Guys, I have a weird problem here. I turn my key to the on position and sometimes you hear the fuel pump, and sometimes you hear the main relay clicking and the check engine light is flickering very fast. When I go to start the car, it cranks, but then the CEL starts flickering very fast again and the main relay just keeps clicking and the car will not start......

 

check your fuse panel under your dash to make sure it's grounded to the dash support properly. i took out my heater core and tried to start my car without the fuse box grounded and the main relay kept clicking

 

The 2 grounds, one for the main harness, and the other for the dashboard harness, are both fine. Could this mean the main relay is going bad?

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16aSir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 2 grounds, one for the main harness, and the other for the dashboard harness, are both fine. Could this mean the main relay is going bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes definitely if you haven't replaced the main relay in a ~15 year old car do it!

 

Well I bought a new one a few months ago and I know it worked a week ago because I was using it. I still have my old one which I know works so I could try that, but it still doesn't make a whole lot of sense. How could my main relay go bad after 3 months?

 

Could be a power supply problem then. Check your fuses that feed the Main relay. I believe the hazard and fuel pump fuse are 2 of them for sure, but make sure by using your manual. I have seen the fuse block not make good contact after someone tried the old plug a wire in behind the fuse trick for accesory wiring (raido, keyless entry, alarm systems etc.) this spreads the fuse contacts out and creates a similar situation as what you are discribing. Turn your key to the run position and start jiggling the fuses and see if you get your CEL to flicker or the main relay to click like you discribed. You may need some help with the hazard fuse as that should be under the hood (unless you have freakishly long arms)

 

I have checked just about every fuse and none of them are blown. I have never actually ran my car without the hazard fuse in place so I don't think that is it. I was not aware that there was a fuel pump fuse.

 

They would not be blown only making poor contact into the fuse panel.

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...0.pdf

Fuse number 37 in the under hood panel

Fuse number 14 in the under dash panel

 

what about your wire to the fuse box that was going in and out for me have someone move it while starting it?

 

Did you do a swap or something? Or just all the sudden?

 

my car will sometimes do the same thing, i go to turn the key and it clicks and then nothing happends the car doesn't even start. it does this sometimes and when it does i've just held the key and let in and out on the clutch a slite bit real fast and then the car turns over and starts. isn't there some kind of switch on the clutch when you push it in it lets you start the car?


Isaac-

 

Yes, there is a clutch switch however when the clutch is not depressed the car will not crank, so that cannot be the problem. I have a B16a in a CRX and I have never had this problem before. You guys ask me about the wire going into the fuse box........Not to be rude, but here are like 60 wires going into the fuse box. Is there a ground wire coming directly from the fuse box?

 

check thermostat ground.

 

Will do, and I will try another main relay when I get home from work....I will keep you guys posted. Thank you for your help thus far.

 

ya check all wires/grounds to do w/ the main relay. even look at the ignition harness to make sure no wires popped out. make sure resistor box wires are all plugged in (if applicable) and the resistor box gnd is attached. check starter signal wire, and all other wires leading to/from the starter. (carefully, live voltage!).

 

friend had the same problem did u do any wiring to the engine? my friends problem was the ground wire on the thermostat housing..

 

I lost spark 3 weeks after I paid this moron to upgrade my wiring system to obd-I. I then could not reconnect the ecu wires he cut and had to buy a brand new main wire harness. (650$ from honda) I installed it as well as an obd-0 to obd-I conversion harness with the pigtail for the additional wires(o2, vtec pressure, vtec solenoid, knock sensor, iab(not applicable to my motor), and the service check) The car ran for a week until I got a code 10 and a code 1. I replaced my o2 sensor and my IAT and that is when this particular problem started happening. Weird ****.

 

The thermostat ground bolt is kind of stripped and seemed to be allowing the ground wire there to wiggle, causing the problem. Upon adding a couple washers, and snugging it down, the problem went away. Thanx guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check thermostat ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>


where would that be, i wanna take a look at mine Just to be sure.

Isaac-

 

If you have a B16, the thermostat housing is practically under the distributor. A big ugly looking thing with radiator hoses going into it. There will be the engine harness ground wire attached to the top of it with a 10mm bolt and usually on B16s there is a fan switch(2 wire connector) where a plugin goes in the side of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16aSir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a B16, the thermostat housing is practically under the distributor. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i have a D16Y8 in my 90 Si hatch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16aSir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thermostat ground bolt is kind of stripped and seemed to be allowing the ground wire there to wiggle, causing the problem. Upon adding a couple washers, and snugging it down, the problem went away. Thanx guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup.. reason = this is the ground location for the ecu and it's sensors.

 

so where would it be on my D16Y8?

 

Check all grounds, even the rear interior harness ground, as this is where you fuel pump earths to. If your main relay is clicking, that means it is still good.