I believe my car is starting to make some "clicking noises" in the paddock which I suspect may be CV joints getting worn. I am a "cookbook" mechanic so I don't know a whole lot. I did a search on this topic but based on my shitty luck in not doing reposts I probably missed a thread on it made today!

My question is what should I be doing to prolong the life of my CV joints on my B18c dedicated track car? What do you more mechanically inclined folks do? Also is Raxles good cv joints? TIA. If this is a recent repost I will ****.

Barry H.

 

Get the latest issue of grassroots.

And if its clicking, get a new one.

 

if its clicking it most likely done..

Buy a good quality axle and call it a day.. I bought a set from Raxles.com. I have had them in my car for 3 years now of track days/racing. still going strong!

 

How often do you guys re-pack them with new grease? Anyone using the Redline cv grease or just regular stuff?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew240z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How often do you guys re-pack them with new grease? Anyone using the Redline cv grease or just regular stuff?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is my question. Catch, yep I got the GRM issue the other day. I saw about keeping the boot clean but didn't know am I suppose to be "regreasing" the CV boots and when. I remember RJ talking about no Nike contacts because he has greasy hands in the paddock from CV grease. Well at least that is his story. LOL.

Barry H.

 

I use remans on both the Accord and CRX. Had one reman fail on the Accord, but that was because the shop that put it on botched it up. Of course they are both autox cars, so the stress is different from track cars.

 

I buy axles that come with a lifetime warranty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I buy axles that come with a lifetime warranty.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So do a few of my competitors.. on one car alone I have seen them change 4-5 axles over the last 2 years.. I have yet to change one..

To be honest I have not repacked mine since I bought them. I know they came packed with a synthetic grease (I think it was a motul grease). I *might* repack them this year..

 

I have not re-packed mine yet. We are using Honda axles and have not had a failure yet. I did put a new set in before the 12 hour last year. I probably could have just re-packed the old ones.....

 

Then what is RJ REALLY doing with all that CV "grease" on his hands at the track? Little Ponies want to know. LMAO.

Barry H.

 

Introducing RJ, for all your "packing" your needs.

 

:middle finger:

beat me to it...

 

Meh, I've changed only 1 axle on the crx in the past 2 years, it was a honda axle. I've changed 1 axle on the itr in 5 years, it was a honda axle. So far both reman'd axles are holding up to heavy track use. That's just my personal experience, I'm sure other people have different experiences. If a reman'd axle does fail, it's readily available at the local parts store so there's almost zero down time to swap it out.

 

You should always have a spare set of axles, each side. I have 3 sets. I switch them about half season, then send that set out to be rebuilt. Axles take quite a lot of punishment. Don't want to wait until you hear "clicking" ....If you are going to reboot and regrease make sure you use a good grease i.e synthetic....I don't think it's worth the trouble to do it myself....

 

what about the company Raxles? Good people? Worth the price? I think about $320for a set of two that are "special" for hybrids. They use the redline grease which I hear is good stuff for CVs.

http://www.raxles.com/hybrids.aspx

Barry H.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxx44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should always have a spare set of axles, each side. I have 3 sets. I switch them about half season, then send that set out to be rebuilt. Axles take quite a lot of punishment. Don't want to wait until you hear "clicking" ....If you are going to reboot and regrease make sure you use a good grease i.e synthetic....I don't think it's worth the trouble to do it myself....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you saying specifically don't use the grease that comes with a factory boot replacement kit if you want the best longevity?

Dan

P.S. On-topic: I rebuilt an axle and the tie bands for the inner joint seem to have no fastening mechanism? Anybody know how you're supposed to fasten these smooth ties? I ended up just using the old ones.

 

I never replace boots/joints.. Like Phil said, its totally not worth the time. 69$ for autozone GCK brand axles WITH brand new joints (not remans) after core.

Raxles are good axles as well, with GREAT service..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a good quality axle and call it a day.. I bought a set from Raxles.com. I have had them in my car for 3 years now of track days/racing. still going strong! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've got Raxels, too. Had them ever since we swapped the B18 in. Still going strong. Probably been 5+ years now, two of those track/race only...

 

I know eveyone uses Raxles......except me and a whole bunch of others who use DriveShaft Shop.......incredible product

 

Damn, how did I get dragged into this......

NAPA sells new (not reman) axles for $90 or so. No core, no hassle. I'm using them, and have 3 oem (2 driver, 1 passenger) as backup that need replacing of their boots.

While on the topic, how hard is it to pull them apart and repack with a new boot?

 

On a somewhat related topic. Is there anyway to keep all the grease from flying out of the axles and lubricating my entire chassis? I don't know if it is bad luck or not but both Hondas I have raced/run track events in do this. As I am a neat freak I find it very lame.

 

With the proper banding tool, and bands, not to bad.. Its just a stupid mess that I HATE! And would rather just buy a new axle...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, how did I get dragged into this......

NAPA sells new (not reman) axles for $90 or so. No core, no hassle. I'm using them, and have 3 oem (2 driver, 1 passenger) as backup that need replacing of their boots.

While on the topic, how hard is it to pull them apart and repack with a new boot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bought an axle from NAPA and it had stiff spots in the outer joint. So I exchanged it... and the replacement also had stiff spots in the outer joint. They told me their axles were remanufactured, and that any axle I can buy is actually a reman.

So I bought some axles off a part-out car on H-T, which have never been torn and have lower miles. I'm replacing the boots, and I'll be swapping them in once that's done. In other words, the joints have never suffered damage.

There's an article in the current GRM about CV joints and boots, and in the section "keeping them alive" (p. 116) it describes the remanufacturing process. After reading that, I think I will never buy a reman axle again.

Edit: Pulling the boots off and replacing them is a very messy process and I can't say it's much fun. I did it and I'll do it again, but I can do so at my convenience because I'm working on spares, and my car is perfectly driveable in the meantime.

Dan