I just but my b18c into my 99 hatch not to long ago it didn't come with a cat converter, so I just hooked up my exhaust straight threw onto the header running no cat. And at this point in time I'm throwing a code with I know is because of the secondary O2 sensor. So my question is how much would it cost if I took my car to the exhaust shop have then make a hole for the O2 sensor, put the sensor on, and would that take care of the code I'm throwing?

 

You would have to run both of your o2's not to get the code the one before the cat and the one after the cat. dependinng on what ecu your running.

 

or u could just run a jdm gsr ecu , even obd2 they only used 1 o2

 

Anyone know how to wire the TWO wires (from 2nd o2) into a 99/00Si ECU? One wire goes to the pin of the ECU, but what about the other wire?

 

Just get a mil immulator for 20 bucks no code no second o2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleeping_H22_DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get a mil immulator for 20 bucks no code no second o2</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would running a diff ecu be better then running a 99/00 si ECU?

95 gsr ecu, ITR ecu (US or JDM), of course with the harness conversion.

 

i prefer running an obd1 ecu on an obd2 car when it comes to obd1 motors.. right now on my 99 dx hatch im running an obd1 p72 ecu with a conversion harness for my GSR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Would running a diff ecu be better then running a 99/00 si ECU?

95 gsr ecu, ITR ecu (US or JDM), of course with the harness conversion.</TD></TR></TABLE>


If that question was directed to me f*&* yea !!! OBD2 sucks my Em1 is running a p28 w/ s100 hondata that little no torque b16 is almost not slow now. obd2 is the worst thing i ever had to deal with.
Now for the ecu's with a b16 a P72 should run it nice there very pricey though. I would suggest like i always do a p28 with a hondata s100 system $350 out the door call it a day. a mild baseline from another B16 $25 for programming, save some money get it tuned for $200 (after your done with modding it eg cams ect) is the only way to make that b16 work.

 

your looking at 375 ECU Hondata and all installed with mild baseline.
alot of hondata shops will do before and after dyno pulls you'll be amazed. not that much it still is a b16 but, more than any other mod put together besides openeing the block or head.
i had skunk 2 s1 cams, gears
itr mani
i/h/e
type-r head
Ctr pistons
when i put it on a dyno 141Hp pretty weak, my fist dyno in the car was at 133 stock (except intake), i figured out that it was running hella lean with my FPR set at 48psi WOT !! i went hondata put the parts i had actually to work after 15-20 pulls and $250 later i pulled 163 whp. not to bad that thing was still slow though. no replacment for displacment