Ok. I just made a post about breaking in the 06 Si. I figured that was a little to narrow so im going to word it a little different.

What is the best way to break in a K-Series Honda Motor.


1.) Baby it for about 1000 miles

or 2.) All out from the very second you get the car

or if there is anyother way that you guys know of?


Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRAG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the best way to break in a K-Series Honda Motor.
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you read your manual.

 

baby it.

 

A majority of engine builders use the following method. I made this writeup for for a person who just assembled a built motor, but the same techniques can be applied to stock motors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The two most important things for breaking in your motor.
1) Keeping the heat DOWN, and by down I mean "normal".

2) Varying the load on the engine.

RPM's create heat from friction, so the longer you stay in the higher RPM's, the more heat buildup there is along the cylinder walls and pistons, which can cause the rings to seat incorrectly.

Always idle the motor for 15-25 minutes on the first startup. Do this to make sure fuel pressure and ignition timing are where they are suppose to be. You definately don't want to run rich during this time, washing the rings out with fuel will ruin the seating process, but the tuning does not have to be exact. A stock ECU on a stock motor, or a good basemap on a modified motor should work.

The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. A higher gear is preferable, like 4th or 5th.

Use a LOW DETERGENT oil, like standard Castrol GTX (what I used to break-in my 2.0L). I changed my oil at 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and after 1000, I started using synthetic. By 90 miles my compression was at 270 across the board using the techniques I described above.

You can also break-in a motor on the dyno. Upon first startup, idle the car for 15-25 minutes, change the oil, and upon next startup, do a few 1st through 5th gear pulls, idle the motor for 5-10 minutes, change the oil, rings will have seated properly. There is a flipside to this break-in process, you MUST be certain that the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, (boost if applicable), is all tuned PERFECTLY. If you break-in the motor running too lean, the rings will have not seated properly due to the excessive heat. If you break-in the motor running too rich, you can wash the rings during the initial startup and idle, which will also cause the rings not to seat properly.

It is generally the easiest to perform the first technique, because your tuning does not have to be as precise, and you do not need access to a dyno. Plus it is much more convenient for a street car, because you would have to do the first startup at the dyno location otherwise.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by korean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">baby it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You DO NOT want to baby it. If you "baby it", by driving it so tame that the rings never reach optimal temperatures, your rings will seat incorrectly, and you will suffer from oil consumption and poor compression for the entire life of the motor.

 

read what what your manual says. these honda-tech people couldn't give two ***** what happens to your car anyway.

 

Warm it up and run it hard to seal the rings..