double clutching/shifting techniques
okay. from my better judgement and what ive read elsewhere double clutching only benefits on downshifting. i know there's heel/toe for downshifting also. is there any shifting techniques that benefit up shifting?
Try double shifting when upshifting too, you'll notice gears go in even easier. It's not really practical most of the time though to double-clutch all the time during all upshifts.
i know people say to double shift going up but is it really helpful? everything i read says double clutching helps downshifting. is there a real big need to match rpms when upshifting?
i can't grasp the purpose of double clutching while you upshift.. the reason you do it on downshifts is because the lower gearing has higher rpm's at the same speed in the higher gear. so you want to rev it up as you downshift to compensate
but if you're upshifting... the rpm's are dropping because of the higher gear so if you rev it up... wth does that accomplish?? you're actually doing the opposite of what needs to be done
but that's just how i understand it, feel free to school me if i have it misunderstood
but if you're upshifting... the rpm's are dropping because of the higher gear so if you rev it up... wth does that accomplish?? you're actually doing the opposite of what needs to be done
but that's just how i understand it, feel free to school me if i have it misunderstood
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But if you redline, then clutch, rev, clutch, shift, punch, how is that gonna help when the next gear ratios is going the speed of your wheel/axle, Unless you have enough torque to break the difference.
Unless what you mean is to take is to an RPM lesser than your R/L due to power band (example- Si: 5800)
clutch, rev to R.L (6400) then, clutch, shift, punch. .... Um lol, I'm talking out my ***. It's sounded more legible in my head. Lemme know if you get what I mean.
It's a loaded question. Correct me if im wrong but there are so many variable in that question. Stock power <> mod power. Time wasted in d.c, opposed to just stifting the damn thing. Again lemme know if I totaly destroyed the question or if I made any sense. Ah the ADHD brain.
Unless what you mean is to take is to an RPM lesser than your R/L due to power band (example- Si: 5800)
clutch, rev to R.L (6400) then, clutch, shift, punch. .... Um lol, I'm talking out my ***. It's sounded more legible in my head. Lemme know if you get what I mean.
It's a loaded question. Correct me if im wrong but there are so many variable in that question. Stock power <> mod power. Time wasted in d.c, opposed to just stifting the damn thing. Again lemme know if I totaly destroyed the question or if I made any sense. Ah the ADHD brain.
glad we're on the same page then silverlude15
m.c. was just kidding around
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mojo_stevo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if you redline, then clutch, rev, clutch, shift, punch, how is that gonna help when the next gear ratios is going the speed of your wheel/axle, Unless you have enough torque to break the difference.
Unless what you mean is to take is to an RPM lesser than your R/L due to power band (example- Si: 5800)
clutch, rev to R.L (6400) then, clutch, shift, punch. .... Um lol, I'm talking out my ***. It's sounded more legible in my head. Lemme know if you get what I mean.
It's a loaded question. Correct me if im wrong but there are so many variable in that question. Stock power <> mod power. Time wasted in d.c, opposed to just stifting the damn thing. Again lemme know if I totaly destroyed the question or if I made any sense. Ah the ADHD brain. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever you tried to say got me interested.. because either you're agreeing with me and silverlude15
OR
you're against it and i have no dam clue what you said hahaha
m.c. was just kidding around
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mojo_stevo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if you redline, then clutch, rev, clutch, shift, punch, how is that gonna help when the next gear ratios is going the speed of your wheel/axle, Unless you have enough torque to break the difference.
Unless what you mean is to take is to an RPM lesser than your R/L due to power band (example- Si: 5800)
clutch, rev to R.L (6400) then, clutch, shift, punch. .... Um lol, I'm talking out my ***. It's sounded more legible in my head. Lemme know if you get what I mean.
