can someone guide me or give me instructions on how to change spark plugs please

 

get spark plugs
gap them
get a 5/8 spark plug socket and extention
remove the wires
done

 

Parts List:
Ratchet
6" Extension
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
4 Gapped Spark Plugs
Anti-Seize(optional)

Twist and pull out the spark plug wires remembering where they were. Take the ratchet, extension, and spark plug socket and stick it into one of the cylinders. Then just unscrew it out. Do it to all 4 cylinders. Now is a good time to inspect your plugs. Putting new ones in is basically the same process. If you have anti-seize just put a small dab on the threads of the spark plugs before putting them in. Stick a spark plug into the socket and put it in the cylinder. You don't want to tighten them too tight, but also not too loose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ruben19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get spark plugs
gap them
get a 5/8 spark plug socket and extention
remove the wires
done</TD></TR></TABLE>


You forgot something, pull out old plugs and install new ones

 

is gaping necessary?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rev2Eight_EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is gaping necessary? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If they don't come pre-gapped, yes.

I'd check the gap just to be sure anyways.

 

most denso's and ngk's come pre-gapped but its always a good thing to double check to make sure they didn't mess one up.

 

gap the at .044
Dont gap iridium or platinum

 

put a little anti seiz on em to for the next time you change them its a little easyer

 

Yeah i just got ngk's and they are pre-gapped.

 

yea good insturctions, check your old ones to see if they are fried

 

I will be doing this, I guess I should do a real write up.

 

go to ur local autoparts store and get a manual or pay some one to do it.

 

You got the idea with these guys. But I can't stress enough how imortant it is to gap them correctly and to apply "anti sieze" to the threads of the new plugs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BEEJAYZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to ur local autoparts store and get a manual or pay some one to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're an idiot . If you aren't gonna help the guy, STFU

 

make sure you dont overtighten them. You will strip out the holes and you dont want that. Use dielectric grease on the threads, or anti-seize compound. Get a spark plug socket, they have a rubber insert that keeps the plug from dropping out of it. Plus normal sockets arent deep enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jack8788 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You got the idea with these guys. But I can't stress enough how imortant it is to gap them correctly and to apply "anti sieze" to the threads of the new plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

anti sieze can also be a bad thing, reduces the ground that it gets through the block.

If you don't have a spark plug socket a standard deep-well and a magnetic pickup works for getting them out. Rubber hose is the safest for putting them back in to finger tight...

If you're removing plugs to inspect, remember that the crush washer has already been crushed and you should use a torque wrench... the "half turn after snug" no longer applies.

 

since we are on the subject...

what are some good recomendations for spark plugs that you can get at the local auto parts store?

are they the same for all honda's or what?

 

NGK's... the cheapies work just as well as the platinum ones on a stock motor. The quad tip platinum $15 a piece foul up a lot quicker and IMO aren't worth the money. The only reason to use more expensive/colder plugs is either high compression or boost...

 

woooo hold on. There should be washers? So would that mean that my engine would be losing compression if i dont have them? Mine didnt when i took my old ones out. Hum...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8000KReV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're an idiot . If you aren't gonna help the guy, STFU</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, yeah, because that comment really helped. I dont think going to a parts store and getting a manual is bad advice. Sounds like he could use one.

20+ posts to explain how to remove and install spark plugs. Amazing. Just amazing.

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadend9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">woooo hold on. There should be washers? So would that mean that my engine would be losing compression if i dont have them? Mine didnt when i took my old ones out. Hum...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Necessary or not isn't really for me to call. All the plugs I've ever installed have had crush washers. It does make for a better seal and it makes them a hell of a lot easier to install (finger tight then 1/2-3/4 turn no tq wrench needed)...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerformula &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
20+ posts to explain how to remove and install spark plugs. Amazing. Just amazing.
K</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd rather see that then 5 pages on "which taillights" "jdm this/that" "CF this/that"

 

when you guys get new plugs do you drop them in the hole? I feel like its just going to hit the electrode and make the gap super small. I have a socket with the rubber in it so i use that to lower it down but ive always wondered this.

 

i want to check the gap on my bkr7e's what gauge do i get a feeler gauge???