So i have a problem with the battery draining. Battery=good, alternator=good. So now i just need to find out what's draining my battery. I got a multimeter tester and found out that sure enough SOMETHING is draining my battery. I then began to pull each fuse 1 by 1 in hopes of finding the drain. Didn't happen. Never found it. Any ideas on how to find the drain?

 

did you use an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable? I have the same problem with my car. 2 days and the battery is dead. Charge it up and its dead again in 2 days. Anyway, i havent checked mine yet because its been too damn cold. Let me know if you find anything.

BTW, what was your reading? I think someone posted in my thread that it should be 2mA if everything is working good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So i have a problem with the battery draining. Battery=good, alternator=good. So now i just need to find out what's draining my battery. I got a multimeter tester and found out that sure enough SOMETHING is draining my battery. I then began to pull each fuse 1 by 1 in hopes of finding the drain. Didn't happen. Never found it. Any ideas on how to find the drain?</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you know the battery is good? If you can't find anythng draining the battery - the battery has to be bad. It can't hold a charge.

Battery's don't like being drained and charged constantly - unless you have a deep cycle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How do you know the battery is good? If you can't find anythng draining the battery - the battery has to be bad. It can't hold a charge.

Battery's don't like being drained and charged constantly - unless you have a deep cycle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

battery is BRAND new. AND i know its good cause what i have done to solve my problem is disconnect the battery every time i turn the car off and reconnect it when i need to drive it again. Battery holds its charge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sabbotage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you use an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable? I have the same problem with my car. 2 days and the battery is dead. Charge it up and its dead again in 2 days. Anyway, i havent checked mine yet because its been too damn cold. Let me know if you find anything.

BTW, what was your reading? I think someone posted in my thread that it should be 2mA if everything is working good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is that what im supposed to do? I only put it on the negative battery cable? I wasn't sure if i wsa using the damn thing right...

 

you need to check for parasitic battery drain...a lot of times its a short, loose or missing ground cable or something stupid like an aftermarket cd player that isnt wired right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is that what im supposed to do? I only put it on the negative battery cable? I wasn't sure if i wsa using the damn thing right...</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha. Yeah, connect to the negative battery cable in SERIES. And, make sure you have the the DMM on amps. Then start pulling fuses one by one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha. Yeah, connect to the negative battery cable in SERIES. And, make sure you have the the DMM on amps. Then start pulling fuses one by one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm....that's great, i don't understand what you mean by the only capital lettering word..."SERIES". Evidently i understand everything but the most important thing Is it necessary to pull the inside fuses as well?

 

parasitic drain test, then leave the fuses in and test them from the points on top of the fuse to see if they have any voltage if they do then someting on that circuit is your drain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm....that's great, i don't understand what you mean by the only capital lettering word..."SERIES". Evidently i understand everything but the most important thing Is it necessary to pull the inside fuses as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

In other words, you need to run through the meter.

You had it in parallel like this (as a voltmeter):


But in order to test current it has to be in series like this (as an ammeter):


EDIT: So you'll have to disconnect a battery cable, hook up one lead of meter to battery and other lead of battery to the wire you disconnected.

Also look here: http://www.doctronics.co.uk/meter.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed95lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">parasitic drain test, then leave the fuses in and test them from the points on top of the fuse to see if they have any voltage if they do then someting on that circuit is your drain</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh...not really...you have a lot of fuses which are hot at all times. how many miliamps is it drawing anyways? i'm not sure if you were kiddin about now knowing was series was but if you werent then i'll explain. ok disconnect the negative cable and put one lead of the dmm on the battery - and one on the battery- cable. this completes the circuit. first try it on the 10 amp fused ammeter so if there is like 1 amp draw you wont blow the fuse in your meter. if it reads nothing or like half an amp or lower then switch it to the miliamp scale. a good reading would be around 5-50 miliamps or something around there. now start pulling fuses and checking to see if the amp draw drops. dont pull like the pcm fuse or the fuse to any module becuase they draw a little bit of amperage and then you'll be searching for a parasitic draw that doesnt exist. but when you pull the right fuse it will drop down and then you check that circuit. the draw is usually from a lighting circuit. first i'd try pulling the fuses in the passenger compartment then if none of those change the reading start pulling the main fuses from the engine compartment.

 

thanks a lot for the help everyone, i'll check it the right way tomorrow

 

make sure you post back with your readings cuz im anxious to know them, since i have a similar problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowblind7x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmm....that's great, i don't understand what you mean by the only capital lettering word..."SERIES". Evidently i understand everything but the most important thing Is it necessary to pull the inside fuses as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just making sure you hook it up in series so you don't blow your ammeter........'cause if you hook it up in paralell - say good bye because the magic smoke will definately come out.

I actually think 50miliamps is too much for our cars. I would say under 40miliamps.