It's a loaded question. Correct me if im wrong but there are so many variable in that question. Stock power <> mod power. Time wasted in d.c, opposed to just stifting the damn thing. Again lemme know if I totaly destroyed the question or if I made any sense. Ah the ADHD brain. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever you tried to say got me interested.. because either you're agreeing with me and silverlude15
OR
you're against it and i have no dam clue what you said hahaha
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Double Clutching during upshift is a simple concept.
just think about when you're launching your car from a stop. you revv the rpm to 5k then drop the clutch and hit the gas. same concept people, just doing it while you're moving. hence, by double clutching in an upshift you get a little "boost."
just think about when you're launching your car from a stop. you revv the rpm to 5k then drop the clutch and hit the gas. same concept people, just doing it while you're moving. hence, by double clutching in an upshift you get a little "boost."
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i thought "power shifting" was when you leave your foot on the gas and shift. gas, hold clutch (while foot on gas), shift in gear, let go of clutch (foot is still on gas).
i agree with syntax, back in the old days you had to double clutch to syncronise the gears cause they didnt have syncros, but these days why the hell would u push the clutch twice to rev match.
when i downshift say im in 5th gear and im comming to a stop or turn and i go to third i hit the clutch rev it to match the rpm it would b in 3rd and let go of the clutch, why would i waste timing hitting the clutch twice, just hold it in.
when i downshift say im in 5th gear and im comming to a stop or turn and i go to third i hit the clutch rev it to match the rpm it would b in 3rd and let go of the clutch, why would i waste timing hitting the clutch twice, just hold it in.
i agree with syntax also. i understand why oduble clutching can be benefical on downshifting. but upshifting i dont see it and isnt that the syncros job?
question: does any one heel/toe properly on a 4h gen? im having trouble hitting the gas i can do it in other cars but cant seem to hit it right in my 4th gen lude? any one else have this problem?
question: does any one heel/toe properly on a 4h gen? im having trouble hitting the gas i can do it in other cars but cant seem to hit it right in my 4th gen lude? any one else have this problem?
double clutching and rev matching are two totally different things!!! DC'ing just means you push the clutch in, put it in neutral, let the clutch out, pushe the clutch back in, then put it in gear. Rev matching means your are putting your revs where they will be once the next gear is engaged, therefore taking the force away from the tranny when you let the clutch out. I rev match on all downshifts,
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
uh.
you guys need to rethink your terminology. double clutching is a technique that was used in older cars that didn't have synchros. to get the next gear up to the proper speed (and avoid a grind), you had to disengage the clutch the get the car out of gear, engage it to get the shafts inside the transmission spinning at the right speed, disengage to put it into the new gear, and finally engage in the new gear.
it's not necessary at all in a modern street car, UNLESS your synchros are fubared and it's the only way to get into gear without grinding.
you guys sound like you're talking about powershifting or something like that.
you guys need to rethink your terminology. double clutching is a technique that was used in older cars that didn't have synchros. to get the next gear up to the proper speed (and avoid a grind), you had to disengage the clutch the get the car out of gear, engage it to get the shafts inside the transmission spinning at the right speed, disengage to put it into the new gear, and finally engage in the new gear.
it's not necessary at all in a modern street car, UNLESS your synchros are fubared and it's the only way to get into gear without grinding.
you guys sound like you're talking about powershifting or something like that.
When you change up a gear you want to slow the engine speed down. There is no need to rev the engine, thats doing totally the wrong thing!
If you're shifting up quickly, especially at high rpm push the clutch all the way. This way you get as much air between the clutch plates as possible, and put less stress on the synchros.
But in general don't try and shift real quick all the time or you're synchros will wear prematurely. So save the quick shifts for when you need to go fast, otherwise shift nice and slow.
If you're shifting up quickly, especially at high rpm push the clutch all the way. This way you get as much air between the clutch plates as possible, and put less stress on the synchros.
But in general don't try and shift real quick all the time or you're synchros will wear prematurely. So save the quick shifts for when you need to go fast, otherwise shift nice and slow.
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