a local guy is trying to organize a group buy of open deck trailers as seen on ebay, the stack of 4

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...75333

does anyone have any experience or comments about these? seems like a good deal for someone who uses their trailer for 5-6 weekends per summer

 

only problem I see is that they don't have the electric brake axels. It's a 135.00 upgrade.
Other than that, if you can get 3 other people to go in with you, 935 is a great price for a trailer!

 

I belive those come with used worn out tires.

Edo

 

yeah the brake upgrade is a must

it says that they come with "good used tires" though one person's opinion of good tires may be quite different from another's

thanks for the input so far, anyone else?

 

the group buy hardly looks worth it unless it is a delivery issue. the individual trailers are only $45 more in his ebay store.

i prefer the ones without the side rails since it is usually easier to get the doors open. my first trailer was 16' with brakes, no side rails and was pretty good. the other ones he has with the extra 2' of beaver tail and with the brakes does not look too bad either.

if you have anything real low (lowered car or spoiler), it is hard to get on the trailer without having to jack the front up quite a bit. i wished i would have had the beavertail for that length of trailer.

tom

 

There are a couple of issues:

1. No brakes. You need brakes on at least 1 axle. If the car is over 2000lbs I'd suggest dual axle brakes.
2. No beaver tail. Trust me, it's going to be a bitch to load a lowered car on one of those.
3. Used tires. My trailer came with brand new tires and its about to need new ones after just 4 seasons.

Don't cheap out on a trailer, you'll regret it later.
Spend about $1600 to $2000 and get dual electric brakes, welded on D rings, a nice long beaver tail, and removable fenders so you can open the car doors. TRUST ME. If you cheap out on one you will grow to HATE it in a very short period of time. Mine has all of the above except the removable fenders and even just without that sometimes its a huge PITA. If I get the car on the trailer 3 inches too far to the left, I can't get the door open far enough to get out of the damned car. If I crawl out the window and leave it open, I just guaranteed rain on the trip.

Scott, who has started looking for someone to modify that driver's side trailer fender so I can take it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mine has all of the above except the removable fenders and even just without that sometimes its a huge PITA.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Boost the deck height with treated 2" x 10" runners = no more cussin'.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Track rat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Boost the deck height with treated 2" x 10" runners = no more cussin'. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've considered that, but I have this nice fully diamond plated deck that has been used for other things like moving appliances and lawn mowers. If I can get the fender rigged with a hinge and a latch, I can just flip it up and easily open the door.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Track rat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Boost the deck height with treated 2" x 10" runners = no more cussin'. </TD></TR></TABLE>

but this adds to the requirement for the beavertail \ approach length and angle. i had done something similar and the door issue was slightly better but it made it harder to get the car loaded when lowered.

also, check out what you are going to do for ramps and where you are going to store them.

for me, the brakes on one axle was enough when towing my '85 CRX with an Astro minivan. anything more and the second set of axle brakes would have been nice.

tom

 

I would be interested if they didnt have that side rail.

As for the tires, as long as they get me home, Ill be happy.. Or I would spring for the new ones if they offered it.

As for the brakes, I agree with Scott! Even with my 1000lbs car, I want dual axle brakes!

 

With the used tires- make sure they are at least used trailer tires and not car tires or better yet, budget for new, trailer tires. Most car trailers are not rated for trailer work and will be more challenging when towing.

 

I'm pretty sure this is the same company that my father purchased a custom built 3 axle trailer from several years back. The trailer itself was excellent and well constructed, typically seeing loads beyond double it's limit (my dad moves houses). When we picked it up we opted for "used" tires. They were weight rated bias ply trailer tires with acceptable tread that did last for better than a years use. The down side was they were an odd size impossible to replace with a matching circumference, so once one went, all six had to go. If their attitude is anything like that of the past I'm sure you could give them a call and they'll be happy to help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've considered that, but I have this nice fully diamond plated deck that has been used for other things like moving appliances and lawn mowers. If I can get the fender rigged with a hinge and a latch, I can just flip it up and easily open the door.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My trick was to not use full length runners. My fenders were low enough that just a short section of board under the front wheel gave me enough clearance to et the door open. It also served the purpose of telling me when I had the car in the proper place on the trailer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Scott, who has started looking for someone to modify that driver's side trailer fender so I can take it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably not possible, but on our race car trailer we lowered the mounting points on the fender so it was below the bottom of the door. This was with a Barracuda drag car though so it might be a little different with a road race Honda. Check the clearence between the tire and fender though and see if you have any room to worth with if you only need a couple inches.

Then again, when we loaded a stock 240 on the trailer the door barely opened so i know my crx would be out of question.

 

While I don't own a car trailer I do have lots of experience with boat trailers. I currently own a 21' Sea Pro open fisherman with a T top. Fully fueled and loaded it weighs in at around 2700 lb. I can tell from experience - NEVER- use passenger car tires on a utility trailer especially one you are going to tow for more than a couple of miles. Trailer tires have thicker/stiffer sidewalls to help dissapate the heat from the increased friction. They also are generally narrower to help with manuerablity/fuel economy. Passenger car tires will overheat and fail possibly causing to lose control of your load.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti Rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">causing to lose control of your load.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

mmh heh heh heh

 

hahaha. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1gCRX90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mmh heh heh heh

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