which header is better ????
11-25-2006, 12:46 PM
#2
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Re: which header is better ???? (siblue99ek)
it depends where youre looking to get better hp gains..
4-2-1=low rpm range
4-1=high rpm range
4-2-1=low rpm range
4-1=high rpm range
11-25-2006, 12:51 PM
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Re: which header is better ???? (siblue99ek)
Depends how much you want to spend really. 4-1 top or 4-2-1 mid.
I prefer 4-2-1 as I like track racing more then strip. My headers are smsp 4-2-1 on a h22a eg
I prefer 4-2-1 as I like track racing more then strip. My headers are smsp 4-2-1 on a h22a eg
11-25-2006, 01:33 PM
#6
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Re: which header is better ???? (siblue99ek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblue99ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want to know what header would be better for my b16.. the 4 to 2 to 1 or the 4 to 1 headers.. any info would be helpful</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are excellent 4-2-1 headers, and there are lousy 4-2-1 headers, just as there are excellent 4-1 headers and lousy 4-1 headers.
The quality of a header's design and construction is much more important than its configuration.
There are excellent 4-2-1 headers, and there are lousy 4-2-1 headers, just as there are excellent 4-1 headers and lousy 4-1 headers.
The quality of a header's design and construction is much more important than its configuration.
11-25-2006, 02:29 PM
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how bout just get a 4-1 header to ensure no exhaust leaks on the center of the manifold, and make sure you dont get any ebay crap, ive tried 4 and they are all laying in my backyard due to all leaking and being warped
even better, dont spend your money on that garbage, and save up for an FI manifold, or just keep OEM, which is the best yet
even better, dont spend your money on that garbage, and save up for an FI manifold, or just keep OEM, which is the best yet
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11-25-2006, 03:04 PM
#8
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Re: which header is better ???? (Padawan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There are excellent 4-2-1 headers, and there are lousy 4-2-1 headers, just as there are excellent 4-1 headers and lousy 4-1 headers.
The quality of a header's design and construction is much more important than its configuration. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
There are excellent 4-2-1 headers, and there are lousy 4-2-1 headers, just as there are excellent 4-1 headers and lousy 4-1 headers.
The quality of a header's design and construction is much more important than its configuration. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
11-25-2006, 03:17 PM
#9
Re: (siblue99ek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblue99ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i like the 4 to 1 .. i think i need more low rpm hp</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're not going to get it from a header on a b16
you're not going to get it from a header on a b16
11-25-2006, 06:13 PM
#10
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just keep OEM, which is the best yet</TD></TR></TABLE> What is your basis for the statement that OEM is best? I am currently saving up for a Whitefield racing "rage" header. I have never heard of performance gains from the OEM manifold. I'd love to hear your explanation.
11-25-2006, 06:43 PM
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well for one, they dont leak as easily as an aftermarket one, expletive what ya heard ive had DC leak on me. The 99-00 civic ex manifold is the best i have ever used. Sure its not as open as an aftermarket, but its fitment is superb, its strength is like superman, and its double walled. Why dont you tell Mr. Honda that his **** is inferior, adn that the R&D engeneers should have used a different design.
Most of these kids are just slapping on an exhaust and intake, therefore spending cash on something like that isnt going to give you a ferrari, its probably the most financially stupid thing you could do.
For the facts, the OEM intake is better than a CAI, the OEM exhaust manifold is better than an aftermarket, however the exhaust if its tuned to the application, may be of some benifit, however financially, your being a retard buying one unless you turbo or swap for a nice k20 or something.
The OEM airbox builds pressure, condenses air before it hits the chambers, and is TUNED for the application.
The exhaust/manifold, tuned for the application hence your just ******* with a perfect design which will bring more problems, and less money in the pocket further down the road.
BUying any of these parts for a combined total of more than $200 is a financially retartation move, when that could buy you your intercooler.
eventially your gonna rip all this **** outta there anyway because your need for more power WILL take over. Hence staying with what HONDA made untill you decide to make some big power is better than anything. Booya
Most of these kids are just slapping on an exhaust and intake, therefore spending cash on something like that isnt going to give you a ferrari, its probably the most financially stupid thing you could do.
For the facts, the OEM intake is better than a CAI, the OEM exhaust manifold is better than an aftermarket, however the exhaust if its tuned to the application, may be of some benifit, however financially, your being a retard buying one unless you turbo or swap for a nice k20 or something.
