HI,

This is my first import car I have ever owned so I really don't know much about the technical aspects of it. Any help or advice would be greatfully appreciated by anyone. If this posted in the wrong section, please correct it, move and let me know so I know not to post in this area ever again.

I just picked up a 1990 4dr Integra and it has a B18C engine swap done along with a Drag Turbo Kit. Somethings don't seem to be matching up with the swap which was done and or the work which was done on the car. According to the person who I bought the car from, they said they took it to a shop who did all the work for him. All he did was drop off the car, pay the money and pick up the car after it was all done and finished.

Personally, I think the work was done wrong but then again, I my self could be wrong as well. So I come to you guys who have the knowledge for help and advice.

On the block it self, it says B18C and I have pictures of it incase its needed. From looking at the disterbutor that is on the car, it does not look like a B18C Type R disterbutor. What did they use? I honestly could not answer that, I have pictures of it incase anyone needs to see it to help me out with that.

Looking at the hanress side along with the wiring job which was done. On the ECU it self it says and its hand written with a marker B16A(e) and the sticker on the ECU says PR3 which I believe is a OBD0? Or am I wrong with that?

Looking at the connectors on the ECU and the harness, it has (1) big WHITE plug, along with (2) smaller BLACK plugs. According to what I have been told by the person who I bought this car from they said they also ran 1 single wire from the ECU to the vtec soleniod for it to open and close? Does that sound right? Also, from the looks of it the factory wiring harness has been used on the car as well even with the engine swap.

Either way, now onto the problems which I am having with the car. At 7 PSI of boost it only dynoed 214 WHP not 100% sure on the TQ since I don't have the paper in front of me. At higher RPMs you can feel the car is dying out, not making anymore power. Also, it seems like its pulling back a lot of timing. Car feels like its totally dying out on the top end.

I would like to get all this wiring and ECU issue fixed and solved before I go on with the car and change things around.

Can someone tell me if the wiring has been done correctly or not? If it has not been done correctly, what changes need to take place so its done the right way? Do I need to change the disterbutor on the car and swap it to a Type R one?

More or less what I am trying to do is this, I want to get everything fixed, so I can run a Hondata S300 computer in the car. From what I have been told by Hondata, I need to convert the OBD0 to an OBD1? If so, what all do I need to do to pull off this conversion?

I already have a fully built lower compression bottom end from Golden Eagle sitting here waiting to be swapped out with the stock stuff that's on the car now, but with out getting all these problems fixed I don't want to risk the new short block which I have.

If you guys need me to post pictures, please let me know and I will be more than happy to post the pictures.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in Advance!!!!

 

dude. you have an obd0 computer which does not do vtec. that is why you aren't getting power at higher rpm's. no vtec to open the secondary valves. (in case you aren't familiar with vtec, look at your torque spec from the dyno run. i'm sure it is high in low rpms then falls flat on its face)
you need to convert to obd1 and REALLY have vtec. p74 or p75 computer is what i beleive you need. not sure tho. basically, the kid tried a vtec engine swap on a non vtec computer system. can't give you much more for the specifics cuz i am obviously not looking at the car right now... good luck bro

 

check out the engine swap guide on http://www.g2ic.com for everything related to the swap...

the pr3 is an obd0 vtec ecu which was wired into the stock harness, which is ok..

you might want to look into a skunk2 or aebs manifold to get rid of the secondaries in the gsr manifold and convert to obd1, use a chipped ecu tuned w/ chrome or neptune or something of that nature..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1DA94u2NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude. you have an obd0 computer which does not do vtec. that is why you aren't getting power at higher rpm's. no vtec to open the secondary valves. (in case you aren't familiar with vtec, look at your torque spec from the dyno run. i'm sure it is high in low rpms then falls flat on its face)
you need to convert to obd1 and REALLY have vtec. p74 or p75 computer is what i beleive you need. not sure tho. basically, the kid tried a vtec engine swap on a non vtec computer system. can't give you much more for the specifics cuz i am obviously not looking at the car right now... good luck bro</TD></TR></TABLE>

This guy is a joke, don't listen to him. I think it is too late, he already made us dumber.

Anyway, looks like your wiring is fine. If you are loosing top end, there could be numerous things wrong.

1. low oil-vtec shorting out
2. bad distributor (possibly rotor and cap)
3. short in the wiring
4. clogged cat. convertor

When you are driving, does it seem like vtec is disengaging or shorting out.
Not sure if this will help.

