Crank pulley bolt broke in half...need HELP
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From: Marshfield, MO, us
Ok this last November I started up my car to leave work and the crank pulley bolt broke in half and the pulley came off. I instanlty turned car off and did not notice any other damage. Timing belt looks good too. The car has been sitting since but it needs to be moved every now and then and its becoming a pain to push it around. It seems a little less then half of the bolt is still in the crank.
I have done a search and came up with 3 solutions. 1. Try to ez-out it. 2. Weld a nut back one to torque it out. 3.Drill and tapp it with reverse threads to fit another small bolt in....and then take it out that way.
Which one sounds best for my situation?
Here are pics so anyone can tell me if something else is wrong



I have done a search and came up with 3 solutions. 1. Try to ez-out it. 2. Weld a nut back one to torque it out. 3.Drill and tapp it with reverse threads to fit another small bolt in....and then take it out that way.
Which one sounds best for my situation?
Here are pics so anyone can tell me if something else is wrong



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From: Marshfield, MO, us
It looks like there is a woodruff key still in there deep inside, but also looks as if I can fit one more once the pulley is on. Do I need 2 total?
the end of the crank is messed up just a little and yes u need two woodruff keys...u should be able to ez out that bolt now that the head is gone since there isnt in torque on it now(spray the hell out of it with PB BLASTER first)
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Well I guess I had some luck on my side. I was going to try to ez out it and tried to drill a small hole in it...but I didnt get anywhere. I was pissed and thought to myself "just try to break it." After a couple of wacks with a hammer and sharp pointed tool, I gave up. I looked at it one more time and noticed the ****** had moved. I touched it with my nail and it turned. It came right out.
I know I need a new bolt and one more woodruff key, so once I get those I can just slap it right back on right. Just align the 2 woodruff keys? Timing should still be the same since nothing happened to the belt?
I know I need a new bolt and one more woodruff key, so once I get those I can just slap it right back on right. Just align the 2 woodruff keys? Timing should still be the same since nothing happened to the belt?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by portenio78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> broke in half and the pulley came off. I instanlty turned car off and did not notice any other damage. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by portenio78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Timing should still be the same since nothing happened to the belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Best bet would be to pull the head and check for damage. Even though you might think that nothing happened something may have. Pull the head, check the pistons to see if there was valve-to-piston contact. If so check to see if the valve stems are bent. Buy a new belt also! that's my 2-cents,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by portenio78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Timing should still be the same since nothing happened to the belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Best bet would be to pull the head and check for damage. Even though you might think that nothing happened something may have. Pull the head, check the pistons to see if there was valve-to-piston contact. If so check to see if the valve stems are bent. Buy a new belt also! that's my 2-cents,
WHy would you want to pull the head?
If the belt slipped, there is already damage, so turning the engine over by hand to align the timing marks wont cause anymore damage than is already there.
Just put the new bolt in and turn the crank by hand until your timing marks are aligned properly (Piston #1 is at TDC and all rocker arms on Cylinder 1 have some play). If they line up, you didnt skip any teeth, and dont have any head damage. If they are not aligned, then you can assume there is damage from valves contacting pistons. And a head rebuild may be necessary.
While you have the whole pully/cover assembly off, you might as well replace the timing belt. It is easy to do from that point.
If the belt slipped, there is already damage, so turning the engine over by hand to align the timing marks wont cause anymore damage than is already there.
Just put the new bolt in and turn the crank by hand until your timing marks are aligned properly (Piston #1 is at TDC and all rocker arms on Cylinder 1 have some play). If they line up, you didnt skip any teeth, and dont have any head damage. If they are not aligned, then you can assume there is damage from valves contacting pistons. And a head rebuild may be necessary.
While you have the whole pully/cover assembly off, you might as well replace the timing belt. It is easy to do from that point.
I didn't allude to damage being caused by turning over the crank. I am saying that the motor was running when the timing belt slipped. The odds of valve to piston contact are very good because of momentum!
It is easy to check now. Don't assume everything is ok, make sure!
It is easy to check now. Don't assume everything is ok, make sure!
IF there has been valve to piston contact because of slipped timing, then there is no way the timing marks will line up now. Thus, if he simply turns the motor over by hand to check if his timing has jumped, that would be a lot easier (And cheaper) than pulling the head to inspect the valves at this time.
Now, if he discovers that the timing has jumped by a couple of teeth, he will have to pull the head to find out the damage.
I understand your concerns, but as he stated in his first post, he does not think he jumped timing at all. That's why I suggested he check his timing by hand first. If there is damage already, then the damage is done, so to speak, and turning the engine over by hand wont make it any worse, but it could save him the time and effort of pulling a head.
Now, if he discovers that the timing has jumped by a couple of teeth, he will have to pull the head to find out the damage.
I understand your concerns, but as he stated in his first post, he does not think he jumped timing at all. That's why I suggested he check his timing by hand first. If there is damage already, then the damage is done, so to speak, and turning the engine over by hand wont make it any worse, but it could save him the time and effort of pulling a head.
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Thanks for the input fellas. Ya, the timing belt looks fine...remember the only thing that happened was the pulley cam off and I turned the motor off. The timing belt doesnt look like it even creeped over. I will turn the motor over by hand and double check though.
Consider yourself very fortunate!! it would be very difficult to do valve damage by hand turning the motor.. id turn it to see if u hear it hitting and of course check the timing marks.
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
tig weld it out, DO NOT try using a mig, its not hot enough and the splatter will bind the internal threads of the crank snout. i would just keep adding tig puddles until it extends out of the snout and can be grabbed with quality vice grips. go slow though, you dont want the puddles to start sagging with gravity, let them cool enough to be firm and extend straight out of the hole horizontally.
oxy acetylene the bolt till its glowing dull cherry red. you want to remove this while the bolt is as hot as possible and begins to cool. the hot expanded bolt will give its heat to the crank, shrinking itself and expanding the snout threads.
if you could get that bolt red hot, it would probably chisel out with ease, since the head snapped off and the tensile load is now gone. (unless its the wrong bolt and bottomed, snapping a crank bolt is odd anyways) do yourself a favor and pull the front cover, timing belt, oilpump, pan and gasket, etc, so none of your parts melt.
good luck with that PITA
oxy acetylene the bolt till its glowing dull cherry red. you want to remove this while the bolt is as hot as possible and begins to cool. the hot expanded bolt will give its heat to the crank, shrinking itself and expanding the snout threads.
if you could get that bolt red hot, it would probably chisel out with ease, since the head snapped off and the tensile load is now gone. (unless its the wrong bolt and bottomed, snapping a crank bolt is odd anyways) do yourself a favor and pull the front cover, timing belt, oilpump, pan and gasket, etc, so none of your parts melt.
good luck with that PITA
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All is well. Got a new bolt and key and torqued her down. TDC lined up perfect with the cam gear....turned over and fired right up. No more pushing the car around, YES!
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