Problem solved. adjusted a bit of play out of clutch pedal, works great now.even with the old dirty clutch fluid


im having problems with my tilton clutch again.... still seems like the pedal isnt disenguaging the clutch enough, and its a real pita to get into gear. it seemed fine for the 2 days ive been drivin the car, but now its just plain ****. the trans grinds, (it didnt do that 2days ago). sometimes i have to shut the engine off just to get it into 1st gear @ redlights/stop signs

anyhow.. what im tryin to get at is.

1. should i try to adjust the clutch pedal to try to get the tilton to disenguage.

2. the clutch fluid in the resivour is BLACK. looks like its so ****** old. is it possble that the fluid is "breaking down" and not allowing a full slave cyl extension. im going to change that tommorrow. i know brake fluild sure as hell aint black.

question #2 brings up my 3rd question.

which DOT # is recomended for use with these clutchs ? the higher DOT #, the less it "boils" from heat ?????? im thinkin maybe my clutch fluid is soo old, and getting hot, which causes the clutch situation. im thinking of a dot 4 or dot5, im not sure what is in there but i know new fluid should be better than old ****.

i belive they say that the differant dot #'s should not be mixed with eachother ? so i will clean out my slave/master/ lines completely with brake-clean


4. even if i pump the pedal to try to build up "extra" pressure incase any air might have gotten into the system anyhow, that does not help at all.


Modified by Dturbocivic at 9:41 PM 3/11/2006


Modified by Dturbocivic at 10:01 PM 3/13/2006

 

Dot 3 is fine.

How long have you had the clutch? We had a Tilton Master go out once.

Did you adjust it per Tilton's instructions.

Pumping the pedal shouldn't build extra pressure. It should always have the same pressure.

 

sounds like you need to bleed your clutch and get fresh fluid throughout the lines

either that or your clutch is smoked

did you put tiltons throwout bearing on when you installed the clutch?


Modified by jdmturbosol at 8:23 PM 3/11/2006


Modified by jdmturbosol at 8:25 PM 3/11/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmturbosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like either you need to bleed your brakes and get fresh fluid throughout the lines

either that or your brand new clutch is smoked

did you put tiltons throwout bearing on when you installed the clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

bleeding the brakes has nothing to do with the clutch system.

I'd check to see if you are leaking fluid anywhere (mostly inside the cabin on the firewall, and the slave cylinder). this same thing happened in my integra and it ended up being the slave cylinder orings slowly giving out

 

i had the same problem with haveing to stop turn the car off put in in 1st then u get 1 run through the gears & no down shifting. my problen was some of the gears were riding together ruffly causeing them to get stuck. we took the tranny apart 4 times till we fugures it out it was 2nd & 3rd gear

 

alright. do you guys street drive these clutchs for more than an hour at a time?

last night i took the car out, after i let it sit for a good 5hours. let it cool. and the clutch works fine, also this morning the clutch is working great too.

it seems like as soon as the discs get some heat in them they really want to grab.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zubaltec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dot 3 is fine.

How long have you had the clutch? We had a Tilton Master go out once.

Did you adjust it per Tilton's instructions.

Pumping the pedal shouldn't build extra pressure. It should always have the same pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this clutch is 2yrs old. it was in my 500+hp street car in 04, then it was in a hotrod car 820hp to the tires last season, and now im running it again in my street car.

adjust ? pedal play??

i figured pumping it might build extra pressure, incase i might have a small leak. but this is not the case.


im using a stock throwout bearing, and i grinded all the plastic down so the **** dont hit the fingers on the PP

 

i noticed that the tilton, very much changes its grabbing charactoristic as its temp changes, ive been using the clutch for a while now,with the stock trowout bearing (shaved) and have to constanly make adjust to the pede(yess the pedel, you can do it here, it works wonders) luckily i dont drive it on the street

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmturbosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like either you need to bleed your brakes and get fresh fluid throughout the lines

either that or your brand new clutch is smoked

did you put tiltons throwout bearing on when you installed the clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha
i meant your clutch
sorry man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtekthis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i noticed that the tilton, very much changes its grabbing charactoristic as its temp changes, ive been using the clutch for a while now,with the stock trowout bearing (shaved) and have to constanly make adjust to the pede(yess the pedel, you can do it here, it works wonders) luckily i dont drive it on the street </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright, sounds like what im experiancing is "normal" this clutch defintly changes with tempeture.

i am going to try out the tilton hydrolic bearing and see if that makes it any better. supposedly has 19mm of movement, where as stock slave only has 12.4 of movement.

