NEED INFO ON ADVANCED CRX SUSPENSION
I want to rebuild the entire suspension but Im still learning and not all these parts are easy to find.
I want upper and lower control arms in the front but cant seem to find anything aftermarket. Skunk 2 makesupper but dont see anything for crx. Also why can I only find aftermarket rear control arms and not front?
I want everything new and best quality around. What are my options?
what about the bushing kits? do I need those? If I replace all the factory components wont they already have good bushings? are these kits for stock replacement use only?
What about coilovers? Im leaning toward tein ss coilovers but all my other components are red and I dont want my suspension to look like a ******* christmas tree? What about omnipower or skunk 2? how to they compare? any other suggestions would be great
I want upper and lower control arms in the front but cant seem to find anything aftermarket. Skunk 2 makesupper but dont see anything for crx. Also why can I only find aftermarket rear control arms and not front?
I want everything new and best quality around. What are my options?
what about the bushing kits? do I need those? If I replace all the factory components wont they already have good bushings? are these kits for stock replacement use only?
What about coilovers? Im leaning toward tein ss coilovers but all my other components are red and I dont want my suspension to look like a ******* christmas tree? What about omnipower or skunk 2? how to they compare? any other suggestions would be great
It sounds like you havn't really done too much research.
The absolout best quality will always be new OEM suspension arms. Aftermarket arms are always more expensive, and the materials are questionable. The bushing quality will always be better in a OEM rubber bushing, and the geometry (especially sway-bar attachments) is always correct. "Function 7" is about the best aftermarket suspension arm on the market, and I still wouldn't want to drop $200 on a pair of LCAs (especially with poly bushings)...
camber kits are a waste of money if your not trying to dial-in your camber settings for a race car.
I doubt you will agree with any of this, since most people want the blinging suspension stuff. Thats why it sells so well (plus there is a large profit margin)...
The best quality "coil-overs" (dollar for dollar) will always be Koni sports (yellows) with ground-control sleeves. These offer the largest range of adjustment, choice of any spring rate Eibach makes, and a lifetime warranty to boot.
The absolout best quality will always be new OEM suspension arms. Aftermarket arms are always more expensive, and the materials are questionable. The bushing quality will always be better in a OEM rubber bushing, and the geometry (especially sway-bar attachments) is always correct. "Function 7" is about the best aftermarket suspension arm on the market, and I still wouldn't want to drop $200 on a pair of LCAs (especially with poly bushings)...
camber kits are a waste of money if your not trying to dial-in your camber settings for a race car.
I doubt you will agree with any of this, since most people want the blinging suspension stuff. Thats why it sells so well (plus there is a large profit margin)...
The best quality "coil-overs" (dollar for dollar) will always be Koni sports (yellows) with ground-control sleeves. These offer the largest range of adjustment, choice of any spring rate Eibach makes, and a lifetime warranty to boot.
it really depends on what you're after, do you want a stock ride or do you want performance, poly bushings are an excelent investment if you want a kick *** suspension, don't worry about a different lca, just press out your old bushings
I want it to feel as close to stock but still be low. I already have the lca for rear- anyone know if I can get them for the front?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRay13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it really depends on what you're after, do you want a stock ride or do you want performance, poly bushings are an excelent investment if you want a kick *** suspension, don't worry about a different lca, just press out your old bushings</TD></TR></TABLE>
With poly bushings your not supposed to "press" out the old rubber bushing. You are actually supposed to burn out the old rubber & press the new bushing into the old bushings sleeve (which stays behind after the melt down). Otherwise your poly bushings will flop around in hole providing you with less than adequite handling properties.
What exactly does "kick ***" mean anyways. It's all relative to what your looking for. A poly bushing will never out-last a properly installed OEM rubber bushing. The OEM bushing will never squeek either (unless it's ripped). Mugen OEM style "hard rubber" is the best way to go if you want serious performance, but it's all useless on a street car. Your money could be better spent on sway-bars, tires or brakes. All of those things will help your car handle way better than bushings (unless your original bushings are shot
)...
With poly bushings your not supposed to "press" out the old rubber bushing. You are actually supposed to burn out the old rubber & press the new bushing into the old bushings sleeve (which stays behind after the melt down). Otherwise your poly bushings will flop around in hole providing you with less than adequite handling properties.
What exactly does "kick ***" mean anyways. It's all relative to what your looking for. A poly bushing will never out-last a properly installed OEM rubber bushing. The OEM bushing will never squeek either (unless it's ripped). Mugen OEM style "hard rubber" is the best way to go if you want serious performance, but it's all useless on a street car. Your money could be better spent on sway-bars, tires or brakes. All of those things will help your car handle way better than bushings (unless your original bushings are shot
)...
only the trailing arm bushing keeps the old oem bushing sleeve when using poly bushings. all regular bushings you have to remove the sleeve. its best to press em out if you can, but burning them out and cutting the sleeve is doable.
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I replaced every single bushing on my car with polyurethane, the oem rubber bushings were hardend, cracked and deteiorating, there were in a shape that polyurethane could never turn into. I don't think I can discribe the term "kick ***" for you, you just have to drive my car to understand. I've been using the poly for the last 10k miles. I took apart a control arm just to see what the bushing looked like, it looked just like it did when i took it out of the box. There's no slop when the bushing is in, I would recomend poly to anyone, best bang for your buck.
are they noisy?- I have aftermarket upper front control arms on my civic and they are so noisy. Anyone else have this problem?
no it's not bad at all, I'll hear the lower control arm in the rear once in awhile, usually when it's really cold out (-10 today). The only poly bushing that makes a lot of noise are the bushings for the sway bars because it's always rotating. You can always use athletic tape on the sway bar to fix that though.
i got poly on almost all my bushing except for real trailing arm bushing.. that one i think is better OEM..
id have to agree with OEM bars are the best bet.
note: if you plan on installling the poly kit yourself, your in for a ******* job and a half.
i found the quickest way to get most out is this. heat up the center sleeve, grab and twist it with a pipe wrench, pull it out. then insert a nice sawzall blade and hack the rubber and the metal sleeve. then bang it out with an air chisel.
gl
id have to agree with OEM bars are the best bet.
note: if you plan on installling the poly kit yourself, your in for a ******* job and a half.
i found the quickest way to get most out is this. heat up the center sleeve, grab and twist it with a pipe wrench, pull it out. then insert a nice sawzall blade and hack the rubber and the metal sleeve. then bang it out with an air chisel.gl
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