The OEM airbox builds pressure, condenses air before it hits the chambers, and is TUNED for the application.
The exhaust/manifold, tuned for the application hence your just ******* with a perfect design which will bring more problems, and less money in the pocket further down the road.
BUying any of these parts for a combined total of more than $200 is a financially retartation move, when that could buy you your intercooler.
eventially your gonna rip all this **** outta there anyway because your need for more power WILL take over. Hence staying with what HONDA made untill you decide to make some big power is better than anything. Booya
11-25-2006, 06:53 PM
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You'll probably be using as a practical car, like a daily driver, so a 4-2-1 1pc would be better for you. 1pc or 2pc doesn't really matter but obviously a 1pc has less air resistance in the tubes due to straight flow instead of a break someplace.
Definately 4-2-1 > 4-1 in your case though.
Unless it's a drag car or something, which it sure as hell doesn't seem like.
Definately 4-2-1 > 4-1 in your case though.
Unless it's a drag car or something, which it sure as hell doesn't seem like.
11-25-2006, 09:10 PM
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for one, they dont leak as easily as an aftermarket one, expletive what ya heard ive had DC leak on me. The 99-00 civic ex manifold is the best i have ever used. Sure its not as open as an aftermarket, but its fitment is superb, its strength is like superman, and its double walled. Why dont you tell Mr. Honda that his **** is inferior, adn that the R&D engeneers should have used a different design.
Most of these kids are just slapping on an exhaust and intake, therefore spending cash on something like that isnt going to give you a ferrari, its probably the most financially stupid thing you could do.
For the facts, the OEM intake is better than a CAI, the OEM exhaust manifold is better than an aftermarket, however the exhaust if its tuned to the application, may be of some benifit, however financially, your being a retard buying one unless you turbo or swap for a nice k20 or something.
The OEM airbox builds pressure, condenses air before it hits the chambers, and is TUNED for the application.
The exhaust/manifold, tuned for the application hence your just ******* with a perfect design which will bring more problems, and less money in the pocket further down the road.
BUying any of these parts for a combined total of more than $200 is a financially retartation move, when that could buy you your intercooler.
eventially your gonna rip all this **** outta there anyway because your need for more power WILL take over. Hence staying with what HONDA made untill you decide to make some big power is better than anything. Booya</TD></TR></TABLE>
Last I checked, the exhaust was tuned to be quiet... and since when does the intake condense air? It seems to be just a big resonator to make it quieter to me... The cars were not made to make power, they were made for economy and practicality.... even the SI b16... still economy, with just a little more pep.
Most of these kids are just slapping on an exhaust and intake, therefore spending cash on something like that isnt going to give you a ferrari, its probably the most financially stupid thing you could do.
For the facts, the OEM intake is better than a CAI, the OEM exhaust manifold is better than an aftermarket, however the exhaust if its tuned to the application, may be of some benifit, however financially, your being a retard buying one unless you turbo or swap for a nice k20 or something.
The OEM airbox builds pressure, condenses air before it hits the chambers, and is TUNED for the application.
The exhaust/manifold, tuned for the application hence your just ******* with a perfect design which will bring more problems, and less money in the pocket further down the road.
BUying any of these parts for a combined total of more than $200 is a financially retartation move, when that could buy you your intercooler.
eventially your gonna rip all this **** outta there anyway because your need for more power WILL take over. Hence staying with what HONDA made untill you decide to make some big power is better than anything. Booya</TD></TR></TABLE>
Last I checked, the exhaust was tuned to be quiet... and since when does the intake condense air? It seems to be just a big resonator to make it quieter to me... The cars were not made to make power, they were made for economy and practicality.... even the SI b16... still economy, with just a little more pep.
