My friend quickly tested my non-lighting dome light and he said (I believe, this was 1 week ago) it was ~5.0v, where it should be ~12v (another thread some one said theres was 13.6v). Why would it be charged (5v) but not fully (12v+)? Old/frayed wire? What else could it be? Car has no other problems that I can detect.

Thank you for your insight.

p3

 

Its 12v, i dont know where you can find 5v into it?

Put the light to on position, put engine running and you should see about 14v there. 13,6v sounds optimal.

 

corroded contacts. unscrew the dome light and try cleaning. also try the door sensor.

 

I cleaned the contacts for the light itself (no luck), but you are saying the housing itself? Haven't tried that.

Also, I get no chirp when I leave the keys in the ignition or open the door with the lights on (car off). Where is/how do I check the door sensor? It's that little L that slides when the door is open/closed, right? The dome light should light if the passenger door is open too, unless both are shot (DS and PS).

Thanks gents.

 

There's one fuse for both the dome light and the door dinger and the seatbelt dinger. Sounds like it is just blown. Try replacing that? Does your clock work? I believe my clock was on the same fuse too.

 

yeah, check the black L shaped things. just clean off the contacts.

yeah, take off the housing. youll see the terminals above it. at least measure your voltage there.

 

purplecrx, I checked all the fuses under the steering wheel with a checker, all good. Is the fuse under the hood?

Will play with this all in a bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend quickly tested my non-lighting dome light and he said (I believe, this was 1 week ago) it was ~5.0v, where it should be ~12v (another thread some one said theres was 13.6v). Why would it be charged (5v) but not fully (12v+)? Old/frayed wire? What else could it be? Car has no other problems that I can detect.
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you answered your own question.

do this, ground your multimeter to a very clean ground, no paint, then open the door and AT THE LIGHT ITSELF check the strength of the ground by using continuity.

if you have close to 0 resistence at the ground then your door switch is fine.

if you have 5 volts on the power wire check all your fuses, then consider running a new wire.

the only thing that can give you 5 volts is:

1) a half blown fuse

2) a slight break in the wire.

3) your meter is grounded to the same weak ground as the light. but if you follow what i said to do first, youll know the ground is good, so its really only 1 and 2.

thats really all that can cause that.

please post your solution bc it will help others.

 

check the door switch itself. If it is damaged/worn it will make slight contact but not enough to light the dome circuit.

 

Nhabitz, the light on the dash for the door being ajar works, so does that mean my door sensor is 100%?

dthink, I will, but this weekend I may be doing transmission and oil pan gasket so the interrior light bug will have to wait, but I will get to it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phoenix_iii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nhabitz, the light on the dash for the door being ajar works, so does that mean my door sensor is 100%?
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the sensor also grounds out the lightbulb directly to the chassis. if the contacts are dirty, itll mess up the potential (voltage).