eg h22 sedan- boost or itb- input, not preference
1. I know this is the lude forum so feel free to move if necessary but I was attempting to not get biast votes, and opinions by posting in a turbo or all motor forum.
Alright so I been doing my research as i was collectively starting to piece together a turbo kit for my h22 sedan, I was aiming towards 260-280ish on no more than 10 psi, but more along the lines of 6-8 for street, I read very good #'s come from mild boost on 22's and people pushing 10-15 if not 19 lbs on stock bottom end, but we all know it don't last casue of the ring landings. . .
heres where the debate come in, if i boost it I don't/ am not ready to mess with the bottom end and I want more of a realiable sense of ease knowin my bottom end isn't gonna take a **** at any second.
so do i aim for 260-280hp with boost and spend-$2800--(btw these are my guesstimates/hook ups, please correct or add to my lists)
************ ******OR****** do i spend--%2700 and aim for 220ish N/A and have
more faith in my motor, and not be
on the turbo bandwagon
Boost costs----------------------------All motor cost.
turbo-$700----------------------------Injector's-$300
mani-$600---------------------------- fuel pump-$90
injectors-$300------------------------ Custom,(not homemade) Itb's-$1000
2mm head gasket$100+-------------Jun cams-$6-700???????
fuel pump-$90------------------------An-r header$600
Waste gate-$200---------------------spings&retainers$$???$
bov---$175+---------------------------
custom hard pipes$200--------------Already have autronic pNp
misc fittings, clamps$100------------Tune $90hr
psi gauge-$80
T-timer----$150
already have autronic pNp
already have fmic
Tune-$90hr
My current set up made 182whp, w/ 11:1 c/r, w/ a generic header. I typically don't call on the internet for help with my decisions but in this case, this is something I just can't make my mind up on as I have recently seen the 260whp n/a h22 that 2point6 has and a couple other 225+ h22's. . . . . any feed back, personal experiances, pros/cons would be appreciated.
editing for legibility!
Modified by h22chilton at 3:40 PM 2/22/2006
Modified by h22chilton at 3:42 PM 2/22/2006
Alright so I been doing my research as i was collectively starting to piece together a turbo kit for my h22 sedan, I was aiming towards 260-280ish on no more than 10 psi, but more along the lines of 6-8 for street, I read very good #'s come from mild boost on 22's and people pushing 10-15 if not 19 lbs on stock bottom end, but we all know it don't last casue of the ring landings. . .
heres where the debate come in, if i boost it I don't/ am not ready to mess with the bottom end and I want more of a realiable sense of ease knowin my bottom end isn't gonna take a **** at any second.
so do i aim for 260-280hp with boost and spend-$2800--(btw these are my guesstimates/hook ups, please correct or add to my lists)
************ ******OR****** do i spend--%2700 and aim for 220ish N/A and have
more faith in my motor, and not be
on the turbo bandwagon
Boost costs----------------------------All motor cost.
turbo-$700----------------------------Injector's-$300
mani-$600---------------------------- fuel pump-$90
injectors-$300------------------------ Custom,(not homemade) Itb's-$1000
2mm head gasket$100+-------------Jun cams-$6-700???????
fuel pump-$90------------------------An-r header$600
Waste gate-$200---------------------spings&retainers$$???$
bov---$175+---------------------------
custom hard pipes$200--------------Already have autronic pNp
misc fittings, clamps$100------------Tune $90hr
psi gauge-$80
T-timer----$150
already have autronic pNp
already have fmic
Tune-$90hr
My current set up made 182whp, w/ 11:1 c/r, w/ a generic header. I typically don't call on the internet for help with my decisions but in this case, this is something I just can't make my mind up on as I have recently seen the 260whp n/a h22 that 2point6 has and a couple other 225+ h22's. . . . . any feed back, personal experiances, pros/cons would be appreciated.
editing for legibility!
Modified by h22chilton at 3:40 PM 2/22/2006
Modified by h22chilton at 3:42 PM 2/22/2006
I feel ya.. . .I had my heart set on boost, no ifs and or buts, . . but damn if I'm gonna blow it up in a few weeks, cause I drive my car hard, then I'd just assume to still smash a majority of the cars in my town with a n/a motor, but I am just wondering about the almost daily drivablity of the itb's??!!!
