Low, rough engine idle
Hello,
Hopefully I can get some help on what to do. I have a 92 Accord. I just recently replaced the spark plugs and did a coolant flush. My car has unusual low idle, especially in drive, with brakes on. Idle is rough as well. In short trips (3-5 miles)
there is a tendency for engine temp guage to rise significantly during alot of slow movement, in a drive-thru, or slow traffic. I am assuming I need a new fuel filter?
Can anyone help me out?
Thanks -Aaron
Hopefully I can get some help on what to do. I have a 92 Accord. I just recently replaced the spark plugs and did a coolant flush. My car has unusual low idle, especially in drive, with brakes on. Idle is rough as well. In short trips (3-5 miles)
there is a tendency for engine temp guage to rise significantly during alot of slow movement, in a drive-thru, or slow traffic. I am assuming I need a new fuel filter?
Can anyone help me out?
Thanks -Aaron
hey-
the engine idle run under 1000 rpm, halfway between 1 and 0. On cold starts.
Warms up--is almost about 1000 rpm on avg. The spark plugs i put in are Autolite, the item # crossreferenced to the original NGK, spaced at .04, also seems there is a rich exhaust fume at times, but no smoke. maybe bad unleaded.?
the engine idle run under 1000 rpm, halfway between 1 and 0. On cold starts.
Warms up--is almost about 1000 rpm on avg. The spark plugs i put in are Autolite, the item # crossreferenced to the original NGK, spaced at .04, also seems there is a rich exhaust fume at times, but no smoke. maybe bad unleaded.?
Hondas don't like autolites. They are very picky about their ignition components. You need to pur NGK plugs in there to start with. Your car should idle about 700RPM. Your idle sounds pretty close to right. It should start cold and run about 1200 rpm and gradually drop to about 700rpm as it warms up and should idle about the same in gear with the brake on.
It also seems like you have a dead cooling fan or they may not be working at all. Easy way to check is to turn the key to "on" and the turn the a/c on. look to see if both fans are going. (if you have working a/c)
be sure the coolant is full and that you have a good thermostat.
be sure the coolant is full and that you have a good thermostat.
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ok-- i learned my autolite lesson. heh. i shall get the NGKs. As far as the a/c cooling fan goes...I did use the a/c last month, and it worked ok, but i havent physically looked at the a/c fan while on, I will do that tomorrow. OH...is using fuel treatment recommended? Specifically i got some GUMOUT fuel injector cleaning additive. thanks for the helpful insight so far.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS_92EX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes- took out drain bolt under radiator. let completely drain then flushed with water for 5-6 min. used 50/50 mix coolant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
BLKFLSH was referring to something else. Before you flushed your radiator, did you have any issues of the temp gauge rising while sitting in traffic? If it was fine before, then most likely you need to bleed the coolant system. This is not the same as a flush. This process simply allows trapped air to escape.
BLKFLSH was referring to something else. Before you flushed your radiator, did you have any issues of the temp gauge rising while sitting in traffic? If it was fine before, then most likely you need to bleed the coolant system. This is not the same as a flush. This process simply allows trapped air to escape.
Yes, the engine temp was doing the same before the radiator coolant was changed.
It does not go into red, but rises higher than normal. My engine does not currently have a thermostat FYI. Maybe thats the answer. ha.
It does not go into red, but rises higher than normal. My engine does not currently have a thermostat FYI. Maybe thats the answer. ha.
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