Just got my shipment from Amsoil for my next oil change. How many of you guys use Amsoil 10W30? I know that its been tested to be pretty much the best synthetic out there? Just want your guys opinions

 

I run Royal Purple when i'm not lazy to go drive and get it. Otherwise it's Mobil1. Heard good stuff about Amsoil though.

 

You can't beat it. I use Amsoil 10w-30 in both the Honda Challenge K-powered H1 car and the S2000. Great stuff.

Before that, I used only it in the H2 ITR with the stock B18C5.

 

amsoil 90-140 goes in my LSD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Back in Black &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't beat it. I use Amsoil 10w-30 in both the Honda Challenge K-powered H1 car and the S2000. Great stuff.

Before that, I used only it in the H2 ITR with the stock B18C5.</TD></TR></TABLE>

after a 3 hour oil change....(i cant even start to explain how i ripped a oil filter in half....seriously in half) engine sounds alot smoother, feels smoother.

 

I use Amsoil 0w40 for at least 50000 and it is good stuff.

Oil level holds steady, and it makes the engine much smoother running, to the point that you can immediately tell the difference.

Actually when I put it in TSX, took me a while to tell if the engine was actually running...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chubzilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after a 3 hour oil change....(i cant even start to explain how i ripped a oil filter in half....seriously in half) engine sounds alot smoother, feels smoother.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bad day?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revvin9k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bad day?</TD></TR></TABLE>

u could say that, i dont know how but, the grips on the end of the filter (where you would put one fo those ratchet adapters on ..round black thing) well it was definitly the right size. So i go to loosen the filter and it stripped those square notches on the end of the filter..no big deal ill just fo get my awl and pop a hole through both sides and stick a screw driver through it. Put the screw driver through, go to turn...ripppppp. Did even budge and I was easily ripping the metal, this went on hor the next hour until was literally left with 1-2 inches of the filter. I finalyl was able to get it off using the same method but with almost no filter left....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chubzilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u could say that, i dont know how but, the grips on the end of the filter (where you would put one fo those ratchet adapters on ..round black thing) well it was definitly the right size. So i go to loosen the filter and it stripped those square notches on the end of the filter..no big deal ill just fo get my awl and pop a hole through both sides and stick a screw driver through it. Put the screw driver through, go to turn...ripppppp. Did even budge and I was easily ripping the metal, this went on hor the next hour until was literally left with 1-2 inches of the filter. I finalyl was able to get it off using the same method but with almost no filter left....</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, I did thee same thing on my mother in laws Jimmy.

 

I use ASL 5W30 in all my cars.

 

I run Amsoil 10w30 in my car and it sounds and runs very smooth. Worth the extra $$ for sure!

Tyler


Modified by S2tripleO at 3:20 PM 8/17/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S2tripleO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run Amsoil 10w10 in my car and it sounds and runs very smooth.
Tyler</TD></TR></TABLE>

10w10 would make it SAE 10 static weight...

Used AMSOIL. Good stuff.

 

Oops...typo

 

there is no difference between 5w30 and 10w30 once the car is at operating temperature.

5w30

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL)

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
10.6

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
57.3

Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
178

CCS Viscosity @ -30°C, cP (ASTM D-2602)
5254

Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97)
-50 (-58)

Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92)
228 (442)

Four Ball Wear Test
(ASTM D-4172B: 40 kgf, 75°C, 1200 rpm, 1 hr), Scar, mm
0.35

Noack Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800) 6.6

High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity
(ASTM D 4683 @ 150°C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1), cP
3.2

Total Base Number
12.2


10w30

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) [revised as of 1/06]

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
10.6

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
59.2

Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
174

CCS Viscosity @ -25°C, cP (ASTM D-2602)
4020

Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97)
-50 (-58)

Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92)
228 (442)

Four Ball Wear Test
(ASTM D-4172B @ 40 kgf, 75°C, 1200 rpm, 1 hour), Scar, mm
0.35

Noack Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800) 5.4

High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity
(ASTM D-4683 @ 150°C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1), cP
3.2

Total Base Number
12.2

 

If some one is running non Synthetic such as Factory Honda Oil (mobil)

How would you recommend that I convert to a Syntactic oil such and AMSOIL?
Just a normal oil change: Remove old Oil, Replace with Amsoil?
Or is it better to convert, say 2 mobil/2amsoil ?

Reason why I ask, I heard that the Synthetic oil has better detergents there for cleans better, and might cause clogging problems (excess dirt/grim)

MY00 has 35K on it

Let me know what you think

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TomTomTuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If some one is running non Synthetic such as Factory Honda Oil (mobil)

How would you recommend that I convert to a Syntactic oil such and AMSOIL?
Just a normal oil change: Remove old Oil, Replace with Amsoil?
Or is it better to convert, say 2 mobil/2amsoil ?

Reason why I ask, I heard that the Synthetic oil has better detergents there for cleans better, and might cause clogging problems (excess dirt/grim)

MY00 has 35K on it

Let me know what you think
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amsoil has an engine flush that you poure in before you do your oil change, let the car run at idle for 15 min, then you change your oil and filter like normal.

I think its $6 for a 16oz bottle, but works verry well.

ok here is a pic of it. lol.




And you don't have to worry about clogging problems from using it. It will clean your engine and for the most part, then the oil change will keep cleaning your engine.

