headers
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Joined: Nov 2005
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lol ^^^ honeslty imo...a header is a header, its tubing cant change that TOO much between companies lol. all i can tell you is 4-1 header is good for highrpm, but bad for ground cleanrance. 4-2-1 is good for mid range rp. just get a pair that fits, spend about 100$ and heat wrap them, you'll be about as happy and you'll get
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,807
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From: Dottie's house
Re: (si0385.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hytech or sms 
bisimoto is in a whole nother category</TD></TR></TABLE>
be prepared to shell out some cash
bisimoto is in a whole nother category</TD></TR></TABLE>
be prepared to shell out some cash
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 754
Likes: 3
From: midwest
Re: headers (88crx)
here is a little tip from me to you
if you get a polished header, make sure that is very clean before you run it the first time. Clean it off with a solvent... alcohol or brake cleaner or something. If you don't, any fingerprints or oily smears will burn into the finish.
if you get a polished header, make sure that is very clean before you run it the first time. Clean it off with a solvent... alcohol or brake cleaner or something. If you don't, any fingerprints or oily smears will burn into the finish.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 71
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From: Freehold, Nj
Re: headers (88crx)
anyody have any experience with jun header
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dseries_ef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol ^^^ honeslty imo...a header is a header, its tubing cant change that TOO much between companies lol. all i can tell you is 4-1 header is good for highrpm, but bad for ground cleanrance. 4-2-1 is good for mid range rp. just get a pair that fits, spend about 100$ and heat wrap them, you'll be about as happy and you'll get </TD></TR></TABLE>
ne website where i can get them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dseries_ef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol ^^^ honeslty imo...a header is a header, its tubing cant change that TOO much between companies lol. all i can tell you is 4-1 header is good for highrpm, but bad for ground cleanrance. 4-2-1 is good for mid range rp. just get a pair that fits, spend about 100$ and heat wrap them, you'll be about as happy and you'll get </TD></TR></TABLE>
ne website where i can get them
Re: headers (jpciii)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpciii »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is a little tip from me to you
if you get a polished header, make sure that is very clean before you run it the first time. Clean it off with a solvent... alcohol or brake cleaner or something. If you don't, any fingerprints or oily smears will burn into the finish.</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAMN TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!! 3 out of 4 piping looks like **** after not doing what jpciii said.
if you get a polished header, make sure that is very clean before you run it the first time. Clean it off with a solvent... alcohol or brake cleaner or something. If you don't, any fingerprints or oily smears will burn into the finish.</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAMN TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!! 3 out of 4 piping looks like **** after not doing what jpciii said.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,878
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From: the lobes of Vtec
Re: (dseries_ef)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dseries_ef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol ^^^ honeslty imo...a header is a header, its tubing cant change that TOO much between companies lol. all i can tell you is 4-1 header is good for highrpm, but bad for ground cleanrance. 4-2-1 is good for mid range rp. just get a pair that fits, spend about 100$ and heat wrap them, you'll be about as happy and you'll get </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good advice but I have seen headers crack after a while from being heat wraped, The heat does stay away from everything else better but the header is not very good at retaining all that heat after a while. I have had both 4-2-1 and 4-1 and I like the 4-1 better since I hang out in Vtec quite a bit but the ground clearance really is an issue on the EFs ( I ran the 4-1 on my EG). I will try to get a 4-1 for my rex once I find one that clears the ground enough (I have not researched yet so I may be dissapointed when I do). My current 4-2-1 is nice to have though.
Good advice but I have seen headers crack after a while from being heat wraped, The heat does stay away from everything else better but the header is not very good at retaining all that heat after a while. I have had both 4-2-1 and 4-1 and I like the 4-1 better since I hang out in Vtec quite a bit but the ground clearance really is an issue on the EFs ( I ran the 4-1 on my EG). I will try to get a 4-1 for my rex once I find one that clears the ground enough (I have not researched yet so I may be dissapointed when I do). My current 4-2-1 is nice to have though.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 850
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From: Mpls, MN, USA
Re: headers (88crx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey im looking to buy some headers for my crx w/ b16 need some opinions any experiences, suggestions</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont know if people realize you are running OBD0 with the primary and secondary NON-heated O2 sensors that need to be placed near the head for proper operation.
If you are running a JDM Pr3 or PWO ecu with Pin # C8 and # C16 wired in correctly for those ECU's, you may want to check out HASPORT.
They have a header specifically for this application.
If it were me, I would have just ordered a OBD1 B16 swap with the short geared JDM XSI tranny or a hydro B16.
Obviously, if you choose that route, you will need to convert your CRX to run OBD1 electronics.
If you choose a Hydro B16 swap, you will need to get HASPORT's EFB2 Cable to Hydro B-series swap mount kit.
Your header and engine management options are far greater if you convert to OBD1.
I dont know if people realize you are running OBD0 with the primary and secondary NON-heated O2 sensors that need to be placed near the head for proper operation.
If you are running a JDM Pr3 or PWO ecu with Pin # C8 and # C16 wired in correctly for those ECU's, you may want to check out HASPORT.
They have a header specifically for this application.
If it were me, I would have just ordered a OBD1 B16 swap with the short geared JDM XSI tranny or a hydro B16.
Obviously, if you choose that route, you will need to convert your CRX to run OBD1 electronics.
If you choose a Hydro B16 swap, you will need to get HASPORT's EFB2 Cable to Hydro B-series swap mount kit.
Your header and engine management options are far greater if you convert to OBD1.
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