T1R Bmax vs. Koni/GC Setup
Sorry I usually hate these threads but i have been stuck between these two setups for a while. I can't find any reviews from people that actually have used the T1R's but a lot on the Koni's. I dunno just toss in some opinions. and I know Erik95LS is gonna rip me for even making this post
Also the ratio on the spring rates is pretty much equal on either set i choose
Also the ratio on the spring rates is pretty much equal on either set i choose
I started a thread a while back with interest in the T1R set-up. Look here for some info: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1356417
MooFX is the only guy I know personally who has the set-up. Perhaps you could PM him for a review.
A LOT of people recommended the Koni/GC set-up.
MooFX is the only guy I know personally who has the set-up. Perhaps you could PM him for a review.
A LOT of people recommended the Koni/GC set-up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ferrell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't Chad post something about the T1R's when they were first released?
someone jog my memory....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the ones chad has are not available to the public or never made it to production or something like that.
someone jog my memory....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the ones chad has are not available to the public or never made it to production or something like that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743power »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think the ones chad has are not available to the public or never made it to production or something like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes his were different
I think the ones chad has are not available to the public or never made it to production or something like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes his were different
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strawberry face »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to run on a Koni/GC setup. It was great for autocrossing, but I wanted a more firm feeling, so I had to switch for full coilovers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh?
Huh?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strawberry face »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to run on a Koni/GC setup. It was great for autocrossing, but I wanted a more firm feeling, so I had to switch for full coilovers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, please elaborate.
Yes, please elaborate.

Man it's been awhile since I've seen a set of GCs... when did they start looking like this? Been out of the game for a few years since my fiasco with the Civic.
This is the setup that intrests me. More info please!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also the ratio on the spring rates is pretty much equal on either set i choose</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you can choose whatever you want for the Konis/GCs.
I've been on Konis/GCs for a couple months. I really enjoyed the stock suspension and was reluctant to upgrade but after seeing enough happy track-goers with the setup I went with them.
I'm running 400 lbs/in front and 500 lbs/in rear (did some reasearch, many reccomended this as a good starting point), also using the GC upper mounts. The setup is awesome on the track and not too harsh for the street (I run the shocks at 1/2 stiff front and nearly full stiff in the rear both street and track). I also upgraded the rear anti rollbar to the 23mm JDM OEM. The car feels a lot more stable and confident, and it also rotates really really well now. I'd do a lot of archive searching as well for more imput on this setup, its very hard to beat.
Also the ratio on the spring rates is pretty much equal on either set i choose</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you can choose whatever you want for the Konis/GCs.
I've been on Konis/GCs for a couple months. I really enjoyed the stock suspension and was reluctant to upgrade but after seeing enough happy track-goers with the setup I went with them.
I'm running 400 lbs/in front and 500 lbs/in rear (did some reasearch, many reccomended this as a good starting point), also using the GC upper mounts. The setup is awesome on the track and not too harsh for the street (I run the shocks at 1/2 stiff front and nearly full stiff in the rear both street and track). I also upgraded the rear anti rollbar to the 23mm JDM OEM. The car feels a lot more stable and confident, and it also rotates really really well now. I'd do a lot of archive searching as well for more imput on this setup, its very hard to beat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strawberry face »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to run on a Koni/GC setup. It was great for autocrossing, but I wanted a more firm feeling, so I had to switch for full coilovers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That doesn't make sense to me at all
That doesn't make sense to me at all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That doesn't make sense to me at all
</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe he doesnt know GC had stiffer ones...
That doesn't make sense to me at all
</TD></TR></TABLE>maybe he doesnt know GC had stiffer ones...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That doesn't make sense to me at all
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah me niether.
Damn you Josh!
You know what I think, but I'm sure the concensus here will tell you the same. I'd rather go with something I know and can trust (koni/gc) then something that may or may be just as good or not as good when spending that kind of money.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah me niether.
Damn you Josh!
You know what I think, but I'm sure the concensus here will tell you the same. I'd rather go with something I know and can trust (koni/gc) then something that may or may be just as good or not as good when spending that kind of money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm running 400 lbs/in front and 500 lbs/in rear (did some reasearch, many reccomended this as a good starting point), also using the GC upper mounts. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I heard that with the GC upper mounts, you won't be able to use your strut bar. Is this the case with you?
