Hey guys, I have made the decision that I want to lower my car more. It's already lowered 2.25" all around and I want to adjust it a bit more. However, I'm unsure of how to estimate how much I'm lowering the car by adjusting the spring. Is there any smart/valid way for me to do this in the most logical manner? Additionally, am I supposed to adjust the coilover with the allen wrench they provided me with or is there something else I need to use. What should be my rule of thumb in terms of adjusting everything correctly/efficiently in terms of making sure I'm dropping the shocks evenly in length? Should I mark the shock? Any help is appreciated. Additionally, do I adjust the height by twisting the coilover with the allen wrench provided? Left is higher and right is lower? Thanks.

God Bless,
Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm unsure of how to estimate how much I'm lowering the car by adjusting the spring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not really sure what you mean. Just thread the spring seat up or down, drop the car, repeat as necessary until it's where you want it. If you're talking about getting an exact measurement, you could just measure and mark the threaded collar, and then adjust.

Use the allen key to loosen the lock screw, then just turn the collar to adjust it up or down.

 

If the car is level all you should have to do is count the rotations and do the same number at each corner.

If you want to get real technicall you use the thread pitch to dial in the exact drop you want. (i.e. if the thread size 2" x 16, 16 rotations will drop it an inch, or if its metric: M30 x 2mm 1 rotation will drop 2 mm) but I don't know what the thread size is, I'm someone here does.

 

If you really want to get technical, you should have the car cornerweighted. Good luck finding a shop that has those expensive scale setups though. You would be best to just count the number of threads from the bottom of the sleeve, up to the spring seat. Next you just match that on the other side. Now put the car back on the ground & eyeball it. Adjust one side if neccisary, and they eyeball it agian. Once the car looks even, lock the perches into place with allen screw & call it a day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to get technical, you should have the car cornerweighted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Although a cornerbalanced car will never be even; every corner will be at a different height.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Although a cornerbalanced car will never be even; every corner will be at a different height.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true, but this is the proper way to set your coil-overs (I know you know that, I'm just informing the noobs). It's more a function-over-form thing though. I'm sure it's a pretty spendy way to go too...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Very true, but this is the proper way to set your coil-overs (I know you know that, I'm just informing the noobs). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, same here. I was picturing some kid going into a real race shop, spending $300 on a corner balance; then freaking out because it's all uneven, and posting in GDD how he got scammed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm sure it's a pretty spendy way to go too... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn straight, the lowest model of Longacre scales is over a grand. I did see somewhere where some kids got 10 bathroom scales from Target ($6 ea.) They used three for each front tire, and two for the rears with a wooden plank to distribute the wieght over the scales. I may give that a shot this season...

 

thank you guys, I guess I'll just have to figure it out. I wish I knew what the equivalence of one turn is in terms of dropping of height.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you guys, I guess I'll just have to figure it out. I wish I knew what the equivalence of one turn is in terms of dropping of height.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

One complete turn of the spring seat should cause the car to lower or raise 1.7 times the distance between each thread.

 

And what would that be in metric measurment eg? If you have any idea at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And what would that be in metric measurment eg? If you have any idea at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could I ask what you're trying to get at? Is there some reason you need to be so accurate as to how much you lower the car?

 

It doesn't matter how accurate you are when you set it. Once you get in the car, it all changes, making it kinda a waste of time. Just eyeball it & call it a day...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you guys, I guess I'll just have to figure it out. I wish I knew what the equivalence of one turn is in terms of dropping of height.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

is it really that hard to jack up the car and spin the collar? You donlt even need to take the wheel off to change the height.

 

but cornerweighting doesn't make it that uneven, does it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but cornerweighting doesn't make it that uneven, does it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, absolutely it will. You're basically raising and lowering corners to even out the weight distribution.

The reason most people complain of an uneven drop with just springs is that there is more weight on the DR side because the engine sits mostly on that side. In order to compensate for this, that side would be raised up higher than the passenger side to distribute some of the weight when cornerbalancing.

 

so in otherwords, it will be noticeable to the eye, the difference in height from side to side or front to back could be greater than a quater-inch, for example.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so in otherwords, it will be noticeable to the eye, the difference in height from side to side or front to back could be greater than a quater-inch, for example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When cornerbalancing? Possibly; depends on the weight of the car and distribution.

At a nationals event, they had scales to make sure competitors met minimum wieghts, and I got a chance to get my car on there. I had about 10% difference in cross-weights (which is huge), but I still placed second in my region last season. I still haven't cornerweighted the car, as it's not fully developed yet. So for a street car, cornerbalancing is absolutely and utterly useless.

 

corner weighing/balancing is over rated in my opinion.

just an opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">corner weighing/balancing is over rated in my opinion.

just an opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, like I said, mine is waaaay off, and hasn't made too much of a difference. I think the only time it will ake any difference at all is if you've pretty much built up everything else about the car; and even then, I'm not so sure.

 

didn't read the whole thread, but just count your threads man. On the GC's, the threads are far apart which makes counting them by sliding your fingers very easy

 

So turning the allen key to the right lowers the car more and to the left makes the height higher?

 

umm the allen bolt just locks the perch in place, you loosen the allen bolt so you can turn the perch on the colar which then changes height.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so in otherwords, it will be noticeable to the eye, the difference in height from side to side or front to back could be greater than a quater-inch, for example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not to the eye. most of the time in a H4 car or something similiar your don't have to change that much.