11-25-2006, 11:16 PM
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Re: (CooBlueDAB)
do some more searching...air box beats intake. sure less sound is just a benefit. an inclosed design around a filter is the way to go...check out mugens airbox design....larger the box, more negative pressure, which creates more air per cubic density. only downside, physics says negative air pressure brings dust, and warmer air, so routing a duct to the airbox, = best design.
header, your just opening up airflow, would u, an automotive engineer tell me that jjust opening up the pipes=better? if there is no proven data that shows an aftermarket header = better in all catigorys, I will then reinstall my DC, and see if the reason I resorted to OEM, has been changed.
how ever to answer the question, a 4-1 design will be the educated way to go since power is mostly made up top on a b16. going for low end is just countering the whole design.
my free mods put out more power than a header ever would.....I say this now because my d16 whoops b16s all day, and that's with a 99+ oem header
header, your just opening up airflow, would u, an automotive engineer tell me that jjust opening up the pipes=better? if there is no proven data that shows an aftermarket header = better in all catigorys, I will then reinstall my DC, and see if the reason I resorted to OEM, has been changed.
how ever to answer the question, a 4-1 design will be the educated way to go since power is mostly made up top on a b16. going for low end is just countering the whole design.
my free mods put out more power than a header ever would.....I say this now because my d16 whoops b16s all day, and that's with a 99+ oem header
11-25-2006, 11:25 PM
#15
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my free mods put out more power than a header ever would</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are your free mods?
what are your free mods?
11-26-2006, 06:45 AM
#16
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for one, they dont leak as easily as an aftermarket one, expletive what ya heard ive had DC leak on me. The 99-00 civic ex manifold is the best i have ever used. Sure its not as open as an aftermarket, but its fitment is superb, its strength is like superman, and its double walled. Why dont you tell Mr. Honda that his **** is inferior, adn that the R&D engeneers should have used a different design.
Most of these kids are just slapping on an exhaust and intake, therefore spending cash on something like that isnt going to give you a ferrari, its probably the most financially stupid thing you could do.
For the facts, the OEM intake is better than a CAI, the OEM exhaust manifold is better than an aftermarket, however the exhaust if its tuned to the application, may be of some benifit, however financially, your being a retard buying one unless you turbo or swap for a nice k20 or something.
The OEM airbox builds pressure, condenses air before it hits the chambers, and is TUNED for the application.
The exhaust/manifold, tuned for the application hence your just ******* with a perfect design which will bring more problems, and less money in the pocket further down the road.
BUying any of these parts for a combined total of more than $200 is a financially retartation move, when that could buy you your intercooler.
eventially your gonna rip all this **** outta there anyway because your need for more power WILL take over. Hence staying with what HONDA made untill you decide to make some big power is better than anything. Booya</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't even know where to start with this one....
Most of these kids are just slapping on an exhaust and intake, therefore spending cash on something like that isnt going to give you a ferrari, its probably the most financially stupid thing you could do.
For the facts, the OEM intake is better than a CAI, the OEM exhaust manifold is better than an aftermarket, however the exhaust if its tuned to the application, may be of some benifit, however financially, your being a retard buying one unless you turbo or swap for a nice k20 or something.
The OEM airbox builds pressure, condenses air before it hits the chambers, and is TUNED for the application.
The exhaust/manifold, tuned for the application hence your just ******* with a perfect design which will bring more problems, and less money in the pocket further down the road.
BUying any of these parts for a combined total of more than $200 is a financially retartation move, when that could buy you your intercooler.
eventially your gonna rip all this **** outta there anyway because your need for more power WILL take over. Hence staying with what HONDA made untill you decide to make some big power is better than anything. Booya</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't even know where to start with this one....
11-26-2006, 06:51 AM
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Re: which header is better ???? (siblue99ek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblue99ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want to know what header would be better for my b16.. the 4 to 2 to 1 or the 4 to 1 headers.. any info would be helpful</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've got a 98 Spec ITR 4-1 Header on my B16 and it's pretty enjoyable. My top end HP range far exceeds my lower RPM HP range. Though I do have a full 2.5" exhaust plus the ITR header, so, it's expected. If you want off the line power, get a 4-2-1 header with a 2.25" exhaust, if you want top end get a 4-1 header with 2.5" exhaust
DJ Squiggles - Dancing With Tears in my Eyes (2006) - 1 - Dancing With Tears in my Eyes - The True Story of the PMT.mp3 [128Kbps] (120:48)
I've got a 98 Spec ITR 4-1 Header on my B16 and it's pretty enjoyable. My top end HP range far exceeds my lower RPM HP range. Though I do have a full 2.5" exhaust plus the ITR header, so, it's expected. If you want off the line power, get a 4-2-1 header with a 2.25" exhaust, if you want top end get a 4-1 header with 2.5" exhaust
DJ Squiggles - Dancing With Tears in my Eyes (2006) - 1 - Dancing With Tears in my Eyes - The True Story of the PMT.mp3 [128Kbps] (120:48)
11-26-2006, 07:20 AM
#18
Re: which header is better ???? (project_cars)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project_cars »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it's for your daily driver, i would suggest the 4-1 header. i like 4-1's better on the freeway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO - this guy knows what he is talking about - jesus christ...I dunno why I come here
when did this become http://www.honda-italkcompletebullshitoutmyass.com
go for a quality 4-2-1 header....many quality 4-2-1 headers will out perform 4-1.... if this a *****-out drag car making 300+whp you might want to look into a quality 4-1 race header
all depends on how much you have to spend
LMAO - this guy knows what he is talking about - jesus christ...I dunno why I come here
when did this become http://www.honda-italkcompletebullshitoutmyass.com
go for a quality 4-2-1 header....many quality 4-2-1 headers will out perform 4-1.... if this a *****-out drag car making 300+whp you might want to look into a quality 4-1 race header
all depends on how much you have to spend
11-26-2006, 10:50 AM
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Re: which header is better ???? (_adirondackR_)
so when does slapping on a header actually GIVE you more hp? currently there is no proof that a header will. it may free up some. but spending 300 on something that won't give you hp, which is clearly stupid in my book.
