Valve Adjustment Issues, B18C1, Adjustable Cam Gears and TDC, CTR cams ...
Screw the long post I had before ... straight to the question:
The effects of my stupidity:
rough idle, popping consistently, when #3 fires I believe, valve ticking.
What I've screwed up on:
Method of finding TDC: Sometimes cranking clockwise to get TDC after going past (when turning CCW).
Not removing the spark plugs, causing my above issue.
What I've done right:
Adjustment of valve clearance.
Is turning the crank clockwise causing an inaccurate position of the piston relative to the cams meaning when adjusted, some valves will be inaccurate?
Modified by jklobo at 2:55 PM 2/28/2006
The effects of my stupidity:
rough idle, popping consistently, when #3 fires I believe, valve ticking.
What I've screwed up on:
Method of finding TDC: Sometimes cranking clockwise to get TDC after going past (when turning CCW).
Not removing the spark plugs, causing my above issue.
What I've done right:
Adjustment of valve clearance.
Is turning the crank clockwise causing an inaccurate position of the piston relative to the cams meaning when adjusted, some valves will be inaccurate?
Modified by jklobo at 2:55 PM 2/28/2006
In case anyone gives a crap ...
Removed spark plugs
Rotated crank slowly and precisely
Readjusted tolerances on all intake valves, #3 exhaust valves
Replaced spark plugs (two were separated from the nut and wobbling)
Everything kosher now.
Lesson learned: DO NOT ROTATE CRANK CLOCKWISE TO COMPENSATE, DON'T BE LAZY, JUST REMOVE THE F*ING SPARK PLUGS.
After two days of non-success, it took approximately 40 minutes to do it.
Removed spark plugs
Rotated crank slowly and precisely
Readjusted tolerances on all intake valves, #3 exhaust valves
Replaced spark plugs (two were separated from the nut and wobbling)

Everything kosher now.
Lesson learned: DO NOT ROTATE CRANK CLOCKWISE TO COMPENSATE, DON'T BE LAZY, JUST REMOVE THE F*ING SPARK PLUGS.
After two days of non-success, it took approximately 40 minutes to do it.
I have always used this article with my cam spec's to do my valve adjustment, thank you c-speed racing
Yeah, that write up is really good.
Most detailed that I've seen.
I can't believe I was such a f*ing tard the first two days ... Another thing I'm definitely doing for next time, investing in the valve adjustment tool from snap-on or someone else.
Most detailed that I've seen.I can't believe I was such a f*ing tard the first two days ... Another thing I'm definitely doing for next time, investing in the valve adjustment tool from snap-on or someone else.
In your situation, I would remove the timing belt, set both the crank and the cams to TDC and reinstall the timing belt (good oppurtunity to replace the timing belt). Then set your valve lash. Intak is .006 and exhaust is .008. Do you have a manual for this?
Also, make sure to recheck your clearances after you've torqued the nuts...more often then not, the clearances will change so you will have to adjust again...There are specialized adjustment tools and torque wrenchs for this, also.
yea, C-speedracing.com is a pretty goot site, huh?
Also, make sure to recheck your clearances after you've torqued the nuts...more often then not, the clearances will change so you will have to adjust again...There are specialized adjustment tools and torque wrenchs for this, also.
yea, C-speedracing.com is a pretty goot site, huh?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In your situation, I would remove the timing belt, set both the crank and the cams to TDC and reinstall the timing belt (good oppurtunity to replace the timing belt). Then set your valve lash. Intak is .006 and exhaust is .008. Do you have a manual for this?
Also, make sure to recheck your clearances after you've torqued the nuts...more often then not, the clearances will change so you will have to adjust again...There are specialized adjustment tools and torque wrenchs for this, also.
yea, C-speedracing.com is a pretty goot site, huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is good advice. I would worry about the timing belt tension being affected by the reverse rotation.
Also, make sure to recheck your clearances after you've torqued the nuts...more often then not, the clearances will change so you will have to adjust again...There are specialized adjustment tools and torque wrenchs for this, also.
yea, C-speedracing.com is a pretty goot site, huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>This is good advice. I would worry about the timing belt tension being affected by the reverse rotation.
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Thanks for the advice. Went in for a readjust this morning ...
Although I didn't remove the timing belt, I did adjust the cam gears back to 0/0 (for smog reasons) and verified the TDC position.
The reason I went back in to adjust is because you recommended .008 for exhaust, I went in and adjusted the exhaust side and checked the intake side and found one that was a little too tight and one that I couldn't get the .006 gauge into.
Needless to say when I started the car it ran much better than it ever had before. I will be doing the timing belt pretty soon and I'll definitely be using your how-to at c-speed.
Although I didn't remove the timing belt, I did adjust the cam gears back to 0/0 (for smog reasons) and verified the TDC position.
The reason I went back in to adjust is because you recommended .008 for exhaust, I went in and adjusted the exhaust side and checked the intake side and found one that was a little too tight and one that I couldn't get the .006 gauge into.
Needless to say when I started the car it ran much better than it ever had before. I will be doing the timing belt pretty soon and I'll definitely be using your how-to at c-speed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KPN8CLN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ones again, why do i need to remove spark plugs? and why i cant turn clockwise?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Turning the motor clockwise can loosen the timing belt and cause it to jump time. Look at how the belt route is designed. Turning it backwards puts excess force on the tensioner.
Turning the motor clockwise can loosen the timing belt and cause it to jump time. Look at how the belt route is designed. Turning it backwards puts excess force on the tensioner.
I guess I got lucky, then. Because all my marks still line up, TDC crank with cam gear marks.
Is it still a good idea to reset the tension on the timing belt?
Is it still a good idea to reset the tension on the timing belt?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jklobo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I got lucky, then. Because all my marks still line up, TDC crank with cam gear marks.
Is it still a good idea to reset the tension on the timing belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would reset the tension. It isn't difficult.
Is it still a good idea to reset the tension on the timing belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would reset the tension. It isn't difficult.
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