I'm running 400 lbs/in front and 500 lbs/in rear (did some reasearch, many reccomended this as a good starting point), also using the GC upper mounts. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I heard that with the GC upper mounts, you won't be able to use your strut bar. Is this the case with you?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strawberry face »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to run on a Koni/GC setup. It was great for autocrossing, but I wanted a more firm feeling, so I had to switch for full coilovers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This comment leads me to believe you don't know what the hell you're talking about.
This comment leads me to believe you don't know what the hell you're talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rate springs will GC give you if you don't ask for a specific S/R??</TD></TR></TABLE>
IIRC, something like F:350# R:300#. In other words, really soft.
IIRC, something like F:350# R:300#. In other words, really soft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IIRC, something like F:350# R:300#. In other words, really soft.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm almost positive that it is 380f 250r
IIRC, something like F:350# R:300#. In other words, really soft.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm almost positive that it is 380f 250r
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah me niether.
Damn you Josh!
You know what I think, but I'm sure the concensus here will tell you the same. I'd rather go with something I know and can trust (koni/gc) then something that may or may be just as good or not as good when spending that kind of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
welp i think my decision is to go with the koni's with stock springs dropped down a tad and a 23mm jdm rear bar. then later on when i want i can get the gc's and top hats.... i found that through work i can get a pretty good deal on some koni;s through tire rack
yeah me niether.
Damn you Josh!
You know what I think, but I'm sure the concensus here will tell you the same. I'd rather go with something I know and can trust (koni/gc) then something that may or may be just as good or not as good when spending that kind of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
welp i think my decision is to go with the koni's with stock springs dropped down a tad and a 23mm jdm rear bar. then later on when i want i can get the gc's and top hats.... i found that through work i can get a pretty good deal on some koni;s through tire rack
In my view - the main advantage of dedicated coilovers is that you (generally) get a set of matched dampers to the spring rates you choose (i.e. really stiff).
For modest spring rates (500#/in and under) - you can get away with OTS dampers like Koni or Bilstein paired with a good spring (like Eibach ERS) and have a really nice combo with a price that can't be beat. Plus if you ever blow a damper - fixing the system is very easy. If you have a problem with a coilover - you will have to send it back to the manufacturer for servicing - or buy a new coilover (not cheap and try to find a single one for sale!)
Once you get into the range of spring rates that stock dampers can't handle well(500#+) - I think you are better off with a more expensive coilover system that has the beefier internal valving to handle the higher spring rates.
There used to be more places that actually re-valved stock shocks for higher spring rates - but for many it is a pain in the *** to send them out and get the dampers done - also the places that do this are either mucho expensive or take forever to get your stuff back. (anyone remember the JIC fiasco?)
The other thing to consider though is that the stock unibody can really only handle spring rates up to about 600# before the chassis really starts to flex. You will likely need to stiffen the chassis (roll bar or cage) to get good performance from a coilover system with a high spring rate - otherwise you are going to get less-than-stellar performance/handling/ride quality.
For modest spring rates (500#/in and under) - you can get away with OTS dampers like Koni or Bilstein paired with a good spring (like Eibach ERS) and have a really nice combo with a price that can't be beat. Plus if you ever blow a damper - fixing the system is very easy. If you have a problem with a coilover - you will have to send it back to the manufacturer for servicing - or buy a new coilover (not cheap and try to find a single one for sale!)
Once you get into the range of spring rates that stock dampers can't handle well(500#+) - I think you are better off with a more expensive coilover system that has the beefier internal valving to handle the higher spring rates.
There used to be more places that actually re-valved stock shocks for higher spring rates - but for many it is a pain in the *** to send them out and get the dampers done - also the places that do this are either mucho expensive or take forever to get your stuff back. (anyone remember the JIC fiasco?)
The other thing to consider though is that the stock unibody can really only handle spring rates up to about 600# before the chassis really starts to flex. You will likely need to stiffen the chassis (roll bar or cage) to get good performance from a coilover system with a high spring rate - otherwise you are going to get less-than-stellar performance/handling/ride quality.



