ok, so now im kinda in game, still slow D15B vtec SOHC, but its a start(better than D15b7 NON vtec ) . Just posting to see if anyone could give me advise suggestios to cheap/free mods to add power. Or mods that I could do to make my daily driver a lot more fun!

so far i got: intake with REAL K&N filter, Exhaust Header 4-1 full length, stock cat 2.25 stainless steal mandrel bent exhaust, resonator, Magnaflow muffler (not fart can) to exhaust tip), Ported my intake mannifold. 5w-30 castrol syntec motor oil, cheap *** ebay coilovers., all 5 motor mounts are SOLID!

Now, I just did the swap and this week ,so Vtec isnt wired up,ill be buying a P28 chipped and wiring Vtec up.


I suppose I could get Eureathane bushings like steering rack bushings or something.


Any suggestions?

I know I know everyone is going to say B O O S T

 

There's nothing else you can do. The next step is to force induce it. N2O, turbo or supercharger.

 

OBX intake mannifold?


Guess i coould get into wiehgt reduction.

possibly lighter flywheel, crank pulley, better clutch.

 

Just get the vtec working and tune the hell out of it... thos are the only other cheap mods left that i can think of. Also do you have the Si tranny? the si/ex tranny make a pretty good diffrence in the D-series. i would also recoment a light weight flywheel like the guy above me said already... thats about it. (that i can think of)

 

If you havent already you could remove the power steering and a/c, those will free up a few ponys. I do see that it is your daily driver, so those two things might not be what your looking for...

 

Maybe advance your timing a little bit, take out your ac and power steering (less parasitic drag + weight reduction) You could also do some weight reuction from the front seats back.

These are all free\cheap mods that could net you about 15 - 20 combined HP.

Also some people put ground kits on their car and claim 6-10 horse power. I put a kit on my car and only noticed an increase in throttle response and better reception in my radio, my car also quit zapping me when I touched the door.

 

clutch clutch clutch!!!!!! i have a d15b myself and if u wantr anymore power get a clutch first. i have a 75 shot and that piece of **** slips nasty when i shift to 2nd so much that i need to let off the gas for it to grip

 

Manual steering/ A/C delete Done! Guess i could grab one of them Under drive pulleys for like 40 bux shipped.

I got some 4 gauge wire laying around , guess ill do some ground wire mod.

thank you guys for all the suggestions!

 

I did ALL my motor mounts and torque mounts SOLID and they made quite a bit difference!

 

So anyone got an idea of how Strong the bottom end in these JDM d15B's? I may boost it do like 6 psi daily.

 

you should be fine on a good d15b bottom at 6psi but it would deff not go over 8psi

 

My buddy ran his D16A JDM motor with 8-12 psi daily for about a year in half no problems, sold the motor however to get a GSR B18C.

 

If it was me ide pull the upper oil pan and change the connecting rod bearings before I boosted it. It only cost like 20 bucks for all four bearings and 5 hours time (if that) and its a good idea to freshen up the bottom end a little before you go stressing it out.

 

true that, I totally agree, with some ARP Rod bolts

 

on the street not much u can do to help yourself out. at the track you could just yank everything outta the car including from cat back, seats, carpet, tar, any tools/jacks, and then, ive seen lightweight batteries that weigh sumtin like 7lbs, adjustable fpr worked nice for me, pretty much everything else people said.

then u can get another head and work it, and once ur ready to turbo it u already got a nice breathing head.

 

what about one of those lawn mower batteries they are pretty small you think we could use those in cars?

 

Maybe - if the CCA (cold cranking amps) are high enough. I think a motercycle battery would be more logical.

 

Didn't I hear somewhere that the Integra throttle body swap was worth doing?

 

i happen to have a turbo,manifold,and arp head studs sitting right here....i may be doing a f22 swap so i wont need these....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nx2kjl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe advance your timing a little bit</TD></TR></TABLE>

just to let you know... it all depends on where u like your powerband.. if you want more tourqe less top end.. advance it.. if you want more top end 5-fuel cut retard it... dont go crazy with it either... if u advance it maybe just like 1 or 2 degrees.. same with retard.. i have a dohc zc with zc tranny halfshalfts and everything.. i run it with the ignition timing retarted 2 almost 3 degrees..i usually drive in the upper scale of the rpms with my canyon driving and stuff....

but its all personal preferance... where you like your powerband....

oh ya.. i had a single cam vtec with a b16 9k rev limit ecu disabled knock sensor had the timing all the way retarted.. and it pulled like all hell all the way to 9.. if it was advanced at all...i would have maybe seen 8 maybe

 

lemme know tony, well work something out...