HESITATION! AT LOWER THROTTLE, MID THROTTLE, FULL THROTTLE. Occasionally throttle feels normal. Vtec is even lagging sometimes. What is wrong with my god damn car. I also got a code 1 last night. My idle is erratic as expletive. Where are the 20 year honda veterans at?

1990 Honda CRX Si - B16a transplant
p30 OBD-1 ecu
skunk2 intake manifold
aem hybrid cold air
aem fuel rail
4-2-1 headers
spoon sports 70mm throttle body
tanabe hyper medallion full cat
rc 240cc fuel injectors
port and polish

New parts:
fuel pump
fuel filter
fuel injectors
map sensor
tp sensor
obd-1 distributor
oxygen sensor
denso iridium spark plugs
cap n rotor
ignition wires
electronic air control valve
fan switch
engine coolant temperature sensor
temp sending unit


Why am I still getting a fucked up a/f ratio and my motor is performing so poorly?


Modified by B16aSir2 at 6:51 AM 2/16/2006


Modified by B16aSir2 at 6:51 AM 2/16/2006


Modified by B16aSir2 at 9:23 AM 2/16/2006


Modified by B16aSir2 at 9:25 AM 2/16/2006

 

My only guess would be dirty injectors. You replaced most of the common reasons and thats about all I can think of. Possibly a wiring issue with your injectors as well. Good luck.

 

I had similar symptom with my B16 except mine is ODB-0. The cause of mine was that the O2's were backwards.

 

Yea, I had that problem in OBD-0, I just unplugged my one 02(cause I had aftermarket header with one o2 plug) and it ran in open loop but no hesitation. Now I am obd-1 with the 4 wire o2 sensor. And the hesitation is 100 times worse.

I did replace the fuel injectors, I forgot to put that in there. They are brand new RC injectors(240cc[stock flowrate]). I also received a flowrate printout sheet proving they function fine. I also replaced the fuel filter. And I replaced the throttle body with a spoon sports throttle body which came with a brand new tps and map sensor. Come on guys, what is going on here?

 

I have checked every hose and orifice on the intake manifold for a vacuum leak. I sprayed them with carb/choke cleaner and noticed no changes in my idle. Although it is hard to tell with the damn thing surging up and down constantly. This is some bullshit man. I just want my B16 to run right, wtf is with this cursed ******* motor?

 

GRRRRRRR I WANT TO RACE SRT-4's AGAIN!

 

what brand o2 is it. you need to be using ngk

 

I have been using baush universal. Is that my god damn problem? And for what year vehicle would I be able to purchase a 4-wire one that will fit my car? Would the car run worse with the 02 sensor unplugged or better? It definately runs richer, you can smell it but it runs worse. So I don't think that is necessarily the entire problem, maybe just part of it.

Also peewee let me ask you this. Would an IAT sensor cause hesitation and/or erratic idle? Cause when I start my car when it's cold it revs up to the usual 1.8-2k then after 2 seconds, drops down to 1k, then starts to fluctuate up a little bit trying to find the proper warmup rpm and it seems to be having trouble there as well. Not to mention that even at a stand still now, with no load, the car will hesitate when reving. lagtime. What could be the cause of this? I looked over that intake manifold front and back and see no posibility for a leak, but that has to be what is happening.


Modified by B16aSir2 at 11:53 AM 2/17/2006

 

Also, anyone know if iridium spark plugs damper performance? Maybe that is why I am getting a weak spark or something randomly?

 

Come on guys, what causes hesitation and erratic idle.....list some symptoms.

 

that bosch o2 is probably not doing you any good. you just need to get a NGK o2 for an obd 1 civic

 

and your cold idle problems are probably from your fast idle vavle. and iridium plugs arent better plugs, they just last longer. i just use NGK v-powers. they are only like $2 each

 

I have a spoon sports throttle body with no fast idle valve. The map sensor is also located on the throttle body.

 

when u put on a new tps did u recal. it? And run the o2 sensor in factory spot, and try swapping them at the ecu

 

Swap your ECU and check your wiring. Might have a a wiring issue if the mechanical part of it is right. All swaps have little issues. Just take your time and go over everything. Make sure your throttle cable is secure and not too tight or loose for the thottle body. Too loose of a cable can give you the 'lag' you are taking about.

And racing SRT4 comment, let them be, everyone knows they suck now.

