ay... does anyone know how much a stock k20 swap into a 92' hatchback is

 

search around. k20's are still relatively expensive.

 

try k20a.org

And as the previous poster mentioned, they're pretty darn expensive still...

 

Another site you can try is hmotorsomline.com and hasport should have the motor mounts you need.

 

As mentioned above for the most part K20's are pretty expensive, although some have found them at bargain prices that is not likely.

If you are dead set on a K swap look into the K24 from either the CRV or the TSX. They both can be had (from what I have seen) for much cheeper than a K20. The TSX (K24a2?) produces around 200hp and a bit more tourque than the K20 and the CRV variant produces around 160hp IIRC and it should have tourque numbers simaler to the K24a2.

Just something to look into.

 

$10k.

 

why would you put a k20 into a hatch when the B series motors have gone down so much? IMO a B series motor like the B18C1 would be a better choice than the k20a2 swapped into a hatch because its cheaper. performance wise they are pretty close.

 

hahaha are u retarded or something did u just say the performance is the same haha u must not no anything about cars im not talking about swaping the k20 none type s im talkin bout swaping the k20 type r from japan.. This motor in a hatchback will smoke stock evo 8's, STI's pretty much anything.

 

It will hang with those cars on good tire, but I dont think it will "smoke" them.
But back on topic, the swap is pretty expensive still. Why not get a K20A2 for a few grand cheaper and replace the parts on that motor with aftermarket parts instead of having a mostly stock K20A?
Seriously I have seen K20A2 around $2500 if not less. With that, you are saving about $2000 on a K20A. Spend the $2000 on a quaiffe LSD, and some cams. You will be faster than a K20A. That is unless you mainly just want to stay stock with the motor.

 

yea ok so you know the type r k20 runs high 11's right? and if you had a C1 in a hatch i gurantee it wont even run low 13.s

 

maybe on slicks it will run 11's.
I would love to see two timeslips of people that have ran 11's, on street tire, with basic bolt ons (I/H/E/Hondata) with a K20A in an EG Hatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoBottleJustThrottle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will hang with those cars on good tire, but I dont think it will "smoke" them.
But back on topic, the swap is pretty expensive still. Why not get a K20A2 for a few grand cheaper and replace the parts on that motor with aftermarket parts instead of having a mostly stock K20A?
Seriously I have seen K20A2 around $2500 if not less. With that, you are saving about $2000 on a K20A. Spend the $2000 on a quaiffe LSD, and some cams. You will be faster than a K20A. That is unless you mainly just want to stay stock with the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree with your statment in bold

what comes in a jdm K20a not in usdm k20a2
LSD...$600 or $875 (quaife)
ITR CAMS $400-$500
ITR valvetrain (springs & retainers) $300
ITR gearing $500
ITR (PRC) IM or si (RBC) $250
higher compression pistons $500

yeah thats not worth the extra $$$

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoBottleJustThrottle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe on slicks it will run 11's.
I would love to see two timeslips of people that have ran 11's, on street tire, with basic bolt ons (I/H/E/Hondata) with a K20A in an EG Hatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

best time I have seen on street tires is 12.8-12.9 on a gutted hatch...end of conversation (agreeing with NoBottleJustThrottle)

here is a list of parts that I have acquired for jdm type r k20a swap in ek

Set up:
jdm k20a
hytech adjustable length header
t1r ek midpipe (2.5 no bottlenecks)
hytech twin loop axle back exhaust (2.5 no bottlenecks)
RBC intake manifold w/Speedwerx adapter plate
ADF intake manifold gasket
custom CAI piping (MOTO-C)
PrototypeRacing velocity stack w/K&N filter
Toda Flywheel (8.1 lb - chromoly)
Exedy stg2 cerametallic clutch
Hasport axles (stg1)
Hasport mounts (ekk1)
hasport fan switch
Aeromotive FPR
custom fuel line set up (-6an aeroquip startlite lines, earls ano-tuff fittings, earls fuel filter, marshall shock proof FP gauge)
golden eagle fuel rail
walbro 195 fuel pump
C&R 1/2size radiator w/Karcepts mount
Spal 1200cfm 12" slim fan
Hondata K-pro
Karcepts shift kit
Suja-1 motoring custom clutch line
RSX-S clutch slave cylinder
ep3 ('02-'05 si) idler pulley & bracket
autozone 50.5" 7-rib belt
carbing oil catch can (mod'd)
'00 si upper rad hose (for bottom)
'06 si upper rad hose (for upper)

**** gets expensive fast...you can cut corners if you want...ie dc tsx header for $300 instead of a DTR or Hytech header (costing more than 3x as much) but in the longrun swap can be done as cheap as $8000 (keyword cheap! ) but to do it nice I say 10K+

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adirondackR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I disagree with your statment in bold

what comes in a jdm K20a not in usdm k20a2
LSD...$600 or $875 (quaife)
ITR CAMS $400-$500
ITR valvetrain (springs & retainers) $300
ITR gearing $500
ITR (PRC) IM or si (RBC) $250
higher compression pistons $500

yeah thats not worth the extra $$$ </TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what you are saying. I just thought maybe with a quaife and some agressive cams (more agressive than the ITR's) that you would be pretty damn close, if not faster than the ITR motor. What about tuning? You already have the K-pro just to do the swap, so thats taken care of. I dont know. You are probably right. Its just if I were doing it again, I wouldnt waste my time on a motor that I am paying high $$ if I know that I am just replacing all the parts that make it great with aftermarket parts anyway. If you arent planning on replacing all those parts, by all means, just get the K20A


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adirondackR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
best time I have seen on street tires is 12.8-12.9 on a gutted hatch...end of conversation (agreeing with NoBottleJustThrottle)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks