1987 Accord automatic stalling?!
Today I went out at night to move my car, and I put it in reverse (its a automatic). I back 3 car lengths then my car stalls.
How does a automatic car stall? Whats the problem?
Thanks Brian
How does a automatic car stall? Whats the problem?
Thanks Brian
86-89 Accords with stalling problems many times turned out to be defective PCV valves. The plastic check valve inside is usually missing(don't rely on the "rattle" test) remove the valve and inpect it to see if the check valve is missing. Lots of "ifs" here though......did the car restart? does it run okay above idle?....
*excessive oil burning is another clue to a bad PCV.
*excessive oil burning is another clue to a bad PCV.
Did it restart, does it do this with any regularity?
The reason I ask, is that the Carbureted Accord has issues unlike that of a FI vehicle and a little more info might help.
When was the inline fuel filter last changed?
etc
P
The reason I ask, is that the Carbureted Accord has issues unlike that of a FI vehicle and a little more info might help.
When was the inline fuel filter last changed?
etc
P
Its a
1987 Carburated Honda Accord
I have some transmission problems, like passengers in my car think im driving a stick when the transmission switches gears even though its a automatic.
and there this light on my Gauge flashing "BRAKE LIGHT" its annoying and my brake lights work perfectly fine.
and my brakes are pretty loose, I got to step in deep to use the brakes and yes it burns oil. The mechanic fixed the Metal Head Gasket to help prevent any more oil burns, but I guess it didn't work.
but damn with 230,000 miles this car is a tank, Love Hondas, I know way more domestic cars newer then mine with twice the more problems.
1987 Carburated Honda Accord
I have some transmission problems, like passengers in my car think im driving a stick when the transmission switches gears even though its a automatic.
and there this light on my Gauge flashing "BRAKE LIGHT" its annoying and my brake lights work perfectly fine.
and my brakes are pretty loose, I got to step in deep to use the brakes and yes it burns oil. The mechanic fixed the Metal Head Gasket to help prevent any more oil burns, but I guess it didn't work.
but damn with 230,000 miles this car is a tank, Love Hondas, I know way more domestic cars newer then mine with twice the more problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IBriaIN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a 1987 Carburated Honda Accord
Q1) I have some transmission problems, like passengers in my car think im driving a stick when the transmission switches gears even though its a automatic.
Q2) There (is) this light on my Gauge flashing "BRAKE LIGHT" its annoying and my brake lights work perfectly fine.
Q3) My brakes are pretty loose, I got to step in deep to use the brakes
Q4) It burns oil. The mechanic fixed the Metal Head Gasket to help prevent any more oil burns, but I guess it didn't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A1) Have the Transmission fluid changed (Use Honda ATF). I've seen worst straighten right out)
A2) Check the Fluid Level in the Brake Master Cylinder if it's the Ebrake lamp winking at you. If it's the bulb out warning system, you've most likely got a corroded lamp socket (in the rear) which intermittantly looses connection with the bulb.
A3) Your rear brakes need adjustment (the shoes retract too far away from the drum) and you have to make up that distance by pushing furthur b4 they engage.
A4) Sometimes the piston rings get stuck in their grooves and don't control oil and compression like they should try this.
Purchase either a can of SeaFoam or GM Top Engine Cleaner (PN# 1050002). remove all four spark plugs and pour equal amounts into each combustion chamber and let sit for at least three hours.
Go get a coffee
Entertain the GF or significant other
Go get a beer, anything - just go away for three hours.
Cycle the engine several times to evacuate the excess cleaner and reinstall the plugs. Roll the car outside and start the car. You're going to enjoy a re-enactment of a WW2 Destroyer's putting a smoke screen down (that's why I suggested putting the car outside) so get ready for the Fire Dept etc.
What you've most likely got is the piston rings have gummed up in their lands and have stopped conforming to the cylinders. This will free them up.
You didn't answer my questions with regerds to your stalling condition
P
Q1) I have some transmission problems, like passengers in my car think im driving a stick when the transmission switches gears even though its a automatic.
Q2) There (is) this light on my Gauge flashing "BRAKE LIGHT" its annoying and my brake lights work perfectly fine.
Q3) My brakes are pretty loose, I got to step in deep to use the brakes
Q4) It burns oil. The mechanic fixed the Metal Head Gasket to help prevent any more oil burns, but I guess it didn't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A1) Have the Transmission fluid changed (Use Honda ATF). I've seen worst straighten right out)
A2) Check the Fluid Level in the Brake Master Cylinder if it's the Ebrake lamp winking at you. If it's the bulb out warning system, you've most likely got a corroded lamp socket (in the rear) which intermittantly looses connection with the bulb.
A3) Your rear brakes need adjustment (the shoes retract too far away from the drum) and you have to make up that distance by pushing furthur b4 they engage.
A4) Sometimes the piston rings get stuck in their grooves and don't control oil and compression like they should try this.
Purchase either a can of SeaFoam or GM Top Engine Cleaner (PN# 1050002). remove all four spark plugs and pour equal amounts into each combustion chamber and let sit for at least three hours.
Go get a coffee
Entertain the GF or significant other
Go get a beer, anything - just go away for three hours.
Cycle the engine several times to evacuate the excess cleaner and reinstall the plugs. Roll the car outside and start the car. You're going to enjoy a re-enactment of a WW2 Destroyer's putting a smoke screen down (that's why I suggested putting the car outside) so get ready for the Fire Dept etc.
What you've most likely got is the piston rings have gummed up in their lands and have stopped conforming to the cylinders. This will free them up.
You didn't answer my questions with regerds to your stalling condition
P
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did it restart, does it do this with any regularity?
The reason I ask, is that the Carbureted Accord has issues unlike that of a FI vehicle and a little more info might help.
When was the inline fuel filter last changed?
etc
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
No this just happened last night for the first time, I don't know when my inline fuel filter was last changed. How do I Cycle the engine and change my transmission fluid and change the inline fuel filter and adjust my rear brakes. Its been awhile since I worked on cars only thing I remember now is changing brakes and changing the oil,, forgot everything from the Porsche dealership where my ROP placed me. My dad usually takes car of this car since he bought it. "My money, my car"
.
Im just patiently waiting for the R. But I don't know if this car can last that long
The reason I ask, is that the Carbureted Accord has issues unlike that of a FI vehicle and a little more info might help.
When was the inline fuel filter last changed?
etc
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
No this just happened last night for the first time, I don't know when my inline fuel filter was last changed. How do I Cycle the engine and change my transmission fluid and change the inline fuel filter and adjust my rear brakes. Its been awhile since I worked on cars only thing I remember now is changing brakes and changing the oil,, forgot everything from the Porsche dealership where my ROP placed me. My dad usually takes car of this car since he bought it. "My money, my car"
. Im just patiently waiting for the R. But I don't know if this car can last that long
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If I am not mistaken the carb has three screws on it for adjusting idle one for the car in park one for it in gear and one for it with the AC on. Get one of the cheap shop manuals from like autozone or advance auto and it should have the procedure for adjusting the idle screws if there isnt any plaque under the hood that tells you how to do it.
IF.....you find the brake fluid low...remove the brake booster hose and see if there's any sign of brake fluid in the hose. This could be all your problems being caused by a leaking rear seal in the master cyl. If it damaged the booster seal you could have a bad internal vacuum leak. Just a thought but I'd be checking it out!
What else, When I brake at a stop light, the engine rattles like its going to stall, but it dosen't and my front right brake makes that werid sound, not a sound where I need a brake change but the clamp is going on and off even though Im braking. Just wanted to point that out. It been bothering me for months.
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Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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