 

I never get any CELs, and the power loss is intermitten. The erratic idle is pretty consistent. Every gear I feel the power loss at some point. The tps came on the spoon sports throttle body and I didn't touch it. The tamper paint is still there. The o2 sensor sits right before my cat on my custom headers. I don't have another obd-1 ecu Could a faulty oxygen sensor, not throwing a code, cause these problems?

 

you could always try this here . . . .

http://www.realtechnews.com/posts/2598

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16aSir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never get any CELs, and the power loss is intermitten. The erratic idle is pretty consistent. Every gear I feel the power loss at some point. The tps came on the spoon sports throttle body and I didn't touch it. The tamper paint is still there. The o2 sensor sits right before my cat on my custom headers. I don't have another obd-1 ecu Could a faulty oxygen sensor, not throwing a code, cause these problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Calibrate your TPS....that's your best bet right now.

 

If the tps has tamper paint on it doesn't that mean it was set? I am pretty sure spoon would set that before sending it to me, and if I alter their measurements then I am probably going to further expletive myself.

 

Calibrating it is about the easiest thing you can do. It may have been set from the factory, but all it takes is a good jostle to get them off, not to mention they break VERY easily.

Also (maybe you already mentioned this) have you checked dizzy timing and cam timing....????

 

Well, I don't know how to check it myself, but a trusted mechanic said it was fine. I believe he checked it. But I have never seen myself that the timing was set correctly. My fuel pressure goes down slightly, and I have replaced my fuel pump, checked lines there, replaced my injectors o-rings and my fuel pressure regulator to attempt to rememdy the problem and I still am at 0 the next day. I am sick of throwing money at this god damn car. I pulled the spark plugs and they were white, signfying lean mixture. DANGEROUS! NO VTEC for me I guess. And I use it anyways. The little bit of normal acceleration I have is most of the time in vtec. lol. This is kind of hard because none of you guys can see the engine yourselves.

 

Make sure your timing is set correctly, both cam and dizzy....that can be dangerous. TPS timing is easy to check to. If you're not familiar with that just let us know, we can walk you through it.

 

I appreciate it, I have never set my cam or ignition timing before. My friend has a timing light, but I don't know how to use the damn thing. I would like to check that as soon as possible. Then I would like to measure the resistance on the tps. So I can rule those out. Why would the car seem to be trying to warmup properly, but then when it's warm and idling around 900 as soon as you hit the gas a couple times, small revs or big revs, it will send it into the erratic idle nonstop until the car shuts off again? I think I am getting too much air from the mods and not enough fuel so the car is trying to compensate by throwing more fuel and then once it sees the rpms going to high it cuts off the fuel for a second so the idle drops, but then it drops to 1000 it gives it more fuel to keep it from dropping anymore and hence the fluctuation? Would the above mods throw off stock idle and fuel/ignition timing maps that much?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16aSir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I appreciate it, I have never set my cam or ignition timing before. My friend has a timing light, but I don't know how to use the damn thing. I would like to check that as soon as possible. Then I would like to measure the resistance on the tps. So I can rule those out. Why would the car seem to be trying to warmup properly, but then when it's warm and idling around 900 as soon as you hit the gas a couple times, small revs or big revs, it will send it into the erratic idle nonstop until the car shuts off again? I think I am getting too much air from the mods and not enough fuel so the car is trying to compensate by throwing more fuel and then once it sees the rpms going to high it cuts off the fuel for a second so the idle drops, but then it drops to 1000 it gives it more fuel to keep it from dropping anymore and hence the fluctuation? Would the above mods throw off stock idle and fuel/ignition timing maps that much?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't believe so. I have almost exactly the same mods as you, and I never had the problem...I was running a generic tune also. I would guess somewhere along the lines timing got messed up. What is the reason that you changed the dizzy stuff, was it going out?

 

well if you want to rule out A/F throw it on a dyno for a couple runs with a wideband O2 sensor. that will tell you where your A/F holes are.

as for your O2 sensor i don't know if somthing like that would cause that much of a problem without throwing a code but it's possible.

all tho you mentioned the IAT that does sound like it could be your idle prolems it's possible.

like people have been saying just go through everything again. sometimes it's the small thing you thought you checked twice but never did. i know it's frustrationg as hell but just relax and take your time. make a check list and go through it one by one.

good luck to you.