for those who told me to take it off, i have to say ya full of bullshit. first of all, my car is running nice with 8 pound of boost. for the timing thing, my friend at a turbocharge shop, installed a fuel pressure regulator, and forced more fuel in both low and high cams. which mean that there is plenty of fuel for the car to run with. now the only problem is that in low cams the car is flooded with fuel, so that is creating a problem when starting the car. now, i ma install a 3 inch straigh exhaust, so the engine wont be so flooded,(that's what he told me to do). i know it wont solve the problem but it will help the engine

in addition, the only reason why he is flooding the engine, is because the ******* timing of the ******* car is controlled by the ECU as all ya know. my though was to install a 12:1, Vortech FMU, so i wont have problem with the fuel and the stock injectors, and the stock ECU. However, he told me that the FMU wont keep the engine with as much fuel as it needs regarding the timing problem. meaning, less fuel, ECU is in limp mode b/c of the boost, BLOW ENGINE. However, im not sure about this information he gave concerning the FMU, so can anyone confirm?

Now, for the timing problem, i dont have 1g for an AEM EMS. i dont know if the Greedy will work on it, and chipping the stock one is not a choiceb/c it wont do nothing to the timing. DOES ANYBODY GOT ANY IDEA?

Another thing, for the MAP sensor, would anybody send me the rigth explonation on how to do a "check valves"system, where to purchase the tools, and where does it really goes. b/c the mechanic did one, but i dont quiet think that is the way it suppose to be done. there is hose all over the engine, and there is a screw where the MAP sensor used to be, and the MAP sensor is hanging on one of those hose, which connects to the intake manyfold, through more cables and brass "T". it does have 3 check valves, however, the check engine ligth still on. the mechanic says is b/c of the fuel thing.

please send the explanation with the illustration of the "check valve".

 

its a bit hard to read!

reset the ecu then start the car, .....any check eng. lights?

take ur BOV off, so you get no boost....

replace the check valve with a missing link!

check the timing with a timing gun!
make sure the timing belt is set correctly, and then check ign. timing!

do things slow and one at a time...do add any thing more to the car till you get thing sorted out!...good luck

 

You need to buy a obd2 odd1 harness and a chipped p28 ecu.Then run one of the free ecu tuning programs like crome or uberdata.Either one can adjust your timing and with an experienced tuner nail your air fuel ratio to a nice 12:1 no rich no lean and no crazy timing advance putting a rod through your block.

The people telling you to take all the turbo parts off were just looking out for you.Everyone on here knows how bad it sucks to work really hard to buy something you love and then lose it from some bad decisions.


And I'll throw you a small bone.Forced induction is car guy code for turbo.I know I didn't believe it when I was first told myself but it's the truth.Thier are alot Of nice and smart people in a forum named forced induction on this very site.Just pop in there sometime and read a few posts my be even the faq.
Just remember nobody wants to hear that you tore up your car.We like pics posted of big hp dyno runs.

 

ok, dude, you're running around turbocharged, with NO fuel management, except your fuel pressure bumped up to hell and check valves on the map sensor?

put the keys down and <u>don't drive that thing</u> until you have some management or that motor isn't going to last 2 weeks.

EMS, e-manange, hell even an AFC or FMU is better than what you're doing right now.

I personally would never take my car back to the guy who set it up that way, he obviously doesn't care if your car survives, either that or he doesn't have a clue what he's doing.

 

^ i agree. dude, I have had a turbo 6th gen now for three years. I looked at all the cheap ways out, but they aren't worth it. I got myself a Hondata s200 and p28 ecu for about 500 bucks and got it tuned by a hondata dealer for about another 300 bucks. my air/fuel ratio is perfect ALL THE TIME and the timing is set properly. By putting a check valve between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor the guy has essentially prevented the MAP from seeing boost. That is why he put the screw in the place where the map was, because he needed to put the valve between it and the sensor. I can't personally believe your car is still in one peice. the reason your car doesn't idle worth **** is because your fuel pressure is cranked through the roof and your map sensor is seeing completely screwed up air pressures inside the manifold.

you won't be making good power the way you're set up and you certainly won't be driving your car for much longer. I have experience with this car and this engine (not as built as notorius up there, but same principles apply) Emanage is another viable option, but it will cost you as much or more than a p28 and either hondata or uberdata. (uberdata is free-ish, remember that) ANY WAY YOU GO, THE CAR NEEDS TO BE TUNED BY SOMEONE WHO CARES, AND KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING!