Both ends of the bolt snapped off. and I cannot get the remains of the bolt out of the bushing for the life of me. should I just replace the whole arm? can I replace just the bushing? is there any way to remove it? any suggestions would be nice.

Thankgs guys.

 

Does the bolt have to thread before it can be removed? If so, dremel a notch into the end of the bolt and twist it out with a flat-head screwdriver. As for bushing replacement... good luck, I have heard it is pretty difficult.

 

I don't care to replace it I am fine with leaving the old one. but thats a pretty good idea with the dremel I'll give it a shot. i don't know if it is thredded all the way through.

 

thats called an lca bolt, and the same thing happened to me and from what it looks like just about everyone breaks that. id say the dremel and screw driver idea is your safest bet though. i just put different lca's on mine

 

Torch, torch and then torch. If you torch the rubber bushing out (i suggest you do it with the arm out of the car) you can push out that whole center pin where the bolt snapped off. Then replace the bushing (oem or polyurethane) and order new bolts.

 

I tried a torch while it was on the car but I didn't want to destroy the brake like I'll pull it off and try that.

 

just pull the arm out a machine shop will press it out then press a new one in. this time put some antiseize between the bolt and inner bushing hole.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Torch, torch and then torch. If you torch the rubber bushing out (i suggest you do it with the arm out of the car) you can push out that whole center pin where the bolt snapped off. Then replace the bushing (oem or polyurethane) and order new bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what about finding a bolt that fits it at the store?

 

how do you figure your gonna get the new bushing in without pressing the old one out?

 

well I'm going to press it out and then I'll go scoop one up from honda from a dealership for way more than its worth

 

**** i ran into the same problem with my 92 da i tried a pry bar and everything to get the bolt out and then i felt it twist a bit said F' that and disconected it from the rear subframe but yea i think you should totaly remove the lca's and torch out the bushing and try to remove the broken bolt then last resort would be a junk yard if you dont fell lke going threw the trouble

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Torch, torch and then torch. If you torch the rubber bushing out (i suggest you do it with the arm out of the car) you can push out that whole center pin where the bolt snapped off. Then replace the bushing (oem or polyurethane) and order new bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

http://store.summitracing.com/...3109G

those work?

 

there no way cutting a slit with a dremel and using a screw driver will work, the bolt is froze in there. You best bet is to press the old bushing out and put new ones in and get new bolts. This is a very common thing that happens.

Put some anti-seize on the shaft of the new bolt to make sure it doesnt happen again.

EDIT: i would just go to honda and get new bolts..they are prolly kinda $$ but worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Torch, torch and then torch. If you torch the rubber bushing out (i suggest you do it with the arm out of the car) you can push out that whole center pin where the bolt snapped off. Then replace the bushing (oem or polyurethane) and order new bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Follow this Team Integra article:
http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1025

 

You can try a Tool Called a Easy OUt..... it has reversed Threads what you do is drill a hole in the center of the bolt then screw in the Easy the Reverse way and when it tightens you take a Socket and turn the F*** out of it and the bolt comes out

 

Use a torch to heat it and hit it with a hammer to knock it out. Then go to your local parts store or mail order a set of energy suspensions LCA bushings. Every time a person wants me to lower their car, I send them out to get new bushings/bolts first.

 

fire fire n mor fire

 

Here's a detailed writeup for ya

http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1025

 

haha man I hate that bolt, I have had 4 hondas and it broke on 3 of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOLO-FTW!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha man I hate that bolt, I have had 4 hondas and it broke on 3 of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea luckily on my 99 ls, they were easy as **** to get out, i was very surprised, so was my friend with an ej1, but his were a pain in the ***

 

I had the same problem a couple weeks ago when I installed my H&R sport springs. Instead of using a torch to remove the center part of the bushing I used a small drill bit and kept drilling into the rubber part of the bushing until I was able to push it out with a punch. it only took a few minutes of drilling and no dangerous fire was needed. Everything else was pretty much as stated in the team-integra write up, except I used an air cut off wheel instead of the sawzall to cut the LCA bolt free of the shock. I did use my sawzall to cut a slit in the sleeve part of the old bushing to relief the pressure. A quick hit with the air chisel and it was out. That freaking bolt was about $12 each from the steelership, but I did not want to wait to mail order it and I could not find the size I needed at the hardware store.

 

good idea, not to thread jack this but i too have the same problem. but mine is where the lca connects to the trailing arm...very limited space to work there. The other end of it is a pointed cone? i have no idea how to get it out, shops say they could drill and re thread but they will rape me on labor. plus all my bushings are dust in the rear. plus the bolt snapped off due to rust...others might be rusted too. Think its just time to get a rear brake conversion
btw the dremel and using a flat head to turn it out is a great idea.

 

I did it. i pulled off the whole LCA stuck it in a vice torched the hell out of the rubber smashed it out with a hammer took a hack saw stuck the blade through the hole cut through the metal ring hammered it out with s screwdriver dremeled inside ot make it smooth and shiney and put the new bushing it. it sucked but it worked.