I blew a shock (the front pass. side) and it was a crappy tokico blue shock that I pounded into submission during auto-x events and it took a **** and is leaking oil all over. I've got tanabe lowering springs that are stiffer than stock so I'd like to control the rebound with an adjustable shock and have read great things about the koni yellows. But due to my financial status (college student) I have little cash to deal with and I figure if a don't eat lunch for a few weeks I could afford yellows for just the front of my car.
My questoion is if this combo of good non-blown tokico blues in the back and adjustable koni yellows up front would be fine for daily driving and the occasional auto-x? I was thinking since there is more weight over the front wheels the adjustablity would be benificial

Also is there a difference between regular koni sport dampers and nuspeed koni sp3 dampers? Also I have tanabe DF210 lowering springs and could I use the bottom perch due to the mild drop (45mm in front and 40 in back) of the springs or wouldthis be too low? And could I just leave the shocks on the car and use a spring conpressor to compress the spring and change the perch height if it was too low instead of taking the entire thing off?

Also are there any bushings in the top caps that I should replace while I have the shocks off?

Also what are good dust boots to use with the konis, if any at all?

 

Although not ideal, the Sports on front and otehr functioning rear shocks for a reasonable time until you can alfford the Konis all around won't be a problem. Idally you'd rather have a matching set with similar design theory and adjustment as a matching set but doing it in budgetary steps should be okay if you realize that it isn't optimal.

The shock valving is the same between teh sports and the SP3s, only the droop limiting rebound stop and optional spring perch locations change. It would not be suggested to lower the car using both the lowering springs and the lowering perches togeher as you will have acumulative lowering effect and the car is likely to be undersprung for the new height. If you do it, make sure that you have plenty of bump rubber available to reduce the risks of bottoming and don't complain if the car hits the bump rubbers a fair amount.

 

so buying the sp3's would be a waste since I have lowering springs? Do the sp3's offer an additional notch along with the stock ones or are they completely different from the stock locations, any one have pics describing this?