rather go with the rmf, unless if the kteller is just as good or close.

these are the good ones i kno bout for the prelude -
smsp - 1150
rmf - 800
kteller - 575
prospeed - 900
hytech - 1050

sounds like rmf or kteller is a good idea...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like rmf or kteller is a good idea...</TD></TR></TABLE>
if it's down to those 2, rmf.

 

do a bit of searching, that kteller style is one of randys ANCIENT headers he made a long time ago, and they are still producing, go with a newer rmf peice, they are MUCH better than the old design (kteller)...

the rmf continues to be the best value header at $800

 

damn right

 

p28?? you will loose the secondaries in the intake manifold. use a p72...what about hondata? i have it and love it! people say chrome and what else is free. but is it really? how are you going to burn the chip? how are you going to tune it (software) etc. either will cost you money so dont just think that hondata is expensive.

i say option one. headers are good stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilikehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">p28?? you will loose the secondaries in the intake manifold. use a p72...what about hondata? i have it and love it! people say chrome and what else is free. but is it really? how are you going to burn the chip? how are you going to tune it (software) etc. either will cost you money so dont just think that hondata is expensive.

i say option one. headers are good stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>

it can be modified very easily to support IAB's. Crome itself is free. You can pay ~175 bux to get it tuned.

i spend 424 on my ecu, conversion harness, crome (free), and tuning. Now i have opted to tune it myself and have accumulated the parts to do so. If you dont plan on tuning other peoples cars, you dont need a programmer for the chip. The moates ostrich has a 75 year battery lifetime and you can just leave it hooked up to the ecu....thats what i do atleast. Saves a shitload of time and headache.

 

go RMF.. cams can always wait. Some might disagree, but a header is one of the major parts you want to spend good money on. I dyno'd 187/145 SAE corrected with a RMF header, bone stock.

 

do you happen to have a graph?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9-Stealth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go RMF.. cams can always wait. Some might disagree, but a header is one of the major parts you want to spend good money on. I dyno'd 187/145 SAE corrected with a RMF header, bone stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>

really? obd2? define bone stock please. I've heard a lot of people say bone stock.... oh and nos... lol

 

phearbale.net

actually im not sure if im supposed to pick the ecu or if they do.

either way 175 for the chipped ecu with a basemap.

 

OPTION 2 ALL THE WAY

Don't listen to these people. With the goal of 190whp you have no reason at all to buy a $700-$1200 header. Don't jump onto the super custom header bandwagon, your DC will be not be too much of a bottle neck up to 200whp, more with a collector mod. You already bought the DC so spend money elsewhere.

Personally, I would recommend refreshing the ignition system for your original H22A1 (cap, rotor, wires and plugs etc.).

Type-S cams are more agressive than Crower stage 1s and would be cheaper with OEM reliability. Type-S cams with collector mod and tuning will get you 190+whp easy. Also a good cam will make more power everywhere where a header will usually only enhance the top end.
Just my 2¢, it is of course, your money.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OPTION 2 ALL THE WAY

Don't listen to these people. With the goal of 190whp you have no reason at all to buy a $700-$1200 header. Don't jump onto the super custom header bandwagon, your DC will be not be too much of a bottle neck up to 200whp, more with a collector mod. You already bought the DC so spend money elsewhere.

Personally, I would recommend refreshing the ignition system for your original H22A1 (cap, rotor, wires and plugs etc.).

Type-S cams are more agressive than Crower stage 1s and would be cheaper with OEM reliability. Type-S cams with collector mod and tuning will get you 190+whp easy. Also a good cam will make more power everywhere where a header will usually only enhance the top end.
Just my 2¢, it is of course, your money.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i didnt really spend money on it. the previous owner already had it on there. plus it looks like poop right now because of the rust. or maybe i can sell the dc and get a megan header with a 2.5" collector mod.

where have u seen type s cams for cheaper than crower stage 1's? (the crowers s1 is 500)

i just put in new iridium plugs, replacing my 2 step colder plugs and i already feel a nice difference.

about the header mainly making the most power in top end...thats another issue i have. my internals are stock, so would the header have to go past the stock redline to make the most power? if so, then i would have to change the springs/retainers anyway. thats also why i dont wanna get stage 2's. but the idea of good midrange power is what im looking at...especially since i have the f22 tranny. when i shift, i usually fall outta vtec.

 

Well if you want to be faster then I would spend $500 on a M2F4 transmission instead of cams/header.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if you want to be faster then I would spend $500 on a M2F4 transmission instead of cams/header.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

very good idea....the money i spent shortening up the gears on my transmission went a lot further than it would have on most any other part

and if you are planning on just doing this one set of engine mods and being done with it, then option 2 is the way to go, because, like pirate said, you will have a better low and midrange

but, if you plan on trying to get more hp out of it later, i say go with the rmf for now, and then later you can get some bigger cams in there....