Ok, so I have rounded off one of the 14mm hex plugs on the back of the block. Any ideas on how to get this thing out?

 

is there enough of a lip on the freeze plug to grab it wiht a visegrip?

 

Not really. Is there any way to drill this sucker out with out destroying my block?

 

You could try either using a bolt extractor (you have to drill a hole into the bolt), or you could dremel a slot in the head and use a big flat head screwdriver with some vise-grips/pliers/wrench etc, or you could always hit it with a torch.

 

tough part here is the huge diameter hex plug, with fine threads. couple options... step drill that bitch out, try and save the threads in the block when you get close to the minor thread size of the plug. fab a new hex key to fit the current rounded plug. I'd suggest using hex sockets in the future... if you weren't already.

worst case... drill it all the way out, and find/fabricate a freeze plug to fit.

 

I tried those screw extractor things to no avail. Now I have to do something because it has a hole in it. Yeah I was using hex sockets. I have taken these things out before with no problem. Will there be any problem from the metal flakes falling in the block from drilling it out? If I do mess up the threads do you think one of those rubber expandable freeze plugs will hold?

 

If the block is still in the car then its going to be def a challange. I would trying to hammer a 15 mm hex in, or 14 if you can't get it to fit. Jbweld the piece in there. And let it sit for a few days. Give it a shot after that.

 

What material is the 14mm made of? Got access to a welder? MIG or TIG (depending on material) an allen in there after you hammer it in. You could even weld a 1/2 socket into the hole so you could use a breaker bar to get it. Course these are all last resort options

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigcheese42 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will there be any problem from the metal flakes falling in the block from drilling it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

IF you decide to drill it out, I would recommend taking the oilpan off before doing the drilling.

 

You can just hit it along the outside with a chiesel in a counter clockwise direction, it should come out in a few whacks. Then just replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitrofish420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can just hit it along the outside with a chiesel in a counter clockwise direction, it should come out in a few whacks. Then just replace it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Does this actually work on really tough bolts/nuts? People have always given me this advice and no matter how hard i swing it never seems to work.

 

Well I tried the chiesel method and it didn't work for me. So what I'm thinking now is to tap the hole (1/4 in) I have in it and hondabond a bolt in there. I'm tired of dealing with it and just want to get the motor in the car. Does anybody see a problem with this?

 

Help a brotha out, I have a DE at Barber in a few weeks. Need to get the motor broken in before then. Thanks

 

try cutting a hole big enough to fit a 3/8 or 1/2" ratchet snuggly, then hammer in an extension and have at it. it's really only the initial tq holding those stupdi bolts on, once you break it, they spin right out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does this actually work on really tough bolts/nuts? People have always given me this advice and no matter how hard i swing it never seems to work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It does in some applications. I just had to do that today at work to get the fill plug out of an Accord tranny. It was so tight that the 17mm hex was about to strip off, so I chieseled it counter-clockwise and broke it loose. All it took was breaking it loose and it threaded out by hand the rest of the way. If you've got a rusted bolt or something it probably won't work.