that 300 is 1/3 on ur way to a turbo, or an engine build, which gives you hp
however to answer the question again, i say 4-1 on a 1.6 economy box. this will free some hp on the high end, which is the only spot a b16 makes decent power. Since you will be restricting some lower end power, i urge you to rethink the way you drop a pretty dime on your car, and spend it more on suspension or save for a swap or turbo. You will nickle and dime your *** with bolt ons only to say what the expletive was i thinking, and my 4dr ex will still beat your *** like a chuck norris special program.
Anytime your sacrificing something, your pretty much loosing out in the end, why not have the best of everything with FI or a swap, or just ******* put the whole 40hp header gain BS aside and get some weight reduction or suspension.
Modified by YoungKadafi at 12:25 PM 11/26/2006
that 300 is 1/3 on ur way to a turbo, or an engine build, which gives you hp
however to answer the question again, i say 4-1 on a 1.6 economy box. this will free some hp on the high end, which is the only spot a b16 makes decent power. Since you will be restricting some lower end power, i urge you to rethink the way you drop a pretty dime on your car, and spend it more on suspension or save for a swap or turbo. You will nickle and dime your *** with bolt ons only to say what the expletive was i thinking, and my 4dr ex will still beat your *** like a chuck norris special program.
Anytime your sacrificing something, your pretty much loosing out in the end, why not have the best of everything with FI or a swap, or just ******* put the whole 40hp header gain BS aside and get some weight reduction or suspension.
Modified by YoungKadafi at 12:25 PM 11/26/2006
11-26-2006, 11:21 AM
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Re: (Padawan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't even know where to start with this one.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
I like the CONDENSED air thing.
I don't even know where to start with this one....
</TD></TR></TABLE>I like the CONDENSED air thing.
11-26-2006, 11:27 AM
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Re: (IslandSi)
haha there u are again islandsi talking **** like a complete hoe. How come most people here with the riced out si's filled with APC stickers and horrible sounding exhausts, and painted blue interiors all think that a cold air intake is a god send, but the experts and engeneers all know why they use an airbox. Its all about air pressure
11-26-2006, 11:31 AM
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Re: which header is better ???? (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so when does slapping on a header actually GIVE you more hp? currently there is no proof that a header will. it may free up some. </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1543095
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=736172
I tried to look for some more, but these should hold you over and your mouth shut for now.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1543095
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=736172
I tried to look for some more, but these should hold you over and your mouth shut for now.
11-26-2006, 11:33 AM
#23
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YoungKadafi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha there u are again islandsi talking **** like a complete hoe. How come most people here with the riced out si's filled with APC stickers and horrible sounding exhausts, and painted blue interiors all think that a cold air intake is a god send, but the experts and engeneers all know why they use an airbox. Its all about air pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
You were talking about a header if I remember correctly.
I simply stated that the whole condensed air thing out of your big pile of wannabe educated babble was the funniest thing to me.
FWIW, air doesn't CONDENSE!
You were talking about a header if I remember correctly.
I simply stated that the whole condensed air thing out of your big pile of wannabe educated babble was the funniest thing to me.
