Well, I was sitting at a stoplight being bored. So, I let the car roll back, and then let the clutch out a little til it rolled forward, then i put the clutch in til the car started to roll back, and yada-yada. Well, one time i didn't give it enough gas and it stalled out.
No big deal i thought, and as I tried to start it, it just cranked. It wouldn't turn over. It just cranked and cranked. I called my dad and we pushed it to a gas station.
We tried jumping it, tried WOT cranking, nuthing. So, i did some searching here on honda tech and here's what I came up with:

-Timing Belt jumped or broke
-Grounds snapped or came off
-Reddish Dust inside distributor (Internal Crankshaft Sensor shot...)
-Rotor attatched?
-"Air Flow Meter" (butterfly like device in the intake of the throttle body)
-Hold plug wire to dizzy to check for spark
-One click from CEL once it turns off after KOEO. no click = bad solder joints on main relay
-Fuel filter
-Distributor (Inside, sensors?)
-you can take a screwdriver and bridge the little black wire going into the starter and the main cable that comes from the battery to the starter and the car should start as long as it's not the starter


Anyone had this happen before? Anything else I should check for? It's sitting at a gas station and I'm going to get it tom. If i can't start it i'm towing it home. Please help me w/ my baby!

<FONT SIZE="4">***EDIT***</FONT>

UPDATE: See my update post below.


Modified by Tippyman98 at 8:31 PM 2/16/2006


Modified by Tippyman98 at 8:31 PM 2/16/2006

 

Check timing belt and groundings. Timing/timing belt should take you 5-10 minutes to check. Groundings as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check timing belt and groundings. Timing/timing belt should take you 5-10 minutes to check. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What am I checking for w/ the timing belt?

 

check the main relay. turn the key to run and listen for a click hummmmmmmmmm click. just like that. if you dont hear anything then ur main relay is bad. it should humm when the check engine light is on right when you put the key to run

 

Where is the main relay? If it's bad, how do I go about replacing it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What am I checking for w/ the timing belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it snapped? Is it there? is the cam timing correct? Grab a 24 wrench (if i remember correctly) or 22. And twist it all the way around to look for bad teeth.

Check groundings, check main relay as the guy above me tells you to. Do that first. Its the easiest thing to check. But i got a finger on the timing belt considering what you were doing when it stalled.

 

take the cap off and have someone crank it over see if the rotor spins if it spins the timing belt aint broke, check the plugs couldnt hurt, maybe fouled or gap out of spec slight possibility, spray some starter fluid right into the intake tube to see if its a fuel problem

 

Well, when checking the timing belt, How would I know if it jumped a tooth? What would a bad tooth loook like?

 

My crx does this 1 out of every 10 times i stall. wait 5 mintues starts again no problem. no effin clue what it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_racer86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My crx does this 1 out of every 10 times i stall. wait 5 mintues starts again no problem. no effin clue what it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, that's kinda hope-inspiring that it will start tomorrow but at the same time making me sad that it could do it again.

 

Main relay. Try tapping it with the butt end of a screwdriver while cranking it. The relay usually works fine until it heats up a little bit. Then when you try to restart the car, the solder connections aren't made and it won't start. After 5-10 minutes, it's usually cool enough to work again. They're right though, it does sound like a timing problem.

 

Sounds like a snapped timing belt, but we'll find out when you check.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_racer86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My crx does this 1 out of every 10 times i stall. wait 5 mintues starts again no problem. no effin clue what it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think I've stalled 10 times since I got my civic a year or two ago..

 

g'mornin sir's.

Checked that timing belt yet? A bad tooth is a tooth that aint there. Pull off the distributor cap and crank the car. If it turns, the belt havent snapped. if it does. Mount the cap again, head over to the other side of the engine and pick down the plastique protecting the cam gears and mount it to 0 position to check timing. I bet you 5 bucks its off. I even bet you 10 bucks that your belts broken.

 

Aight, thanx for the help. I'm checking the dizzy tonight and I don't know if Ill have time to check the belt or not. I got it towed home and its sitting in my garage all sad...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Pull off the distributor cap and crank the car. If it turns, the belt havent snapped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did that and the rotor spins fine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">head over to the other side of the engine and pick down the plastique protecting the cam gears and mount it to 0 position to check timing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
head over to the other side of the engine and pick down the plastique protecting the cam gears and mount it to 0 position to check timing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

he is talking about making sure your timing is correct. there should be a mark on the cam gear showing where tdc is. same with the crank pulley. rotate the crank by the pulley bolt until the marks are lined up. if they both line up, your timing is correct.

 

<FONT SIZE="5">UPDATE:</FONT>

- I checked to see if the rotor is spinning when I crank it. It is.
- I held the plug wire up to the distributor to see if I was getting spark. I am.
- I pulled out all the plugs. They all smelled like gas, had gas on them, and looked perfect.
- I checked for the "Click-whirr-click" and it is working.
- I checked the fuel pump and my fuel pump kill switch. They both work perfectly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jacoop86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he is talking about making sure your timing is correct. there should be a mark on the cam gear showing where tdc is. same with the crank pulley. rotate the crank by the pulley bolt until the marks are lined up. if they both line up, your timing is correct.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wanted to check the timing belt but the cover is on! My Chilton's said to remove the front driver wheel, engine mount, alternator, etc. and then remove the cover. Can I check the timing belt w/out doing all this?

 

BTW: D15B1 in a 91 Civic Std.

 

All you have to do is remove the top timing cover, that covers the cam gear. But if the rotor is spinning when you crank it, then the timing belt is intact, because the distributor is connected to the camshaft, which is connected to the crank by the timing belt.

 

How do I just remove the top timing cover? I removed the two bolts, but it still wouldn't come off! It wiggled a little bit but thats all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I just remove the top timing cover? I removed the two bolts, but it still wouldn't come off! It wiggled a little bit but thats all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Theres a lip thats part of the valve cover that holds it on. You have to loosen/take off your valve cover and itll come off.

 

Ya, I noticed that. Do I need to replace the valve cover gasket if I remove the valve cover? I heard that if you take it off, you need to replace the gasket.

 

as long as it stays sealed when you put it back on and its not falling apart you should be fine. or just replace it while you got it off anyway

 

If it's the original valvecover gasket, I'd go ahead and replace it. But usually they seal just fine with multiple removals.