Wheel Hop
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From: Long Island
I have some wheel hop I am looking to get rid of. From my understanding wheel hop is the flexing of the LCA and then it snapping back.
Some times i THINK i notice when turning full lock left something feels like it moves in the passenger side suspension. I jacked my car up and nothing seems loose. I wiggled the wheels as hard as i could in all directions and didnt notice anything.
My alignment is WAY off. Will an alignment fix the wheel hop?
Should I replace the bushings in the LCA's?
I dont want to get an alignment, still have the problem, then need to replace the bushings, only to need another alignment.
Could it be engine mount bushings?
Any help would be great. Thanks!
Some times i THINK i notice when turning full lock left something feels like it moves in the passenger side suspension. I jacked my car up and nothing seems loose. I wiggled the wheels as hard as i could in all directions and didnt notice anything.
My alignment is WAY off. Will an alignment fix the wheel hop?
Should I replace the bushings in the LCA's?
I dont want to get an alignment, still have the problem, then need to replace the bushings, only to need another alignment.
Could it be engine mount bushings?
Any help would be great. Thanks!
It's not really the LCAs that are bending, it's the bushings that flex & then bounce back. A rubber bushing can be pretty springy when subject to considerable force.
If your alignment is bad, you could easily get wheel-hop because the tires are trying to pull the vehicle in different directions.
The alignment should be the first thing you fix, UNLESS you definently spot some bad bushings. If you replace bushings after your alignment, you will ruin the alignment you just paid for.
Some shops offer an alignment guarantee for a certain amount of time (usually costs more). If thats the case, you can replace bushings & then go back & get the alignment reset...
If your alignment is bad, you could easily get wheel-hop because the tires are trying to pull the vehicle in different directions.
The alignment should be the first thing you fix, UNLESS you definently spot some bad bushings. If you replace bushings after your alignment, you will ruin the alignment you just paid for.
Some shops offer an alignment guarantee for a certain amount of time (usually costs more). If thats the case, you can replace bushings & then go back & get the alignment reset...
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Long Island
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The alignment should be the first thing you fix, UNLESS you definently spot some bad bushings. If you replace bushings after your alignment, you will ruin the alignment you just paid for. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Will do on the alignment
. I jacked up the car and took off the tires and looked all around. I dont see anything wrong with the bushings but i dont know exactly what i am looking for.
The alignment should be the first thing you fix, UNLESS you definently spot some bad bushings. If you replace bushings after your alignment, you will ruin the alignment you just paid for. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Will do on the alignment
. I jacked up the car and took off the tires and looked all around. I dont see anything wrong with the bushings but i dont know exactly what i am looking for.
The bushings might not be bad at all. It's just that they are designed for a passenger vehicle will very little power & torque.
I would recomend an alignment first. If that doesn't help enough, then try replacing your stock compliance bushings (#7 in picture below) with polyurethane. This is the bushing that is responsible for LCA movement on the EG, DC & EK chassis. I have heard that just replacing those two bushings can seriously reduce wheel hop...
Your lucky with your EK since the rubber bushing is it's own piece. On the EG/DC the rubber is built into the metal bracket that surrounds it...
If that doesn't solve your problem, then you may want to look at some of the more expensive traction bar setups...
I would recomend an alignment first. If that doesn't help enough, then try replacing your stock compliance bushings (#7 in picture below) with polyurethane. This is the bushing that is responsible for LCA movement on the EG, DC & EK chassis. I have heard that just replacing those two bushings can seriously reduce wheel hop...
Your lucky with your EK since the rubber bushing is it's own piece. On the EG/DC the rubber is built into the metal bracket that surrounds it...

If that doesn't solve your problem, then you may want to look at some of the more expensive traction bar setups...
Defintely take a closer look at the engine mounts. On my DC2R, the rear mount had a tear in it and they others showed lots of wear (cracking). Allowed considerable drivetrain slop and wheelhop on occasion. Upgraded the motor mounts and the wheel hop went away.
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Another +1 for engine mounts as the porblem. My car has every poly bushing beisdes the motor mounts & illuminas/coilovers. They helped my severe non-turbo wheel (its just pathetic), but I can feel the motor bouncing around now. Now that I got the beater moving, I plan on filling them/replacing them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Defintely take a closer look at the engine mounts. On my DC2R, the rear mount had a tear in it and they others showed lots of wear (cracking). Allowed considerable drivetrain slop and wheelhop on occasion. Upgraded the motor mounts and the wheel hop went away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
motor mount bushings
Or traction bar. I had a ek that was putting 240hp/170trq at the wheels. wheel hop and tourqe steer was rediculous. I put a Z10 traction bar in and it completely got rid of my wheel hop issues and made the car handle way more smooth. Poly bushings may not be the way to go on the front.. check out the road racing fourm theres a thread about them and how they may not be the best way to go.
motor mount bushings
Or traction bar. I had a ek that was putting 240hp/170trq at the wheels. wheel hop and tourqe steer was rediculous. I put a Z10 traction bar in and it completely got rid of my wheel hop issues and made the car handle way more smooth. Poly bushings may not be the way to go on the front.. check out the road racing fourm theres a thread about them and how they may not be the best way to go.
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