http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...2.php has a good guide on how to install a clutch but my question is: what's the torque specs on the flywheel and size of the axle nut?

 

flywheel is 81 ft pounds and 32 mm and 136 ft pounds

 

they said something about a jack under the motor, oil pan i'm guessing, willl this crush my pan? also do i just jack it back up then bolt the tranny afterwards?

 

gotta problem, the control arm wont come out of the hub, the ruber bushing is holding too tight, and also shift linkage pin wont come out. any help?

 

I replaced the clutch in my GSR about 2 weeks ago and my control arm stuck too. I tried to press it out and f**ked up a few threads, then i just hit it with some penetrating oil and let it sit, then i gently hit it w/ a BFH (big f**king hammer) and it came out. Be GENTLE!! I had to rethread the bolt a little anyway so i could afford to be rough.

The shift pin linkage you need to get a punch and centerpunch it out. All you do is get a punch and a hammer and hit it until it pops out the top. When you put it back it, you have to press it in part of the way. I used a hydraulic ram used for pushing wrist pins into new piston/ rod combos.....

Use an engine hoist or something to hold it up...don't jack under the oil pan unless you want to get a new one!

If you have any questions, the install is pretty fresh in my mind....PM me!!

 

the passenger control/hub joint we poped out with a 3 claw clamp and the driver is sorta stripp at an angle so we can't use the clamp, tried bang and bendin it out but don't seem to want to come.

shift linkage pin we hammer in middle with small pin and the hole is spreading, pin not moving.

i'll see if i can get my hands on a hoist, i've been told you don't need one but i've already sent too much on this damn upgrade

 

I dunno if it's easier, But I always just disconnected the upper control arm and popped the axle out from that way.

Just unbolt the linkage from the shifter, it's a lot easier then taking it off the trans.

If you jack the engine on the oil pan, make sure you have a good flat piece of wood on top of the jack, otherwise hold the engine up with a hoist from the top.

 

the way we did it with my civic last time was remove the same c.a/hub joint with a metal bar between, someone steps inbetween and pop it goes. i'll try the penetrating oil.

we have full acess to the passenger axle (Everything out of the way) but how the hell do you get it out of the tranny?

 

Get what out of the trans, the axle?
Try prying on it with a thick screwdriver if thats what you mean,
but ONLY push it by hand when reinstalling it.

 

the axle, so there's nothing holdin it in the tranny? everything else is out of the way in the passenger side.

 

there's a snap ring holding it in the tranny....

 

Since when? there's a type of c-clip over the bitch pin on the linkage, but no pin on the axle.

 

yes i removed the snap pin in the linkage. i'm gonna let the linkage pin and joint below the hub soak in penatraing solution for a day or so and get my hands on an air hammer to hammer it out. so the axles should just slide out of the tranny after hub is detached? i'll try to spray that too.

found auto tranny fluid, no manual fluid. i was told regular weight oil (10 or 5w30)will work but some say something else, mtf? i'll try to get some tomorrow.

 

Budddyy, I said it like 2-3 times, Do Not bother taking the shift linkage off from the trans side.
Unbolt it from the bottom of your shifter and just pull the linkage out along with the trans.

And yes the axles are push in, push out, no type of bolt holding them in other then that 32mm on the hub.

 

You need a punch that matches the outside diameter of the b!tch pin to keep it from spreading, I think the Helms calls for a 8.5mm center punch.

The axles will sometimes get stuck in the hub, what you can do is use a BIG phillips screwdriver and stick it in the little indent on the end of the axle (sticking out through the hub) and pound on the screwdriver w/ a mallet or dead-blow hammer.

To separate the LCA from the knuckle, by and far the easiest way is to just put a jack under the LCA, jack it up, stick a big 1/2" ratchet handle between the knuckle and LCA right directly behind the ball joint, and then let the jack loose. Assuming the shock and spring are still in place, the force of the spring expanding will force the ball joint loose. Works for me every time and is very easy. No excessive human force needed.