 

my bad.. missed the part about the vtec getting wired up. i thought for some reason they were trying to run vtec system with a stock obd0 pr3 computer and nothing going to the solenoid.. it didnt make any sense to me why someone would do that. anyways.. if its the obd0 dizzy i know I had problems with the bearing in them from my experience with them. it creates a serious drivability issue when getting on the throttle. check that first because its really easy to fix. also check voltage drops across the solenoid with a voltmeter once vtec engages. just dont create any fly-back voltage to the ecm or you will let the smoke out of it. sorry i sent you in the complete wrong direction before. if you can get to a honda dealer you can have them hook up a 5gas analyzer to it. it will indicate rich, lean or other conditions and make it easier to pinpoint the problem if none of these other solutions listed on this thread help.

 

Today, we are going to run a leak down test on the engine to see if I have other issues which I dont know about. I am also going to be looking at the HEAD and the INTAKE Manifold to get the casting numbers to find out what engine it really is.

Now, to switch to an OBD1 what ECU will I need? Off what car, what year and what code off the ECU? All else I will need is the actual harness adaptor correct? As far as the cat being a problem, well the car has no car, its a streight pipe. Now about the distributor...... which kind am I suppose to be running on the engine?

I will post more info later on tonight once I get the info which is needed.

Oh yeah, and thanks for the link which you provided.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dutch-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This guy is a joke, don't listen to him. I think it is too late, he already made us dumber.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol yeah, and someone left the screendoor closed..

If you have gsr cams and Still a gsr im, you'd probably want to try and find a 94-95 (gsr)ecu,
and the same for the distributor, it doesn't have to be a "type-r"

 

you will be able to tell if its a gsr by the casting on the head

it sounds like the guy slapped a turbo kit on a basically stock motor and a stock ecu

your car is probably not getting enough fuel in the high end due to the boost, you NEED to get the car tuned as soon as possible

as for the ecu IT IS A OBD0 VTEC ecu, if you want to you can get a jumper harness, or get the PR3 socketed and get someone to tune a burn a custom chip for your motor

as for the Dizzy it should be fne, it is an obd0 distributor and i would keep it because an ITR or OBD1 gsr one will not correctly plug inthe the wire harness

For the wiring it sounds right, just make sure the wires are running to the right pins in the ECU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdc2lsVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will be able to tell if its a gsr by the casting on the head</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is the casting number for the GSR head and what is the casting number for the type r head?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdc2lsVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it sounds like the guy slapped a turbo kit on a basically stock motor and a stock ecu </TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock ECU part may be VERY true, as far as the Drag Turbo Kit, I know from pulling it apart that larger injectors were installed. Also an intank fuel pump was installed along with a vortech FMU.

As far as the whole ECU and distributor issue / questions.... I want to do something so I will be able to run the Hondata S300 system on the car.

Can someone point me in the right direction of what needs to be done with the wiring / ecu / distributor so the car can run a Hondata please?

Thanks again for all the help and info.

 

a GSR motor will have a P72 casting stamp, and itr will have a PR3 casting on the head

to run hondata 300 you would have to get a conversion harness so that the Hondata ecu will plug in, i believe you do not have to do anything to the distributor to run the hondata system

 

Alright people, again thanks to the people who have helped me out so far.

I just looked everything over here is what I have. So someone please fill me in and let me know exactly what I have.

Block
B18C
2103371 (stampped right under the B18C stamp)

Distributor
TD-23U
9X03 (stampped right undere the TD-23U)

Distributor Cap
MSD
PN: 8290

Head
PR3-3

Intake Manifold
P73

MSD Coil
PN: 8207

MSD Box
PN: 6200

MSD Wriees
PN: Sorry could not find the part numbers.

Transmission
YS1-1024729


If anyone can shed some light it would be great. Also, now that you guys know the parts that are on the car, any help and advice would be great as well.

Thanks a million in advance.

 

It is an itr motor, I would make sure to get it tuned and you will be all good to go

 

Okay, so looks like I have Type R Stuff, is it US version or JDM Version?

Now the Distributor, do I need to change anything to a different one or the one I have on the car will be fine for what I want to do?

Do I still need to change my intake manifold and TB or will the stock stuff be good enough? If you think I should change it, what should I buy? What brand what style?

Remember, car is going to be setup so it runs a Hondata S300.

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dutch-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This guy is a joke, don't listen to him. I think it is too late, he already made us dumber.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the new signature material.

 

you have the JDM version, if the dizzy is working properly right now it will be fine

the stock IM and TB will do the job just fine, if you want to upgrade you can, that part is up to you