ok... i have a problem.

the ball joint on the knuckle (under the axel nut area) keeps spinning as i try to turn it. i need some advice. i do not want to change it but it kind of looks stripped.

 

Use an impact gun. If you don't have one go to a shop that does and ask them to do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use an impact gun. If you don't have one go to a shop that does and ask them to do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

bolts kinda stripped... cannot even get it to thread on too much. have an impact driver and an air impact gun.

 

So the nut is stripped or the ball joint itself is? And you're trying to put it on? I saw that happen to a kid here, he tried to use the air gun to put the nut on without starting the threads, and stripped it... he had to replace the ball joint.

 

a new castle nut from honda does wonders.

or tap the old nut. the nut got stretched after being used and is causing the friction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a new castle nut from honda does wonders.

or tap the old nut. the nut got stretched after being used and is causing the friction.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't think that is the problem... i have 3 different nuts.. all pretty much brand new. lol

 

well if the balljoint is stripped, then use a die to chase the threads on the balljoint...

ive had to do that before to salvage a balljoint too. just use a vice grip to keep the balljoint steady around the tapered surface and file any gouge marks after.

or just use an impact wrench...

whats "pretty much brand new" mean? unused or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if the balljoint is stripped, then use a die to chase the threads on the balljoint...

ive had to do that before to salvage a balljoint too. just use a vice grip to keep the balljoint steady around the tapered surface and file any gouge marks after.

or just use an impact wrench...

whats "pretty much brand new" mean? unused or not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not new... used. so i'm guessing it isn't brand new. i'll get a couple of them from honda. and die in particular i should use?

 

I've done this before. I had to limp my car to the mechanic & have two new balljoints put in. Now I know to treat balljoint studs & castle nuts like gold.

I have heard that you can cut a notch in the end of the balljoint stud with a dremel & use a flat-head screwdriver to hold the stud steady while you thread the castle nut on. Just be careful not to cut too deep. If it goes into the cotter-pin hole, that would be bad...

It may also help to support the LCA with your jack while a friend puts all his weight on the knuckle. It may press hard enough on the taper of your stud to keep it from spinning while you tighten the nut (mabey not). I've also tried putting the wheel on & standing on the lip of the rim for added leverage...

 

is there a special tool for removal? i'm try all these methods...

 

well then like i said, NEW castle nuts helps.

the lower balljoint is 12x1.25mm thread. kind of hard to find, but it helps to rethread it if needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well then like i said, NEW castle nuts helps.

the lower balljoint is 12x1.25mm thread. kind of hard to find, but it helps to rethread it if needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah dude... plan on getting new nuts and dremmel that **** with a wire brush tip. that balljoint is 50$ from the stealership.

any other advice methods?

 

Market price for a new ball-joint is $25-30. Don't pay more than that. I went to Ted Weins Firestone & they wanted $60 for the labor and $120 for the part. I laughed at them & drove to pep boys where I bought the ball-joint for $22 and had Firestone install if for $60. Good overall deal, but bad overall service. I won't be going back there...

You can replace ball-joints yourself, but it's pretty involved. There is a special ratchet operated press tool you can rent (if you can find it), but you still have to disconnect the axle from the hub since the axle is in the way. That means you must purchase a new axle nut too.

If you can't find the tool for rent, you have to completely remove your knuckles & bring them to a machine shop for pressing...

You may also need snap-ring pliers since some ball-joints have a snap-ring retainer...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Market price for a new ball-joint is $25-30. Don't pay more than that. I went to Ted Weins Firestone & they wanted $60 for the labor and $120 for the part. I laughed at them & drove to pep boys where I bought the ball-joint for $22 and had Firestone install if for $60. Good overall deal, but bad overall service. I won't be going back there...

You can replace ball-joints yourself, but it's pretty involved. There is a special ratchet operated press tool you can rent (if you can find it), but you still have to disconnect the axle from the hub since the axle is in the way. That means you must purchase a new axle nut too.

If you can't find the tool for rent, you have to completely remove your knuckles & bring them to a machine shop for pressing...

You may also need snap-ring pliers since some ball-joints have a snap-ring retainer...</TD></TR></TABLE>

lOl...i rather jsut try to get the nut in for now. that seems like a long process.

 

Try throwing a C-clamp over the whole thing to get enough friction between the balljoint and the lca so it doesnt spin. It worked for me but you probably still wont be able to get it without an impact gun.. Still, its worth a shot. See if you can get a hold of an electric impact if you don't have air. Good luck.

 

i usually stick a jack under the lca and jack it up then tighten it if they tend to spin.
but if they are messed up you can try a die and fix the threads. the machine shop here at napa charges 15 bucks to press the old ball joint out and new one in.

 

For added grip, try having a friend push downward on the brake assembly while the LCA is supported by your jack. This has helped me with rough lower ball joint threads on a couple occasions...