After the first oil change you will notice that your oil will stay cleaner longer, and if you have an oil temp gauge, you will also notice that you oil temp stays much cooler.

I personally noticed in my own personal car that oil temp are about 20*F cooler than regular oil. (non syn.)

 

I've been running the AMSOIL 10/30 for the last 3+ years. No problems here.

 

Amsoil 0W30 in the ITR for over 60K miles.

-Victor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Amsoil has an engine flush that you poure in before you do your oil change, let the car run at idle for 15 min, then you change your oil and filter like normal.

I think its $6 for a 16oz bottle, but works verry well.

ok here is a pic of it. lol.


And you don't have to worry about clogging problems from using it. It will clean your engine and for the most part, then the oil change will keep cleaning your engine.

After the first oil change you will notice that your oil will stay cleaner longer, and if you have an oil temp gauge, you will also notice that you oil temp stays much cooler.

I personally noticed in my own personal car that oil temp are about 20*F cooler than regular oil. (non syn.) </TD></TR></TABLE>


Spun bearing alert? I love to see guy using seafoam, they pour it in the motor and rev the hell out of the motor, with the juice's lubrication level next to nothing.

not sure what's in the amsoil flush juice but it's not even worth the risk.

atf have more than enough cleaning agent and lube in them, it's a much better formula than just "sea foam" type of stuff, but again, i am not claiming amsoil flush is the same worthless formula as "sf"


for changing syn. oil to your existing motor, there's no special requirement, just drain out the oil juice. most people change their dino oil at 3 k and full syn. oil for 7.5k.

Just because it's syn. oil doesn't mean it will clean better, there's different formla of cleaning agent added from different brand/line of product. Like i said before don't sweat it, just because you been using dino oil doesn't mean you will get alot of dirt/build up. if just by switching to syn. oil can do all that, alot of people wouldn't even need to rebuild their motor.


and...

just because the oil at oil change is cleaner doesn't mean it's a better oil.

one of the major job(one out of five that is) is to clean, I am not too worry if the oil is dirty when i am doing a oil change, this only means the cleaning agent is working. In reverse, I would be very worry about my oil if it's staying clean after 3month/3k miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spun bearing alert? I love to see guy using seafoam, they pour it in the motor and rev the hell out of the motor, with the juice's lubrication level next to nothing.

not sure what's in the amsoil flush juice but it's not even worth the risk. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Recomandation for Amsoil engine flush, is to let the car IDLE for 15 min, "DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR" then change oil and filter.

I used it in many cars, including my cars. And it works verry well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TomTomTuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If some one is running non Synthetic such as Factory Honda Oil (mobil)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've taken my s2000 to the honda dealer for all the oil changes - they use non-synthetic factory honda oil (mobil) with oem s2000 filters. I have 44k miles on the car now and never had a problem.

Is syn oil really better? Prolly Is my s2000 going to notice a different? Prolly not. Maybe under race conditions or if its highly modified, but my s2000 doesnt see anything like that. If the s2000 needed syn oil, it would come from it from the factory.

liam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've taken my s2000 to the honda dealer for all the oil changes - they use non-synthetic factory honda oil (mobil) with oem s2000 filters. I have 44k miles on the car now and never had a problem.

Is syn oil really better? Prolly Is my s2000 going to notice a different? Prolly not. Maybe under race conditions or if its highly modified, but my s2000 doesnt see anything like that. If the s2000 needed syn oil, it would come from it from the factory.

liam</TD></TR></TABLE>

No one said that you NEED synthetic oil for your honda. As everybody knows, honda's been running for years with regular oil and no problems. But if you do use your car for more than daly driving, then you would notice a difference.

Especially if you are boosted. I noticed my oil temps drop from 250*F with Honda oil down to 220*F with Amsoil 5w30 ASL.

So if your car seen nothing but "regular" driving, you don't need synthetic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've taken my s2000 to the honda dealer for all the oil changes - they use non-synthetic factory honda oil (mobil) with oem s2000 filters. I have 44k miles on the car now and never had a problem.

Is syn oil really better? Prolly Is my s2000 going to notice a different? Prolly not. Maybe under race conditions or if its highly modified, but my s2000 doesnt see anything like that. If the s2000 needed syn oil, it would come from it from the factory.

liam</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ i agree
i would consider switching over to synthetic it at 10k, but most likely not
couldnt say it any better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No one said that you NEED synthetic oil for your honda. As everybody knows, honda's been running for years with regular oil and no problems. But if you do use your car for more than daly driving, then you would notice a difference.

Especially if you are boosted. I noticed my oil temps drop from 250*F with Honda oil down to 220*F with Amsoil 5w30 ASL.

So if your car seen nothing but "regular" driving, you don't need synthetic. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I totally agree. In my boosted honda i run syn oil also. But i just wanted to get that point that you dont need to run syn oil in your s2000 and spend $30 a quart to be more jdm or something stupid. If your engine doesnt require it, or you dont need it, dont bother with it.

liam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Recomandation for Amsoil engine flush, is to let the car IDLE for 15 min, "DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR" then change oil and filter.

I used it in many cars, including my cars. And it works verry well. </TD></TR></TABLE>


good to know


syn blend/dino for me

at least for the street