Well I'm comming back to the states in a few weeks from current deployment I'm been wondering a K20A swap I know about the SEARCH button used it didnt get what i was looking for. Im comming back out to Iraq once again sept 06 - april 07 im comming back with around 28k. Im going to pay off my loan with i have 10k left i was wondering about buying a k20a and leave it stock for a while then mild build up cams, valves, valve springs, all know the rest or should i stick with the b18c5 and go for a full built na engine?

K20A Swap is 5600 cheapest i have seen so that would give me about 4400 to put towards the engine.

or

B18C5 go with complete bore stroke bullet proof it head work the whole 9 yards on the car.

But keeping in mind this is a daily driven car. Just wondering what i should do any aspects that i should take in swapping or should i just keep the b18c? Please give me any info you wish to tell.

 

whats your goal with the car? are you trying to reach a certain horsepower range? if its a daily driver, might be better off with a less modified engine, so Id say K20. but thats so much money for just a swap. you could just "bulletproof" the bottom end of the B18C5, slap on a small turbo, and call it a day.

on the other hand, I just read somewhere today about a B18C5 making 242whp all motor. by the way, I think that was on a STOCK head with oversized valves, not even port/polished. I was making about 210 at one point and that was PLENTY for a daily driver.

 

k

 

My goal was for a 220 - 230 whp daily driven but no to aggressive to barely pass the smog. You know how california is strick as hell. I really want to stay NA im not a real turbo fan but i do like the blow off sould LOL

 

i say just build up the C5...
1: it's still a great base motor to work from
2: you'll be able to build it up alot more then you would the K20, you'll be starting out with 10k instead of 4.4K
3: you'll have plenty of money left over from building the C5 that you'll be able to do the suspension exactly like you want, and anything else you've been wanting to do

you have any pictures of your car? what's done to it as of right now??

 

I have a article in the archives with 1 shitty picture parents dont know how to use a digital camera ill be uploading some later. As of mods i bought and had my dad install is, Injen V2 Intake, Spoon Front/Rear Strut Bars & Lower Arms Bars, Sparco Torino 2 Seats with mounts and Takata Racing Harness's

 

Stock motor making around 210-240 Whp with bolt ons, a 6 speed tranny and kinda hard to work on and gets about 30-39 mpg. Or Built B series that you would have to depend on the builder to build the motor correctly and more simplier to work on. Parts are easier to find for sure, aftermarket parts galore. No mount removal required. The list goes on and on. Both have their ups and downs.

 

Been doing a littler more extra research and pricing with k20 and b18c think im probably going to keep the b series and do a spoon/toda/jun mixture on it. Thanks for the feedback guys i really appciate it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Been doing a littler more extra research and pricing with k20 and b18c think im probably going to keep the b series and do a spoon/toda/jun mixture on it. Thanks for the feedback guys i really appciate it</TD></TR></TABLE>

And you think you will pass smog with that ? haha

 

can try but more likely i think im going to have to tip the smog guy a little to much to pass. but if my frined gets smog certified idk he still has like 5 classes left

 

k20 stock over any NA built b....now boosted b is different story!

 

actually i have the HP you are looking for out of my STOCK K20!!!!

 

K20A stock for daily driven for me
+ the fact that if you want a daily driven B motor, you'd probably have a hard time smogging?

Don't quote me on that, but K20A for the win

 

I thought you were building a sleeved block a lil while back?

Just spend the 8-9k it'll take to swap in a K series, on the block you have now...an excellent port and combustion bowl massage will help the R head to flow very well. Match up a set of cams to the compression and driving habits, i.e., power delivery needs and then have a quality header/exhaust built.

then spend the 2k you have left on your tranny. IMO, I would look into an ATS 1st, 3rd and 4th gear...pic up a GSR second while you're at it...keep your fifth for cruising and joo will be set.

But you need to balance the car if you plan on making high powa numbers. Get your suspension and brakes dialed in...(that was my first step...then came powa).

Good luck...but K series has WAY more potential then B series for Allmotor...I've seen some nasty boosted K motors up here too...480 hp 295 torque w/ just pistons/rods...and K pro.

