I have a B20B and am currenlty replacing the pistons and rods the the high compression sort. My current setup includes DC sport 4-1 header, GReddy SP2 exhaust, MSD SCI Ingnition and MSD Distributor Capw/ wires along w/ Blaster SS coil Pack, SKunk2 Adjustable Cam Gears, APEX'i SAFC II, and an Edelbrock Performer Wet Nitrous kit complete with Progressive controller. I have currently decided what direction I want to take my car. I am replacing the factory pistons with CP 11:1 matted to eagle rods, ARP 3/8 rod bearings, NuFormz Blockguard, ARP head studs, upgrading to direct port, and chipping the ECU with CROME. I want to go with the ITB setup and am wondering if anyone has directions on the TPS situation? I have seen the directions at Homemadeturbo.com but I need someone with firsthand experience to help me. As good as the directions are at Homemadeturbo.com they don't really go indepth on that aspect. Also I need to know if I should get GSXR1300 or 1000 Throttle Bodies?

 

You can use the suzuki tps. Crome has a tps voltage scalar which is formatted into the ITB tools plugin in Crome. You need to get the closed and full throttle voltage from the suzuki tps and you will plug those numbers into the respective area when you open itb tools.

personally, i would get a better header before i did itb's. But thats just me.

 

for the 2liter I wouldn't go smaller that the 1300. 98vtec is right, crome will take care of your tps voltage problems. Also another source for the itbs would be off of a 4ag toyota motor

 

Yeah I am sourcing a Mugen Header but honestly the more I have been reading about them the more I want an Edelbrock header. Thanks for the info guys but I have one more question for you...do I need to check the voltage at closed and open on the suzuki TPS while its attached to a bike?

 

no, you have to splice the suzuki harness into the honda harness. Once you do that, you check the voltage. Basically, you dont setup crome until you have completely installed them on the car and spliced the suzuki harness into the honda harness. You check the voltage after the harnesses have been spliced.

 

you should pick these up:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1

i'm not advertising in any way, but it sounds like it will save you quite a bit of work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should pick these up:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1

i'm not advertising in any way, but it sounds like it will save you quite a bit of work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are WAY too small for a 2.0L motor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topendtuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I am sourcing a Mugen Header but honestly the more I have been reading about them the more I want an Edelbrock header. Thanks for the info guys but I have one more question for you...do I need to check the voltage at closed and open on the suzuki TPS while its attached to a bike?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those header's are not meant for a 2.0L. Consider a DTR 2.0L, SMS 2.0L, HyTech 2.0L...otherwise its not worth spending the money IMHO.

As for the voltage question, once everything is wired up on the car, you check the voltage, enter in the closed/WOT values in Crome, and start 'er up.

 

see now everyone talks about velocity and runner length and this and that, and then i get stunned by more info.

but back on topic. these 43mm would be too small for his 2.0?

 

yea, go with 46mm hayabusa throttles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are WAY too small for a 2.0L motor.

Those header's are not meant for a 2.0L. Consider a DTR 2.0L, SMS 2.0L, HyTech 2.0L...otherwise its not worth spending the money IMHO.

As for the voltage question, once everything is wired up on the car, you check the voltage, enter in the closed/WOT values in Crome, and start 'er up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

rmf...cough cough

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should pick these up:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1

i'm not advertising in any way, but it sounds like it will save you quite a bit of work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for a perfect example of a poorly made DIY ITB.

 

its just the easiest and cheapest way.

 

my 42mm are too small for the f20b
they taper off around 7700

 

I didn't think they looked that bad for homemade...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my 42mm are too small for the f20b
they taper off around 7700
</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you tried shorter runners or stacks?

 

No and yes I saw that auction besides being too small for the B20B, they are CBR ITB's they are harder to space out than suzukis so I would have to create angled runners that would rob me of a pretty good amount of power. But thank you for the input.

 

you cant space them out...thats the problem with them.

 

i did shorten the runners . and it helped abit but not enough.

ill be goign to twm 52mm this go around and some rmf goodness

 

Well I won a set of GSXR1300 Throttle bodies and it looks as if there will be no modification to them because they line up flawlessly with the OEM LS manifold I clipped off. I do need to know what functions CROME comes equiped with and how it compares, in tuneablility, to Hondata. I looked at the AEM EMS setup but it seems to be set up primarily for Boost and it seems like it would be a waste to buy something with all of those functions and only use a third of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topendtuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I do need to know what functions CROME comes equiped with and how it compares, in tuneablility, to Hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All your questions, and more, can be found here:

http://www.pgmfi.org

Once you register, there is a dedicated forum just for Crome, with FAQ's written by the creator and many many people who are familiar with how to tune and use Crome effectively.

 

I have made a change to my initial setup to my B20 I will now be running JE 11.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs and 3/8 rod bolts, P75 head with port and polish, 5-Angle vavle job, shaved .20 th, Titanium vavle springs and retainers, Crower Stage 3 cams, SKunk2 adjustable Cam Gears, DC sport 4-1 header, Custom Test pipe, GReddy SP2 Cat-Back exhaust, GSXR1300 throttle bodies(ITB), Edelbrock Direct Port Nitrous Kit w/ digital Progressive controller, MSD SCI w/ blaster SS coil pack, H22A Fuel injectors, AEM fuel rail, B&M fuel pressure regulator, YS1 LSD B16 Tranny, Fidanza 7.5 Ultra lite flywheel, ACT 4 puck clutch, and tuned with CROME and SAFC II. How does it sound? I hope I don't catch too much hell for being nonVTEC. No offense to anyone on here but Ya'll seem to be kinda partial to VTEC. We are all in the same family here, HONDA, and we all share a common addvesary...Domestics and the Meatheads who drive them. Believe me I have all of the respect in the world for you guys who tune up the VTEC and run reliably its just not for me. I have ridden in an EF w/ a B16 w/ CTR cams...very nice but it popped, oh and a turboed GSR...also very nice but it too popped. both were dyno tuned. I have also ridden in a turboed LS...very nice and still running daily 2 years later. VTEC is the greatest kick in the *** when your driving it just seems too fickle to me and a little picky to what mods it will allow. Please feel fre to comment on this. We non-ee's can all get along so group hug in the shower tonight...no...well I will settle for a hug and a pat on the ***. LOL

 

your header is going to kill your power.

 

yeah I know but I am having trouble finding a Hytech

 

there are many other headers you can get:

RMF - http://www.importpowerhouse.com / RMFheaders@msn.com
SMSP - http://www.sms-products.com
Rage - http://www.rageimports.com
DTR - http://www.dtr-fab.com
Hytech - http://www.hytechexhaust.com

and others

 

The conventional Im and Tb could have done the trick if they were matched to the engine correctly. To each their own, good luck with this project be sure to post some timeslips/dyno sheets when you get them.