 

Do you have to run their throw out bearing or master cylinder with there clutches. Or can you use the stock one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E Town DSM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have to run their throw out bearing or master cylinder with there clutches. Or can you use the stock one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont "have" to run their master/hydrolic release bearing. the stock master/slave works with a bit of pedal adjustment. on your stock throwout bearing there is plastic all around the inner diameter, so you just need to grind that down so its below the surface that the fingers of the pressure plate ride on.

its kind of hard to see in this picture, but the "thick" grey part on the inner part of the T.O. bearing is what need to be grinded down. i use a regular angle grinder, and tilt it almost perpendicular to the surface im shaving down. it works great, then i get rid of the rest of the melted plastic with a round file.



the trans case is grinded down on the shinny area's so the bolts on the pressure plate dont hit the case.

 

The only fluid you can't mix with DOT 3/4/or 5.1 is DOT 5 which is a silicone brake fluid which is non-hygroscopic and doesn't harm paint. Since it isn't hygroscopic the fluid which does collect usually falls to the lowest point in the system causing rust from the inside out. DOT 5 is mainly used in Harley Davidsons and old Hot Rods that aren't driven very much. I would not flush out your clutch lines with brake clean. You can mix dot 3 and 4 and also 5.1. Just run some clean fluid through your system

 

any dot # prefered over another?

 

sound like u need to adjust u pedal height... once the clutch heats up causes the disk to heat up, and not allowing it to disengage... had this prob with 3000 gt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WCL Motorwerks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sound like u need to adjust u pedal height... once the clutch heats up causes the disk to heat up, and not allowing it to disengage... had this prob with 3000 gt </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya, that is the most likely the answer to my problem. drove the car around for a good 4 hours tonight with no problems. shifted smooth everytime. but i was also cautious, as to try not heat the clutch up. tommorrow i have some free time im going to mess with it.

thanks everyone for their input

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WCL Motorwerks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sound like u need to adjust u pedal height... once the clutch heats up causes the disk to heat up, and not allowing it to disengage... had this prob with 3000 gt </TD></TR></TABLE>

Had the same problem with my dsm. The clutch fork was bent and ended up snapping. Swapped the fork out and never had a problem. Sounds like it might be adjustment though.

 

any advise...for a triple disc tilton haven't installed it yet(for DC2) but andthing i should look out for.?

 

I had the same thing happen to me with a 6 puck,but i sent it back and got a brand new one and has been working fine. Dont know why are you cable?????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the trans case is grinded down on the shinny area's so the bolts on the pressure plate dont hit the case.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dave, what tranny are you using? When I put my twin disk tilton in I didn't have to grind the case for it to fit. I can dig up some pics of what i did. Also, I'd rec the tilton hydo bearing, it seams to work alot better with the tilton than the stock slave. Also the tilton is self adjusting and you can eliminate the slave and clutch fork. I used mine when the new flywheel wasn't out so I went with the stock machined one but, never again. I will get the reg flywheel next time, too much "adjusting" needed to be done to make it fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dave, what tranny are you using? When I put my twin disk tilton in I didn't have to grind the case for it to fit. I can dig up some pics of what i did. Also, I'd rec the tilton hydo bearing, it seams to work alot better with the tilton than the stock slave. Also the tilton is self adjusting and you can eliminate the slave and clutch fork. I used mine when the new flywheel wasn't out so I went with the stock machined one but, never again. I will get the reg flywheel next time, too much "adjusting" needed to be done to make it fit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that was my b16 trans from 04. im currently running a gsr trans which came with the car. i also grinded it the same as that picture shows. it helps the bolts clear the case. mine arent flipped upside down, i also grinded the tops of the bolts down to the nuts on the pressure plate.

today i adjusted the clutch pedal, thats all it needed. the thing works like a champ even with the old dirty clutch fluid

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by finaltouchpro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any advise...for a triple disc tilton haven't installed it yet(for DC2) but andthing i should look out for.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

id like to know how you are going to fit a triple disc inside a b-series bell-housing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

id like to know how you are going to fit a triple disc inside a b-series bell-housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did that thing fit or what

 

old thread re-opening is soooo 2 nights ago

 

expletive off jeff i get to have my fun now

 

ok, sorry brosef, go as you were