If you do not want to build the bottom end.
I suggest DEF going with NA.
ITB's will def drop the driveability of your car. But I think the gain far outways the losses in driveability..
NA = RAW power
Boost = poweraid
I suggest DEF going with NA.
ITB's will def drop the driveability of your car. But I think the gain far outways the losses in driveability..
NA = RAW power
Boost = poweraid
a good tune will be a for sure either way, that is the only way I was gonna rely on any boost to last. My local shop specializes in in autronic sales and tuning
http://www.autronic.com/page_files/smc_kit.htm
http://www.autronic.com/page_files/smc_kit.htm
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ive run into the same problem.
always wanted to boost it simply for the bov, but then i realized 225 whp (N/A) vs 225 whp (Turbo) odds are the N/A will win. then i though about what i want. do i want a race car or a weekend warrior? i figured theres 22s out there putting 250+ whp N/A and that would be sufficiant for a weekend warrior in my town. plus i looked at the cost it will cost in engine work due to the FRM cylinder walls and the fact that if i boosted it i would want to do all the engine work the RIGHT way and that would cost an arm and a leg, and the fact that it would take so long to get the work done for boost where i live. plus think of the props you will get beating a boosted car
and with N/A you dont have that issue of detonation like you do with the turbo. I found a shop who said they will put the mugen headers for the 97-01 lude on my 92 so that ups my wants for N/A (and yes they have done it before and the car runs strong).
Theres my input. N/A is my vote
edit: Dont wanna thread jack but can someone send me a message about why the ITB loses dirvability?
always wanted to boost it simply for the bov, but then i realized 225 whp (N/A) vs 225 whp (Turbo) odds are the N/A will win. then i though about what i want. do i want a race car or a weekend warrior? i figured theres 22s out there putting 250+ whp N/A and that would be sufficiant for a weekend warrior in my town. plus i looked at the cost it will cost in engine work due to the FRM cylinder walls and the fact that if i boosted it i would want to do all the engine work the RIGHT way and that would cost an arm and a leg, and the fact that it would take so long to get the work done for boost where i live. plus think of the props you will get beating a boosted car
and with N/A you dont have that issue of detonation like you do with the turbo. I found a shop who said they will put the mugen headers for the 97-01 lude on my 92 so that ups my wants for N/A (and yes they have done it before and the car runs strong).Theres my input. N/A is my vote
edit: Dont wanna thread jack but can someone send me a message about why the ITB loses dirvability?
Hmm, if the FRM sleeves are the only thing holding you from boost, then why dont you do a G22/23?
F22/23 block (cast iron) + H22 Head (
) = turbo secks
There ya go, FRM problem eluded. And besides, if you blow up your F block, they are dime a dozen. Turbo is there for you if you really want it. Do a search for this combo, i forget the link, but there's ton's of info on this setup. Might be looking into for you guys.
F22/23 block (cast iron) + H22 Head (
) = turbo secksThere ya go, FRM problem eluded. And besides, if you blow up your F block, they are dime a dozen. Turbo is there for you if you really want it. Do a search for this combo, i forget the link, but there's ton's of info on this setup. Might be looking into for you guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roller3804 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ITB's will def drop the driveability of your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
In all fairness...
so will boosting...
ITB's will def drop the driveability of your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
In all fairness...
so will boosting...
err, there is no option to vote for both, ITB with a custom manifold enclosure would be very nice boosted, look up tonythetiger in the forced induction forum.. very nice setup,
so i vote both
so i vote both
thanks for the input. . . so the votes leanin WAY out for n/a, I also feel the same way about the respectable part of the issue, as far as when I romp on some ones ***, the first thing they ALWAYS ask is you got a turbo on that thang? it puts a big o smile on my face face saying, no! So I am pretty much ruling out the boost, as it would be an endless spending festivity and equal more down time for my car after I blow the rings and want/have to spend $4k on a bottm end.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22chilton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"no username exists": tonythetiger, I take it he has a boosted itb set up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zero...=1706
search for archived threads of his..
https://honda-tech.com/zero...=1706
search for archived threads of his..
so which itb's (bike) are commonly used for the h22? I saw a couple sets made but the outter runnners had to be angled 15 degrees in order to line up w/ the 22 intake ports. or is it "that big" of a deal that there is a slight angle.?
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