for a bigger pic go here:
http://www.superhonda.com/phot...89283

isnt it supposed to be pretty straight? right after it hits the peak it dies out pretty quickly. this dyno was done a long time ago (last summer) btw. does my f22 tranny have anything to do with it?

 

looks broken

 

Looks like a typical stock or near stock H22 tbh. The enlarged view of tq scale (just 155-105 compared to the 200-40 hp scale) makes the iab/vtec jump up and the usual fall past 6000 look bigger, that's all.

 

It looks like it lost the signal for a split second, then picked up after VTEC. The scale for the torque curve is alot smaller, so any changes will look more dramatic on the graph.

Other than that, looks like a healthy motor. Your A/F's look spot on.

 

u mean my car or the dyno is broken?

so is that torque curve typical? arent they supposed to be pretty flat for the best acceleration? also the a/f ratio isnt the orange line, its the curvey line. i should be getting a chipped ecu with a basemap for my car sometime soon. would the basemap be enough or do u think i need to tune it further?




Modified by 95hprelude at 2:52 PM 3/22/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u mean my car or the dyno is broken?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dyno's rpm pickup probably lost the signal for a split second.

That torque curve might look like it's all over the place, but the difference between the lowest point (4800 rpm) and the highest point (5200) is only about 20ft/lbs. But factor in your IAB's opening and VTEC engagment, it's not that far off from most H22a dynos.

 

i wasnt really talkin bout the dip right before vtec, i was talkin bout the drop after vtec and so on. does tuning have anything to do with this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wasnt really talkin bout the dip right before vtec, i was talkin bout the drop after vtec and so on. does tuning have anything to do with this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's more of an indication of a stock or near stock setup limiting airflow than anything else. A biger header and biger cams will definitely allow you to carry more power up high. Tuning never hurts though.

But you do have a pretty typical dyno result for a stockish H22. Making tq at 7000+ just isn't in the cards with stock bits.

 

Looks like your engine might be misfiring, or your plugs not sparking properly or something.

Edit -- Speaking about your red (stock i assume) curves.

 

looks like pretty decent numbers for stock man

 

well im not really stock.

the misfiring u are talking about is prbly my occassional hesistation.

my mods (that count):
h22a1
f22 tranny
i/e/h/p
no egr and balance shaft belt
walbro fuel pump
2 step colder plugs

actually the difference between the 2 runs is that the 167 was in 4th gear, and the 178 was in 3rd gear. i might have gotten higher numbers in 4th if i did another run in it, but i only did 2 all motor runs that day. also i didnt kno that it was supposed to be done in 4th gear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im not really stock.

the misfiring u are talking about is prbly my occassional hesistation.

my mods (that count):
h22a1
f22 tranny
i/e/h/p
no egr and balance shaft belt
walbro fuel pump
2 step colder plugs

actually the difference between the 2 runs is that the 167 was in 4th gear, and the 178 was in 3rd gear. i might have gotten higher numbers in 4th if i did another run in it, but i only did 2 all motor runs that day. also i didnt kno that it was supposed to be done in 4th gear
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i see no turbo in your mod list but i do see 2 steps colder plugs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i see no turbo in your mod list but i do see 2 steps colder plugs </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nitrous.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nitrous. </TD></TR></TABLE>

but the run was made N/A. if i were gonna do a nitrous car i would only swap in the nitrous plugs when i'm gonna use the nitrous. not get tuned N/A with plugs that weren't meant to be run n/a.

 

there was no tuning done. i dont even have anything to tune my car with ha.

anyway, that day that i did the dyno, i did 4 runs, 2 all motor and 2 with nitrous. the dyno u see if of the all motor run. if u want to see my nitrous run, it's here:

http://www.superhonda.com/phot...5.jpg

all motor numbers + 50 shot - bottle heater = small gain of 25 whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all motor numbers + 50 shot - bottle heater = small gain of 25 whp </TD></TR></TABLE>

25whp?! Looking at the a/f's, you were pig rich! Looks like you need an AFC or some other type of tuning tool to get it right. Is that a dry kit, or a wet kit? Try leaning it by going with a smaller fuel jet (wet kit), or larger bypass jet to lower the fuel pressure (dry kit).

 

i have a nitrous express stage 1 wet kit, jetted for a 50 shot.

im actually just removing the system soon and selling it, because i havent really even been using it that much.