Putting CP 9:1 with Eagle H-Beams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93c1sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Putting CP 9:1 with Eagle H-Beams




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all that and its probably a stolen block, whatta shame

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

all that and its probably a stolen block, whatta shame</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you say that?

Also, to the original poster, did you buy that block from Kou?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why do you say that?

Also, to the original poster, did you buy that block from Kou?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hes saying that becuase its missing hte vin

 

stolen or not, you need to wipe that thing down with wd40 now!

 

he is probably saying its stolen because the vin is broken off

 

and for the record i will always remove the vins because if the car to which the block came from gets stolen down the road then your block becomes stolen so who cars just take them off

 

i always remove my vins

 

Is it me, or are the main caps installed backwards on that block?

 

What's your setup going to consist of?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it me, or are the main caps installed backwards on that block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes they are ,

 

yes they're backwards, I have not installed anything yet obviously i just set them in there for now. My setup consists of:

Already done to the car
B18C1 darton sleeves 84mm, CP 9:1 pistons, eagle h-beams rods, arp head studs and rod bolts, cometic head gasket
B16 tranny with obx lsd
B16A2 head with
skunk2 valve springs and retainers
skunk2 adjustable cam gears
skunk2 intake manifold, hondata intake manifold gasket
3 angle valve job
skunk2 cat-back exhaust
skunk2 stage 1 cams
AEM fuel rail and pressure regulator

Turbo Parts I'm ordering soon:
Precision SC-61 not sure what A/R to go with yet
Precision fmic (600hp)
CRP equal length ramhorn manifold
drag 3" downpipe
tial 38mm wastegate
greddy type s bov
walbro fuel pump
rc or precision injectors thinking 880's
greddy turbo timer
aem wideband



Modified by 93c1sol at 2:22 PM 2/15/2006

 

good luck on the build!

 

thank you, hope to be done by mid-april, this is my first time going turbo, plan on just towing it straight to the dyno before starting it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it me, or are the main caps installed backwards on that block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Know That's detail...

Good looking out EARL....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93c1sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you, hope to be done by mid-april, this is my first time going turbo, plan on just towing it straight to the dyno before starting it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a sweet setup! Who's going to tune it and what engine management?

 

how much was it 2 get the sleeves done, i understand tht u are in america and i am in uk but jst look for price comparison. also how do you guys clean your block (outside) sandblast? .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it me, or are the main caps installed backwards on that block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

#5 should be at the oil pump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onlinehost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and for the record i will always remove the vins because if the car to which the block came from gets stolen down the road then your block becomes stolen so who cares just take them off</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've always wondered about that^^^. I wonder if anyone has ever gotten popped for something like that. Legit block but, no paper work/sales receipt and then car is stolen later down the road w/o them knowing and they get in trouble for it.

btw, you can still look up the legitimacy of a block by the block code(under B18c1 stamp) it is linked to ea. individual car that is sold. I've done this on 2 seperate occasions.

Phil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 11psiTurboSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sounds like a sweet setup! Who's going to tune it and what engine management?</TD></TR></TABLE>

planning on shane from elite-auto sport

 

The arrows are pointed the wrong way, and the main girdle is flip-flopped. The V's should face the intake side of the block. I would remove teh girdle from the 3 center main caps and check the orientation of the arrows.

I hope the direction of the caps doesn't affect the machining of the main caps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93c1sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you, hope to be done by mid-april, this is my first time going turbo, plan on just towing it straight to the dyno before starting it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't there a better way to do this? Cause usually the first time ya start up a car on a build something is forgotten. Ya don't wanna be sitting at a shop for 8 hours working out kinks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quik sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Isn't there a better way to do this? Cause usually the first time ya start up a car on a build something is forgotten. Ya don't wanna be sitting at a shop for 8 hours working out kinks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to trust myself with everything pretty much. I was planning on going turbo last year with my build but didn't have enough money at the time. I got another block this year got that sleeved and then i'm going to pull the motor out and swap the blocks. Last year I pulled the motor out 2 times in like 2 weeks with different problems, I spent soooo many hours on that car i know it like the back of my hand. The only thing i'm worried about is maybe a coolant line leaking or a some oil line which can be fixed very easily. I don't want to be running rich right off the bat and wash the rings out or be running to lean. I spent ALOT of money on this car and i don't want to risk anything getting ruined.

 

well thats good, I wish ya the best of luck with it. I just was curious cause I went to a dyno tune session a couple of weekends ago and there was a guy with a built 4g63 in his evo VIII and he ended up taking up the whole day cause he put everything in wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quik sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well thats good, I wish ya the best of luck with it. I just was curious cause I went to a dyno tune session a couple of weekends ago and there was a guy with a built 4g63 in his evo VIII and he ended up taking up the whole day cause he put everything in wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what's done to your car under the hood? what did you do for time's at the dyno?