 

i saw a video of a white type r, racing against an e46 m3, and it was killed it, i am pretty sure it wasnt turbo either,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Travis10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i saw a video of a white type r, racing against an e46 m3, and it was killed it, i am pretty sure it wasnt turbo either, </TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHAH...What does this have to with?

Did the R have a C5 or a k20?

 

yup, i like that call Circuit, i also built up my suspension first then motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, i like that call Circuit, i also built up my suspension first then motor</TD></TR></TABLE>


Its very necessary... IMO...its pointless (and dangerous) if you can't properly control the increase in power... understeer? Fading brakes? no thanks...much rather have 120hp to the wheels then either of those episodes...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

HAHAH...What does this have to with?

Did the R have a C5 or a k20? </TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty sure it was "fat bradsterds" car, so a built c5,

 

I have a k20a in my Integra Type-R and I love it!!! It's a different feeling from the b18c.

The k-series engines are smoother than the b-series. You lose some sense of the raw power, but you get more refined power.

I hope I don't sound stupid

 

cltitus, let me tell you a little story:

I have an ef with itr everything, toda cams, ats final drive, but the motor is stock bottom end. It makes 186whp with the cam gears at 0,0 and a baseline tune currently.

My friend has an eg with a k20 swap out of a usdm rsx type s.....

He pulls me like 3 cars in 3rd gear with an extra passenger + rollbar in his car!

Keep in mind that he doesn't have the 5-lug weight that I have in mine, but obviously he's smoking my ***!

Now think about the fact that he's only making 200whp. And think about how much more torque he's making. And think about the fact that he doesn't have the better gearing of the jdm dc5r tranny, nor does he have the extra horsepower that comes from the jdm compression + cams + IM, etc.....

And think about the fact that he can pass emissions by plugging in the obd2 data port.....

I think your choice is clear: k20a!
(You live in cali, so really you have no choice! It's obvious!)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep in mind that he doesn't have the 5-lug weight that I have in mine, but obviously he's smoking my ***!</TD></TR></TABLE>

That 5-lug weight alone is like 4,000lbs. *gosh*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And think about the fact that he can pass emissions by plugging in the obd2 data port.....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is my main concern about a K20 swap. Here in NY, for inspection, they plug into your OBD port and the whole thing takes less than 5 minutes. I'm not sure if I'd pass if the DMV recieves the data that says they scanned the registration of a 98 ITR but are getting ECU info from a 2003 RSXS or whatever (on a sidenote, are JDM K20 R motors OBD2 "plugable"?)

 

MY PERSONAL OPINION IS FIGURE OUT WHICH WAY YOU WANT TO GO WITH THE WHOLE THING.....N/A...OR...BOOST. JUST SIT DOWN FIGURE WHAT YOU WANT TO DO WITH IT AND HOW YOU WANT TO USE IT WHEN IT'S DONE TO FIGURE WHAT TYPE OF DRIVING STYLE YOU LIKE BEST. AUTO-CROSS? OR STRIP/STAIGHT LINE?

 

Your power goals are easily achievable on a B-series platform. I had a spare B18C block built by Benson/Earl Laskey last spring, and I am extremely happy with the build. I am making 222whp/150tq as of now, and that is still with an unported ITR head, stock ITR intake manifold, ITR throttlebody and ITR intake arm!

However, you will not retain the usability of your OBD2 port if you decide to use the common tuning tools, ie: Hondata, Crome, Neptune....

With a K-series swap, you can use Hondata's K-Pro and still retain the OBD2 port functionality (I believe).

You can piece together a Kswap cheaper than you might actually think. Personally, I would go with the K24, becaues you can get some rediculous power with a completely stock motor internally. Source a K24 block, a DC5R head, DC5R tranny, the necessary axles/wireing harness and mounts can all be purchased from Hasport. K-pro is the only way to tune, and you will still have enough money leftover for a good header, intake manifold, and cams. Those three boltons are good for over 250whp and 200tq!

If you want a little more info on my build, chech out this thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1523438

Or visit my site,

http://www.ITRspec.com