Since my 95 accord already has a stock resister box, do I need to do anyhting special to use Black Top 450cc dsm injectors? Haven't tested the impedence on the stockers yet but I would be willing to bet that they are saturated/low impedence like the rest of the obd1 honda injectors. Anyone have a quick answer?

Also, what exact lower seals do I need to get and where do I get them from. I have heard all kinds of conflicting information about using stock ones and boring them, using modified dsm ones, to using bored out aftermarket ones to get nozzle depth the same as a stock honda injector.

 

450's will drop in without any other wiring or anything special... you just need to bore out the stock seals to make them fit in the intake manifold (I doubled up the stock seals to make them the right height and bored them).

I have had no issues with them once I did this.

Some people say you can get the taller seals in the injector seal kits at the parts store but I had limited luck with that so I just used stockers I have laying around.

 

you didn't have to modify the stock accord injector clips for that little tab in the black top connectors? i think those kits are like 8 bux/kit and are only one injector per kit so there's no way im gonna spend 32 bux on spacers. i dunno what i'm gonna do. what map are you running on your setup? im still looking for a decent base map.

 

I did not have to modify the stock injector clips at all and I also run the black tops.

I would just bore your stock seals and if you dont have any extra around to double up, then I would just run to a junkyard were you pull the parts and get somemore of them (it is only 1 dollar to get in to those around here). Around here they dont even care about little stuff like that... you can get it for free.

I am running on a tuned map for my setup... you probably would not want to run mine (or anyone elses to be safe, who knows what you will get), I have an oddball setup. If you want a basemap contact your local tuner that you plan to go to and ask him if he will make you one good enough to get it to him (I would NOT boost on a basemap btw, it would suck to do all that work and smoke the motor).

edit: BTW what fuel management are running?

 

I am running uberdata right now. there is no dyno in town and the closest one is over 2 hours away. kinda sucks. yardy in miami has the same motor and setup as me and sent me his partially tuned map, which i am going to use as a base. i have a wideband o2 in the car right now and i can datalog, so i can tune, i just dont want to do it on the street.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">450's will drop in without any other wiring or anything special... you just need to bore out the stock seals to make them fit in the intake manifold (I doubled up the stock seals to make them the right height and bored them).

I have had no issues with them once I did this.

Some people say you can get the taller seals in the injector seal kits at the parts store but I had limited luck with that so I just used stockers I have laying around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's all this talk about 'doubling up' on the seals? Everything I have read until now has not mentioned this being necessary. I too will be using black tops in my Accord.

 

most people i have talked to have said to just reuse the stock seals, and bore them out. that was all the civic guys. lately though others have talked about getting longer seals or doubling up the oem ones, something about the depth the pintle cap is in the manni.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">450's will drop in without any other wiring or anything special... you just need to bore out the stock seals to make them fit in the intake manifold (I doubled up the stock seals to make them the right height and bored them).

I have had no issues with them once I did this.

Some people say you can get the taller seals in the injector seal kits at the parts store but I had limited luck with that so I just used stockers I have laying around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont even have to read another post in this thread. This is 110% on point. We just did an accord with Precision 680s and only the o rings needed to dremelled. Cant see the 450s needing it AT ALL.

 

got pm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superorb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am running uberdata right now. there is no dyno in town and the closest one is over 2 hours away. kinda sucks. yardy in miami has the same motor and setup as me and sent me his partially tuned map, which i am going to use as a base. i have a wideband o2 in the car right now and i can datalog, so i can tune, i just dont want to do it on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superorb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am running uberdata right now. there is no dyno in town and the closest one is over 2 hours away. kinda sucks. yardy in miami has the same motor and setup as me and sent me his partially tuned map, which i am going to use as a base. i have a wideband o2 in the car right now and i can datalog, so i can tune, i just dont want to do it on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I may have the original map we used on the accord. I will see if I can dig it up.

 

sweet, what setup/motor was used on the accord you did?

 

Drag Gen 2 Kit..
F22 Single Cam non vtec.
Precision 680s
S200B

Basemap - by afp.
final tune done by richie @ phillydynoworks.

Work was done by rick and joe @ afp

239HP - 256ft lbs of torque. 2.25 inch exhaust. 9psi..

 

those are some pretty impressive numbers for a non vtec single cam on only 9 pounds.. im sure that would perform better with a larger exhaust as well.

 

Power tapered off after 4600 rpms....

 

Everything that twkdCD595 said is correct.... One thing to make sure to do is to bore out the seals. I didn't do that at first and I tore up 2 of the seals cause there was so much pressure on them from the injectors being forced to be in there. You don't even have to double up. Thats what I did and it ran completely fine. It ran great... here is the pic of the setup...

I made roughly 255-260HP and some massive torque.... This was at 10psi...

 

hey dune who did your ic piping? i did mine with a crappy flux core mig and it came out like CRAP, i dont wanna put it on the car the way it is.

what sized ic piping is everyone using on their accords, and what kind/where was it made?

 

265 Hp 273 TQ on crome at 10-11 PSI...If you need a crome basemap let me know.

Stock f22b1
T3/04e 57 trim stage 3 48/50 AR
Mini Tubular LSD mani
DSM 450 blacktops
2.5"-3" DP

And I dindnt have to modify my stock clips either.... as far as the o ring deal, ya just open em up a bit.

Enjoy!!!

People trip when they get roasted by Honda's Chevelle!!!!!

 

i would LOVE a copy of the map you use. is it tuned at all, or just a rough map. where'd you get that manni made, how are the clearances? i've got a log manni from spoolin-performance and mine's just generic log style, nothing special.

 

you gots pm.

spoolins nice ****... I was gonna go with Phil too, but decided on LSD Motorsports... Not sorry one bit!!! PLENTY of room for 3" DP (although i run 2.5 till under the pan for ground clearance issues). Oh ya; my map is tuned for 10 psi on a dynojet at intec racing. 12.4 AF r... But you should really hve ye sht tuned....still

Twkdcd595s car is a monster too!

We can chat on the phone, it would be much more time efficient. My dime...

Word???


Peace and greace man,

Spike

 

too bad you're all the way on the other side of the world... from WA to FL, can't get much farther than that.i want a 3" but ground clearance owns me. gonna go with a 2.5" from turbo to 3" cat back piping, minus the cat :D

 

Right.... My kittys gone too 2.5 " DP flared out to 3 all the way out...no resonator, jus a Magnaflow 5X8 inch 3" in/out....sounds ****** great too!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdune16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everything that twkdCD595 said is correct.... One thing to make sure to do is to bore out the seals. I didn't do that at first and I tore up 2 of the seals cause there was so much pressure on them from the injectors being forced to be in there. You don't even have to double up. Thats what I did and it ran completely fine. It ran great... here is the pic of the setup...

I made roughly 255-260HP and some massive torque.... This was at 10psi...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you ever actually dyno your car, or are these still "rough guess #'s"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you ever actually dyno your car, or are these still "rough guess #'s"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those were the words of the tuner's mouth when it was street tuned... So I'm sure he's correct cause there is only one shop that does mainly imports and he has done about all of them. So I would trust him.

 

cool.. what size intercooler piping did everyone use, and what type? my crappy mig welds look like crap on aluminized steel...

 

2.5 " polished aluminum here... You could survive with 2.25 too, but IN MY OPINION...I would go aluminum, less oxidation tendency, lighter, better heat dissapation too!!!

Im hittin ya up now.

Spike