Problems with ITR short block swap in Si
Over the weekend, I swapped a b18c5 short block into my Civic Si. Its got CTR pistons (higher cr) and is running on the stock ECU for now until i can get it tuned. Everything went smoothly, and at start up, there was only 1 code (one of the sensors we missed). I plugged it in, reset the ECU and fired it up. The car idles funny, and its not smooth at all. Also, when started cold, the revs did not rise to the normal "cold-start" rpm and stabilize there...the engine idled around 1200-1300 rpm. Then, while driving, it wont go over 2k rpms before hitting whats almost like a rev limiter and then dying. It'll go over 2k rpms without load, but with load, theres nothing. The wierd thing is, that there is NO CEL!!! Also, trying to go up the hill on my driveway, it just dies. Almost as if there is no power. I havent checked the timing yet, and some say it has to do with the distributor. Any ideas?
Well, what's your timing at? Maybe you installed the timing belt incorrectly.
But using 1.6l ECU on a 1.8l engine with higher compression might also be the problem...
But using 1.6l ECU on a 1.8l engine with higher compression might also be the problem...
The ecu is just temporary because i built my motor here at home and my tuner is pretty far away. I know it will start and run fine on the stock ECU, maybe just a tad lean up top (i wont be beating on it). We did some trouble shooting today and i'm pretty sure it skipped a tooth. i'll check it tonight
Current symtoms are:
Lack of throttle response
400 rpm idle
zero ability to rev past 25--3500
DIes with anything more than 25% tps.
If you take the bolts out of the dist, and advance it as far as it will allow, idle clears up to 800 or so, and it will rev no problem, however, I cannot advance it further, simply for troubleshooting.
Plugs are black, injectors are clean, it has fuel pressure, just lacks spark at the right time.
How are the ECU maps like with no MAP referece? It got better with NO MAP plugged in, not much, but enough to note a change.
Also, are these the symptoms of a possible skipped tooth? Or maybe wrong installation of the timing belt?
Lack of throttle response
400 rpm idle
zero ability to rev past 25--3500
DIes with anything more than 25% tps.
If you take the bolts out of the dist, and advance it as far as it will allow, idle clears up to 800 or so, and it will rev no problem, however, I cannot advance it further, simply for troubleshooting.
Plugs are black, injectors are clean, it has fuel pressure, just lacks spark at the right time.
How are the ECU maps like with no MAP referece? It got better with NO MAP plugged in, not much, but enough to note a change.
Also, are these the symptoms of a possible skipped tooth? Or maybe wrong installation of the timing belt?
i know this sounds stupid... but check to make sure you plugged the correct connector into its corresponding sensor... many of them plug into one another.
a haynes manual will name all the colors of the wires that should go to each sensor.
although this would set off a CEL in most cases... theres no lose in checking just to be sure.
if that checks out, then i believe its your timing..
a haynes manual will name all the colors of the wires that should go to each sensor.
although this would set off a CEL in most cases... theres no lose in checking just to be sure.
if that checks out, then i believe its your timing..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purduinasi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are the ECU maps like with no MAP referece? It got better with NO MAP plugged in, not much, but enough to note a change.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The fuel and ignition maps are referenced by MAP and RPM input. You're getting the gas mileage of a Diablo without it plugged in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purduinasi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, are these the symptoms of a possible skipped tooth? Or maybe wrong installation of the timing belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a timing light?
The fuel and ignition maps are referenced by MAP and RPM input. You're getting the gas mileage of a Diablo without it plugged in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purduinasi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, are these the symptoms of a possible skipped tooth? Or maybe wrong installation of the timing belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a timing light?
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I think that u have a couple of problems....I would bet that your IACV and something else is plugged in incorrectly. Also I had a very similar problem with the rpm's in combination with load. It ended up being the ignitor in my dizzy of all things.
Check:
All sensors and make sure the correct plug is in the correct spot.
Change ur dizzy with a friend and see what happenes.
Check your timing.
These are just problems i've had in the past which gave me similar symtoms as your describing.
Check:
All sensors and make sure the correct plug is in the correct spot.
Change ur dizzy with a friend and see what happenes.
Check your timing.
These are just problems i've had in the past which gave me similar symtoms as your describing.
You missed a tooth or they or whom ever on your timing belt.
That is what happens.
also, you can run your ecu perfectly with that setup but, you will be running a tad rich (no ***** to wall wot over 5000rpm) the ecu uses the existing sensor to process its information eg o2 ect to compenate for fuel to a certain extent. You are still running lean and will be until fixed with some type of air flow metering. I highly suggest for the time being getting a FPR and gauge 80 bucks and turn your fuel PSI to at least 52psi to try to compensate for fuel.
Also, i don't know why every one want chipped ecus. thats very insufficient it seems you spent enought money on that block to spend an extra 300 on hondata s100 system and run it properly. anyways check your timing $60, FPR and gauge set it to 52psi !!! Remember your stock ecu should only be temperary and not used for wot and high rpms.
freindly advise take it as you will
Anthony
That is what happens.
also, you can run your ecu perfectly with that setup but, you will be running a tad rich (no ***** to wall wot over 5000rpm) the ecu uses the existing sensor to process its information eg o2 ect to compenate for fuel to a certain extent. You are still running lean and will be until fixed with some type of air flow metering. I highly suggest for the time being getting a FPR and gauge 80 bucks and turn your fuel PSI to at least 52psi to try to compensate for fuel.
Also, i don't know why every one want chipped ecus. thats very insufficient it seems you spent enought money on that block to spend an extra 300 on hondata s100 system and run it properly. anyways check your timing $60, FPR and gauge set it to 52psi !!! Remember your stock ecu should only be temperary and not used for wot and high rpms.
freindly advise take it as you will
Anthony
hondata is already purchased, like i said, i'm just waiting to go get it tuned now...
it was the TPS and MAP sensors switched, go figure....
Now i'm having other problems though
it was the TPS and MAP sensors switched, go figure....
Now i'm having other problems though
what water pump, timing belt and oil pump are you using? could have something to do with the timing being off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purduinasi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hondata is already purchased, like i said, i'm just waiting to go get it tuned now...
it was the TPS and MAP sensors switched, go figure....
Now i'm having other problems though </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, told ya
now check that timing and let us know whats goin on
it was the TPS and MAP sensors switched, go figure....
Now i'm having other problems though </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, told ya
now check that timing and let us know whats goin on
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mr shaun
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Aug 24, 2006 08:42 AM




