I have the UR SS pulley set(alt,ps,crank) currently on my R. I have been concerned lately about not having the harmonic balancer that is on the stock unit. After a few track days I do plan on removing the ps system completely(thanks to Padawan for the kit ). I also dislike the dimming lights due to the underdriven alt. Once the ps is removed I will replace the alt pulley with stock.

My question is which crank pulley should I run after the ps is removed? Stock? CTR N1? Inlinefour(which has the harmonic balancer)? Did I miss any?

Any other suggestions?

 

Are you serious? First you should know the side effects to running an undampned crankshaft pully. Second, if I were to run anything other than stock I'd get a Fluydamper, but thats only if it was a built up motor.

Third, you didnt search:

» Search Results

Your search for Crankshaft Pulley returned 130 results

Your search for CTR Pulley returned 177 results.

Theres plenty of good debates on the effects of an undampned one, but guess what, the guys who say stay dampned... are right.

 

Fair enough. I have read lots of the pulley debates and I suppose I should've been more direct with my question.

Has anyone ever run the Inlinefour pulley with the harmonic balancer?

At this point I would choose either the above or stock.

Sorry for starting another pulley debate

 

Hey Chris, get either a ATi Damper or a Fluidampr.

I can get you the ATi at a good price

 

Alex, I don't want to run the Fluidampr or Ati because they are heavy and would have a negative effect in terms of horsepower since my motor is stock internally. I would run stock before the Ati unit.

Thanks though

 

I think the dampened pulley that your referring to is the service that a couple shops do. I know that you can send your stock crank pulley to King and for $100 they take off the AC and PS portion and then rebalance it and powdercoat it. I plan on doing that soon since I've already put about 5K on the car with the CTR N1 pulley.

 

my brothers R has 90K on it and had a UR crank pulley 85k of those and no problems yet i wonder if all the people who say there bad have any proof of a engine failing because of a pully?


Read this....
"People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that makes them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke length, displacement, inline, V configurations, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.""

Quick notes " the little rubber ring on the factory pulley is not a harmonic damper it is there to reduce NVH"

 

^^^^interesting read. Good to know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^^interesting read. Good to know </TD></TR></TABLE>

very

 

another option, you can also have your stock itr pulley machined to get rid of the ps and ac portion like it did. have it balanced and you're all good to go.

 

Just PM R U Serious or Looose_R and ask them what Mr Spoon (whatever his name is) said about the use of the undampned CTR pully... not meant for long term use to say the least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just PM R U Serious or Looose_R and ask them what Mr Spoon (whatever his name is) said about the use of the undampned CTR pully... not meant for long term use to say the least. </TD></TR></TABLE>

don't listen to mr spoon, he paints his cars ricer yellow and blue

 

I would like MR spoon to tell me how a little piece of rubber dampens your cranks. honda crank pullys are not the same as what is in old V8's

 

Its funny that you'd post a few paragraphs from Unorthodox's website (Google pwnt you), of course they're not going to tell the real story, thats like going to GW Bush for his view on the war in Iraq, somewhat biased? Yes.

I'd rather get facts and views from people who have actually looked further into it, as opposed to what the company who makes what theyre trying to sell says:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=343351

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=219450

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=600579

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1138062

Its clearly a touchy subject for those who belive that the benefits far outweigh the negatives, the rest of those who know realize that its not going to be all that worth it (in fact you'd expect to find more following of this mod in the RR/Auto-x where every little bit helps, but you dont ) stick with the stock pulley or get an aftermarket quality dampner (which still usually weigh MORE than stock).

 

Seems like a very touchy subject. I feel like I started a "which oil is best" type thread now . Lots of "there is no damper on the stock crank pulley anyway" or "the CTR N1 is fine" or "it lowers the life of your engine" It seems the argument could go either way really.

I've put about 20-25k(that's kilometers people) on the car with the UR set and I haven't had any problems so far :knocks on wood:.

I'll most likely leave it alone until the ps is being removed. The King Motorsport option seems to be the direction I would take if I feel the stock pulley could use a diet.

 

I dont care what you need that damper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just PM R U Serious or Looose_R and ask them what Mr Spoon (whatever his name is) said about the use of the undampned CTR pully... not meant for long term use to say the least. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I remember that he said something like with a B16 the engines were good for around 15k kilometers, with B18's 10k kilometers and with B20's 5k kilometers before something would break or they would need to be rebuilt. (Give or take 5k kilometers with these, I'm going by memory). My question then would be, is Ichishima-san talking about high-rpm racing conditions where the most vibration would be prevalent or street conditions?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its funny that you'd post a few paragraphs from Unorthodox's website (Google pwnt you), of course they're not going to tell the real story, thats like going to GW Bush for his view on the war in Iraq, somewhat biased? Yes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what the hell i never said i didn't get it from there website what's it matter where i got it i was just giving out information that i believe.

what is this "google pwnt you" ok mr investigator youv'e found my little secret

 

Chris, put your stock pully back on. For your uses, and your engine, nothing else makes any sense.

BTW, I lost my license for 4 months (stupid icbc) and haven't driven the R for about that long again, love to hook up and get a vicarious thrill one of these days...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chris, put your stock pully back on. For your uses, and your engine, nothing else makes any sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the tip, I most likely will once the ps is removed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, I lost my license for 4 months (stupid icbc) and haven't driven the R for about that long again, love to hook up and get a vicarious thrill one of these days...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that just sucks . Don't get me started on ICBC. It would be a Dennis Miller style rant that would last three days. I'll PM you about hooking up, perhaps this weekend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommymoose &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I remember that he said something like with a B16 the engines were good for around 15k kilometers, with B18's 10k kilometers and with B20's 5k kilometers before something would break or they would need to be rebuilt. (Give or take 5k kilometers with these, I'm going by memory). My question then would be, is Ichishima-san talking about high-rpm racing conditions where the most vibration would be prevalent or street conditions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he basically said was...

ctr crank pulley is balanced for 1600cc from 6000 rpms and up. hence race only.
for 1800 cc he said it was trouble and the pistons will be quite slap happy by 10k kilos. for 2000cc's he just laughed. (not a fan at all on a side note ) Im assuming these are race miles of course.

there is much more vibration at high rpms than lower, although though this is not to say there isnt much below 6000rpm at all.

I dont think its a good idea for 1800cc motor. there are better things you can do for your car, the wear on the bearings just doesnt seem worth it.