Hey I am planning on getting an ACT street clutch kit. I was curious while that is being done if I should go ahead and do an aftermarket flywheel. A few of my friends say no because it makes chatter and is pretty much pointless anyway. Let me know otherwise.

 

clutch chatters NOT the flywheel ... if you wanna get flywheel, get comptech cuz you can resurface them ...

 

your friends sir, are wrong..

 

flywheels r a good thing to get

 

If you are doing the clutch do they flywheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carbonk20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are doing the clutch do they flywheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My question is why? Tell me what good and how noticable a flywheel will be. Thank ya!

 

Faster revs up and down. Not extremely noticable on the S, but if you are doing the clutch anyway, why not.

 

although the gains from the flywheel will be little, the reason why people suggest to do it at the same time as the clutch, is the labor. Lets say you install a new clutch, and a month later want to try out the light 9lb flywheel. well its gonna cost your more in the long run. If your change the clutch you'll most likey have to resurface the flywheel anyways, so might as well install a new piece right then and there.

 

It's definitely not that noticable as far as performance, but the decrease in drivability is quite noticable. I had one and went back to stock.

Tim

 

Decrease in driveability? Theres barely a noticable difference. Which one do you have?

 

hmm I was looking at toda... no particular reason but that'd be good right?

 

I went from a 04 flywheel to a Fidanza flywheel with a SPEC stage 2 clutch. The new combo combined with the clutch delay valve = crappy drivability. I went back to the stock flywheel and things were much improved. The inconsistant engagement caused by the 04+ clutch delay plus the low rotating mass and grippy clutch made drivability suffer severely.

Tim

 

Damn that sucks. Well if that is the case I dont want to get one. Just seems to be like more hassle that I need.

 

Hmmm...I have amost the same setup on an AP1. I have the Fidanza with a SPEC stage 3 clutch. I love it. The engine revs quicker and it frees up a few HP. The clutch holds well without too much harshness. I drive my car regularly so I didn't want a harsh clutch. I would say go for the flywheel and remove the delay valve. The valve hurts performance and kills your clutch quicker by engaging the clutch slowly.

 

i always say if you buy a clutch, always buy the flywheel that matches, as for if you buy competition clutch series buy the clutch kit and get the fly wheel and all with it. (this will also eliminate the nice delay the stock clutch takes to disengage)

i went from stock to a clutch masters FX400, and lightened steel flywheel to match, and had immense difference, id never use stock and other then the fact that i cant.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebodys2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always say if you buy a clutch, always buy the flywheel that matches, as for if you buy competition clutch series buy the clutch kit and get the fly wheel and all with it. (this will also eliminate the nice delay the stock clutch takes to disengage)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

How does buying a new clutch and flywheel eliminate the delay? You gotta show me this one.

 

FYI- removing the delay valve is a 30 minute free mod. There's a great writeup on s2ki. I haven't done it because I'm hoping to protect the rear diff a bit. On a side note, I also had the lightened PP option from SPEC.

Tim

 

You wont get more hp from a lighter flywheel, so I don't see how it'll "free up hp."

Skip the flywheel and listen to your friends. Even though you'll save money installing the flywheel while getting the clutch installed, you'll still have to pay for a flywheel.

I don't agree with the reasoning that you should get a flywheel because you'll have the transmission down already and will save money on labor. Instead of buying a new flywheel, buy a final drive gear set.

 

Awesome info guys. Thanks. Why is the delay there in the first place? Smoother shifts? So say I did the ACT organic street application with heavy duty pressure plate with a toda flywheel and removed the clutch delay... would be badass? And good for the street right? Pleasantly drivable and everything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI- removing the delay valve is a 30 minute free mod. There's a great writeup on s2ki. I haven't done it because I'm hoping to protect the rear diff a bit. On a side note, I also had the lightened PP option from SPEC.

Tim</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've done the delay removal on my AP2 myself; I was just wondering how you removed the delay by replacing the clutch. I may have just read that wrong.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebodys2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you buy competition clutch series buy the clutch kit and get the fly wheel and all with it. (this will also eliminate the nice delay the stock clutch takes to disengage</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vapor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You wont get more hp from a lighter flywheel, so I don't see how it'll "free up hp."

Skip the flywheel and listen to your friends. Even though you'll save money installing the flywheel while getting the clutch installed, you'll still have to pay for a flywheel.

I don't agree with the reasoning that you should get a flywheel because you'll have the transmission down already and will save money on labor. Instead of buying a new flywheel, buy a final drive gear set. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So in your opinion a 300 dollar flywheel isnt worth the money? It doesnt do much difference or something? I dont mind spending money... also what final drive would you reccomend?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjektSlideways &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've done the delay removal on my AP2 myself; I'm just wondering how he removed the delay by replacing the clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is the difference?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3vilMonkey! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How is the difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Better feel when you're downshifting, but also requires better rev matching to avoid jerkiness (sp?). Feels firm and direct on the upshift too. I don't launch, I baby that bitch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjektSlideways &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Better feel when you're downshifting, but also requires better rev matching to avoid jerkiness (sp?). Feels firm and direct on the upshift too. I don't launch, I baby that bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice. Rev matching isnt a problem so when i get a clutch (and maybe flywheel) I'll do it. Why you think it is there in the first place?

 

To prevent shock on the drivetrain. Honda keeps track of how many diffs people break.