Ok, i might be owning an ITR shortly. Id like you guys to point me int eh right direction. Im used to modding other B-series motors and whatever. But how would i mod an ITR without wasting my money. Ive heard alot of mods are kinda useless, since the OEM parts are awesome. I dont want any forced induction, but ITBs are not out of the question. What about cams? internals? header? intake manifold? What all would you change? and to what exactly? thanks

btw... i want to get into autox, so no more than 300hp at teh crank.


Modified by TrizzyDizzy at 3:32 PM 3/18/2006

 

depends what you want to do.....what are your goals......your asking a very ambiguous question

 

oh sorry, i forgot to mention. Its goin to be for AutoX, and maybe eventually roadcourse. I dont need much, but maybe 300 hp to the crank. and thats it. maybe a tad bit more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrizzyDizzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont need much, but maybe 300 hp to the crank. and thats it. maybe a tad bit more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... maybe a tad bit more?

Surely you realize there is no way in hell you're going to make 300hp without going FI or spending thousands of $$$? A more realistic goal would be 200-225 on a NA plan and that's still going to cost you plently. I'm sure there are others that can elaborate in more detail... but just in case, IBTL.

 

ats final drive if your going to auto x

 

thats not reasonable power at the crank? im not saying at the wheels. I dotn want that much. But honestly.. it comes with 210 or so at the crank stock? makin another 90 NA hp is really gonnabe that hard? sorry ive only worked with turbo cars..

 

It only makes around 190 ish at the crank. Dependent on how strong the motor is. At the wheels that is equal to around 160-165 hp.

Making another 90 whp out of a B series isn't necessarily going to be hard, but it will cost you just as much, if not more than a turbo build. Either way you slice it, with your hp goal, you are going to spend thousands.

 

If you're really looking to get an R for autocross then get it as bone stock as possible and drive it in at least one to a handful in stock form. 300 NA horsepower will absolutely put you into the Extremely competetive Street Mod class where if you can't drive you'll just not win.

If you are planning on buying a car then modding it for any sanctioned series or club racing be it wheel to wheel or autocross or even time trials, I'd strongly suggest you pick which series you intend to build it for then read and understand the rules as for modifications completely before spending one cent.

 

Thanks guy. I appreciate not flamin me. Im just tryin to get my foot in the door. So, im guessin 300 will be a bit outa my league. So what would you guys recommend for first mods? But ill keep hp to no more than 250hp at the crank. But yea, ill defiantely take your advice and try drivin it stock.

1greyteg - where can a find a site that has all teh rules, classes, and regulations for autox, roadcourse, etc?

Thanks again

 

just think about it for sec..

how is this even possible??
-not to waste your money
-and have around 300 hp. ..

and you dont want to go F/I...

just put it this way.if you go N/A, each 1whp gain will cost you around $100
so it's all depends on your wallet thinkness

as for your mod. i'd say go with some track times instead of buying aftermarket parts.

maybe good break pad/ steel lines?? and maybe nice set of tires and track time ..

 

ok cool, so its basically just like a subaru set up for autox. Brakes + tires &gt; power mods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrizzyDizzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok cool, so its basically just like a subaru set up for autox. Brakes + tires &gt; power mods?</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO power mods should come in LATER when you get used to driving it stock form.

if you're going from 4wd subaru. to itr. it's hell of a change.. in handling.

i have i/h/e on my car now and it's quick enough as is but i'm building up my motor with CTR pistons = 12-12.5 : 1 compression ratio + cams and injectors and blah blah.

if you want to make your car bit faster.. Final Drive would be a good bet .. so it makes every gear rev up faster... building up n/a B18C5 isnt gonna be cheap at all

 

Ok cool. Well the car im buying isnt too stock. But im just gonna mess around and find out how it handles around the cones. Ive driven a lightly modded 2000GSR and i loved the way it handled.

So is there anything in particular that i should steer away from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrizzyDizzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1greyteg - where can a find a site that has all teh rules, classes, and regulations for autox, roadcourse, etc?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check the following big two sites for listed class rules for specific series:

http://www.scca.com/

http://www.nasaproracing.com/

Heres a decent open and relatively clear SCCA list describing classes and allowed mods. But it's always good to get the SCCA rulebook in actual print since some rules change at all sorts of times and this site might not be perfectly up to date:

http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/Rules/index.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrizzyDizzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So is there anything in particular that i should steer away from?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah don't hit the cones, parking lot islands, big bumps and definitely avoid light posts. The flaggers tend to run out of your way but you should also try to steer away from them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah don't hit the cones, parking lot islands, big bumps and definitely avoid light posts. The flaggers tend to run out of your way but you should also try to steer away from them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

 

the answer is "very carefully"

 

Don't set a horsepoer goal, it's useless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't set a horsepoer goal, it's useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
really i allways do. currently it's 230+ whp NA on a stock block ITR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
really i allways do. currently it's 230+ whp NA on a stock block ITR </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it's better to decide how much you want to spend, then see what kind of power you can make with the money you decided to spend. I think it's the wrong frame of mind to say I want to make 240whp and then figure out how much it's going to cost, especially like in the case of the original poster. If you got deep pockets though, I suppose to doesn't matter.

230whp stock block is impressive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

230whp stock block is impressive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

watch for my next post

 

THanks a bunch guys. And i totally understand what you gusy are saying. As for my comment about steering away from.. I was talkin about mods and such. but ill try my best to avoid the cones

 

Get the car first, then come talk to us.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
really i allways do. currently it's 230+ whp NA on a stock block ITR </TD></TR></TABLE>

how the hell do you do that? i hope my motor can make that much
i really like to know what's your set up and see if you really can make 230 + in stock bottom end.

i'm building up 12.5:1 c.r and cams and all that... i am only hoping for 210 + whp.. i think that's hard enough.

and itralex has 2.0L 13:1 compression ratio with cams and all the goodies makes around 220+ whp

so i'd really like to see that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how the hell do you do that? i hope my motor can make that much
i really like to know what's your set up and see if you really can make 230 + in stock bottom end.

i'm building up 12.5:1 c.r and cams and all that... i am only hoping for 210 + whp.. i think that's hard enough.

and itralex has 2.0L 13:1 compression ratio with cams and all the goodies makes around 220+ whp

so i'd really like to see that</TD></TR></TABLE>

well last time I dyno'd I put down 217whp 144tq , heres a list of the mods
'00 JDM ITR with a 1 piece head gasket
ARP headstuds
Buddy Club spec 4's
CTR N-1 Pulley
Portflow springs and retainers
The tranny is '00 Spoon ITR tranny
4.9 ATS final
Excedy thin sprung 6 puck and chromoly flywheel.
All tuned with a Hondata stage 2
The red line is the J's and the green line is the AEM


Since the last time I dyno'd I have upgraded to a
'00 ITR head by reworked by Portflow with a full port, polished combustion chambers, full radius valve job
Buddy Club flat faced valves, dual springs, and retainers
Fully ported comptech race ITR intake manifold
Hondata Insulated IM gasket
Hytech 1.8l header
Kazz 1.5 way LSD
Max-bore tapered 70-65mm TB
and upgraded to a S100

With all my new mods I dont think 13-15hp is unreasonable