FWIW, air doesn't CONDENSE!
11-26-2006, 11:58 AM
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dam i didnt know changing out a ******* metal pipe would actually cause your 1.6 to jump up to 2.0 or some thing, or maybe put out some more displacement.
expletive why dont i just reinstall my DC header and things would be awsome. or just keep my OEM 99+ manifold on there because the DC is warped, leaks now all because its just a shitty *** peice of metal. ive had 2, untill i swapped for the 99+ ex manifold, never been happier. Went from a CAI back to OEM box, never been happier.
Pound for Pound, $ for $ these things do minimal. I would hold off on this **** untill you make some worthy upgrades, and untill you know what your gonna do with the car, either NA or FI. then after the engine is restricted due to exhaust flow, buy a good header because then the engine is producing more, hence you need to export more exhaust gases in a timely manner.
still, your a ******* retard for thinking a header will MAKE power, it will free up power, just like cutting your power steering belt, FREES UP POWER.
maybe somebody else could back this up,
this is what frees up power by using efficiency;
Intake
Header
Exhaust
Port/Polish
IM/TB
upgading ground wires
lighter tires/wheels
areodynamic upgrades
royal purple oil
removing PS pump and belt (only while turning)
This is what actually CREATES more power, producing more power, more engergy;
Turbo/supercharger
upgrading pistons other misc engine builds
swap for a 1.8 or 2.0 i.e GSR, K20
again a header does not generate more engine, it frees up lost engergy by a specific design, OEM just had a mutual design to keep everybody happy.
Oh and my bad on condensing air thing, what i meant to say is that airbox builds up negative pressure, you do the rest of the math and research, hey why not call up some R&D departments and ask why all autos use this method, and why mugen uses this method, why spoon uses this. And every car i see out on the road thats RICED to the point where it looks like a carnival jb welded onto a chassis, has AEM stickers from front to back. Im sure this guy dosent know hes sucking in alot of dust, shortening the life of his engine, esp. if hes using a K&N filter, allbecause he wanted to free up 2 hp. Horrible trade off.
Prove it wrong, PROVE IT! i dare you, like provign gravity doesnt exist. They cant produce energy, it only directs exhaust flow, so this is why ill ******* stick with my double walled exhaust manifold which has never failed me after spending hundreds thinking a header will get me more *****
expletive why dont i just reinstall my DC header and things would be awsome. or just keep my OEM 99+ manifold on there because the DC is warped, leaks now all because its just a shitty *** peice of metal. ive had 2, untill i swapped for the 99+ ex manifold, never been happier. Went from a CAI back to OEM box, never been happier.
Pound for Pound, $ for $ these things do minimal. I would hold off on this **** untill you make some worthy upgrades, and untill you know what your gonna do with the car, either NA or FI. then after the engine is restricted due to exhaust flow, buy a good header because then the engine is producing more, hence you need to export more exhaust gases in a timely manner.
still, your a ******* retard for thinking a header will MAKE power, it will free up power, just like cutting your power steering belt, FREES UP POWER.
maybe somebody else could back this up,
this is what frees up power by using efficiency;
Intake
Header
Exhaust
Port/Polish
IM/TB
upgading ground wires
lighter tires/wheels
areodynamic upgrades
royal purple oil
removing PS pump and belt (only while turning)
This is what actually CREATES more power, producing more power, more engergy;
Turbo/supercharger
upgrading pistons other misc engine builds
swap for a 1.8 or 2.0 i.e GSR, K20
again a header does not generate more engine, it frees up lost engergy by a specific design, OEM just had a mutual design to keep everybody happy.
Oh and my bad on condensing air thing, what i meant to say is that airbox builds up negative pressure, you do the rest of the math and research, hey why not call up some R&D departments and ask why all autos use this method, and why mugen uses this method, why spoon uses this. And every car i see out on the road thats RICED to the point where it looks like a carnival jb welded onto a chassis, has AEM stickers from front to back. Im sure this guy dosent know hes sucking in alot of dust, shortening the life of his engine, esp. if hes using a K&N filter, allbecause he wanted to free up 2 hp. Horrible trade off.
Prove it wrong, PROVE IT! i dare you, like provign gravity doesnt exist. They cant produce energy, it only directs exhaust flow, so this is why ill ******* stick with my double walled exhaust manifold which has never failed me after spending hundreds thinking a header will get me more *****