Here is my setup:

AEM CAI with Apexi Filter
Skunk 2 IM(not the pro-series)
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Spare H22 Head with Skunk2 Valvesprings and Titanium Retainers
T1R Header (2.36'' collector)
Test Pipe (2.25'')
Thermal Exhaust (2.25'')
P28 ECU with Hondata S200.
Planning on getting some cam gears to help fine tune my power band.

My main goal is not just peak hp. What I want most is an improved bottom end response(under 3k), an improved midrange response(5-7k), with top end power being a secondary consideration. I'm not planning on doing any headwork or swapping pistons. What do you think would be an appropriate camshaft for me? I'm between the Crower Stage 2 and the Skunk2 Stage 1. I'm open to other options as well, provided they'd meet my power band critera. Thanks for all the help gang.
-Greg P
P.S. Any suggestion of products to buy to help my power are welcome.


Modified by precisionelite at 7:32 PM 2/26/2006

 

Crower stage 1

 

haha, get a turbocharged car then you are worthy of getting cams

 

you prefer the crower stage 1 over the skunk stage 1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matt5745767 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, get a turbocharged car then you are worthy of getting cams</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf are you talking about?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by precisionelite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you prefer the crower stage 1 over the skunk stage 1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent seen very good results from skunk2..not just cams..

I would go with crower stage 1's also
JUN is good but thats only the stage 3 if im not mistaken

 

Generally speaking with the S2 stage 2 you have to have high compression to get the full benefit. Jun only comes with one option for the Prelude. For what you want, Crower should be just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matt5745767 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, get a turbocharged car then you are worthy of getting cams</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf u talkin about willis?

If he was turboing he'd want to keep his head stock. Stock cams are perfect for boosting, nice and strong.

 

I would suggest a reground stock cam. Most aftermarket cams are made with more duration. With a regrind you can get a little more lift that way, and you don't have to pay for a new cam.

 

mine is not installed yet, but i do hear the skunk 2 IM makes the motor loose low end power (below 4 grandish). With more aggressive cams your low end might actually improve. just a thought -jeff

 

Im very interested about this too.

 

In hindsight, I would of been much better off with the Euro R manifold. With the skunk2 IM you lose MAD power below 4k. For all of you that use their car mostly for daily driving, stick with stock or Euro R. I believe BlackTrax has some interesting IM options for the H22 as well.

It's hard for me to tell what the actually gains are because I installed my header and test pipe at the same time. However, I can say that my mid range defiantly feels a lot fatter 5k-7k. I might run a more aggresive cam (crower stage 2) in order to get some of my low end back.
-Greg P

 

I forgot to mention that I have a spare H22 head with Skunk2 valve springs and titanium retainers. What would be easier, transfering the valvetrain to my current head, or doing a head swap?

 

What manifolds are you guys running that give you good low/midrange power?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would suggest a reground stock cam. Most aftermarket cams are made with more duration. With a regrind you can get a little more lift that way, and you don't have to pay for a new cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where can you get your cams reground? Don't they have to add material to make more lift possible?? Anyone done this and seen good gains?

 

if you do choose the re-ground cams route, I believe K-teller does regrinds.
http://www.kteller.com

 

Best manifold of the 3, stock ported, Junk2, and EuroR, the EuroR is by far the best. The junk2 IM makes more peak HP at redline when compared to the EuroR like a cpl whp, BUT the junk2, give a ton of ground the rest of the graph. You shoulda done some research before you started building if you wanted mid/low range instead of just peicing stuff together.

 

type s cams or crower stage 1 cams

 

I did a lot of research before I started building. I thought I wouldn't mind losing the low end torque, knowing that when I'm racing i'm not there anyway. But as this is my daily driver, the lack of torque is getting to me more than I thought it would.
Basicly, I had a change of plans. At first, I wanted a motor that pulled mostly in the high end range. Now I want a balanced motor that pulls well throughtout the RPM range even if it gives up a little on top. Chalk it up to watching too many best motoring videos, and realizes what wins races. :-)

I talked to my local speed shop and they said for stock compression the type S cams are best. They've tried just about every cam for the H22 and have a 260whp h22 hatch.
-Greg P

 

Let's Compare the Crower Stage 1's to the Type S cams.
<U>Crower Stage 1 </U>
Intake Duration: 307 Lift: .459
Exhaust Duration: 318 Lift: .428

<U>Type S</U>
Intake Duration: 306 Lift: .469
Exhaust Duration: 310 Lift: .438

The crowers have more duration, while the type s cams have more lift. I'm not sure how that will translate into performance. The Crowers will probably have ruffer idle than the type s's, because of the increased duration. I don't know if it will even be noticiable though. Experts chime in please

 

Ideas/Opinions/Experiences welcome

 

Those specs are probably for the VTEC lobes. If your definition of "low and midrange power" means before VTEC then you will probably have to call them up to get the "low" cam specs. I know crower has a version of their stage 2 cams that use stock low cam profiles, which means idle should be the same as stock cams.

I know this is not encompassed in the title of your thread, but headers can make a difference in power band. I think a DC style header would be better for low end power. Most of the RMF/SMSP headers use larger tubing, which is good for top end but can hurt low end.

 

Great Observation flyrod, I hadn't even realized that. Yes, they are taken from the VTEC lobe. Crower lists the duration of their cams for the primary, secondary, and mid(vtec) lobes. Unfortunatly they only list the mid lobe duration for the type S. D'OH!
Now I know what my shop meant when they said the crower 2's were a big cam. Look at the difference between the primary and secondary lobe durations of crowers stock replacement cam, compared to their Stage 2 cam.

<U>Stock Replacement Cam</U>
(intake)Pri: 210 (Exhaust)Pri: 276
(intake)Sec: 214 (Exhaust)Sec: 285

<U>Crower Stage 2 Cam</U>
(intake)Pri: 278 (Exhaust)Pri: 256
(intake)Sec: 280 (Exhaust)Sec: 289

Look at the huge difference in duration for the Intake Primary and Secondary Lobes. On the Primary their is a difference of 68 degrees. On the Secondary Lobes their is a difference of 66 degrees.
The Exhaust Lobes: The stock replacements primary lobe actually has more duration than the stage 2's(20 degrees). The Stage 2's seconday lobe has more duration than the stock replacement (4 degrees).

 

I'm leaning towards the type s cams. Knowing that there not a huge different than stock will I experience rocker pad damage because of the skunk2 springs?

 

does anyone have a video of a lude with any of these cams, i wanna hear the kick into vtec to see the difference between that and my little stocky

 

Actually the lose of bottom end is due to the loss of the two stage intake manifold. The skunk 2 manifold is garbage on an engine that already has a fairly sophisticated manifold. Why change it? Think plenum spacers for more torque.......